95 chevy pick up does not get to 195 operating temp?

Just a shot in the dark...

EGR valve leak will drop Idle temps thru the floor.

However,,it's USUALLY accompanied by some running/idle quality issues.

Another thing,,,

Partial internal blockage of Radiator.

Crossflow radiators stop-up from Bottom Up,,,

This has the effect of "Shortening" the Radiator's Height,,

But it Also Repositions the CENTER of the Radiator Core in relation to Fan Clutch's thermal sensor.

Result is,,,

and engine begins to come up to Operating temp,,

You get an unusual concentration of heat,,,so to speak.

The airflow across the rad core makes the Fan Clutch THINK it's hotter than it actually is.

So,,Fan Clutch engages into full cooling mode while engine is still actually cold.

You should be able to Hear/Feel if Fan Cluch is engaged,,and fan is roaring hard & pushing a bunch of air.

Switch engine OFF,,,and FEEL how much resistance there is to turn the fan blades.

At 160's it oughta darn near be free-wheeling.

You can sorta "X-Ray" your radiator and get a rough idea of any internal blockage pattern.

-Run it till it's hot,,,

Spray radiator with a hose.

Use a Good Light to see where the Water Evaporates immediately versus any areas of the Fins where it Stays Wet.

The HOT places which have good coolant flow will Dry near Instantly,,,

Any "Cold Places " where Coolant is blocked from flowing will remain wet.

Partial Blockage on anything 5~7 yrs old or more is almost universal.

But radiators are Big enough to accomodate a lot of blockage.

USUALLY a clogged up radiator will give off Too Little Heat,,

causing Fan Clutch to remain OFF.

So engine Overheats from Fan not engaging.

Which is all OPPOSITE of your situation.

But OCCASIONALLY,,,,

Clogged Lower Tubes raise to Flow Higher in the Core.

And it's the "Hottest" Water returned from engine.

Instead of getting Dispersed thru entire core and losing a bit of heat before getting to Fan Clutch area....

More of it goes more directly thru the tubes nearer the Clutch.

Makes a concentrated Hot Spot which tricks fan into engaging.

Radiator then returns Overly cool water to engine.

It happens,,,but it's RARE,,and it's TRICKY to determine.

Try measuring Temp on FAN CLUTCH after shutting down,,,,

compared to Lower Corner of radiator on the side Opposite of water inlet.

Or,even easier/simpler,,

Block Radiator with a piece of Cardboard.

Try to put it between Fan & Radiator,,,,and not just in Front of Radiator....to more fully Isolate fan's airflow .

CAREFULLY & SECURELY(sorry,,just HAD to say that reminder:)

See what idle temps ya get with "No Airflow"...

which is more like Normal Conditions until full temp is reached.

One other thing,,,and it probably doesnt apply here....

"Heavy Duty" and "Extra Cooling" Fan Clutchs engage Very early in temp scale.

They're rated in terms of "Percentage of Drive Rotation"

They'll spin much closer to actual INPUT RPM ,,,rather than slipping more and running far Underspeed like "standard" fan clutches do.

None of the above may be any use whatsoever,,,but when ya run outa Normal Things to troubleshoot,,,,it's just a couple ideas you may wanna check out.

When COOLING TOO WELL gets beyond simply "Stuck Open Thermostat" problems,,,picken's get pretty slim.

Another Not-Likely-but Possible,,,

a Leaky Heater Valve can also shed a buncha heat thru heater core and lengthen Warm-Up cycle

But Eventually it should warm up.

And you'd feel heat from vents/dash even if blower wasnt on

Good Luck with it

This is not really an answer, but the laser temp check will not help you. The operating temp is the temp of the coolant in the engine, not the outside of the engine or the coolant in the radiator. You may already be at the correct temp.

the electrical powered temperature sensor is only that. It does not administration temperature. It reads it. in case you probably did no longer installation an AC-Delco 195 degree thermostat, whilst become the final time your cooling device become drained, flushed and wiped clean with GM one section powered acid cooling device cleanser. If all people has ever dumped low fee keep antifreeze that did no longer say Dexcool on the bottle you are able to wager that finally the cooling device will plug up. Any GM broking will clarify a similar issue. The heater-center and radiator stands out as the 1st to plug. you need to get purchase with flushing the heater center the two instructions numerous cases to confirm what flushes out.

recheck thermostat in hot water with candy thermometer just cause new dosent mean good. should crack at 195 full open a little higher, hope this helps, cause thats the only thing it could be.

and you want it hotter why.... is the heater not working? and just becasue its new dont mean its working right sometimes they are bad... if everything is working like the heater and its not running hot id leave it... if its not getting warm the heater then maybe you need to replace again or check it out see if its not upside down maybe