Pet Gecko:?

I have a pet gecko and this is a sheet that I use to take care of mine

Leopard Gecko Housing:

A male Leopard Gecko should never be housed in the same cage as another male leopard gecko because they will fight and possibly kill one another. A male can be housed with several females without any problems. I do not advise housing leopard geckos in the same cage with any other reptiles. A single Leopard Gecko can be kept in a ten gallon tank. For a male and a few females a twenty gallon tank or larger should be used. The cage should have a screen lid on top of it to prevent any escapes. Leopard geckos need places to hide and sleep during the day so you must provide a couple of hiding spots. They need a warm hiding spot and a cold humid hiding spot. Just put one hide box on the side with the heat light and put the humid hide box on the side that does not have the heat light. For the humid hide box, put moist peat moss or moist sphagnum moss inside a hide box. You can make your own humid hide box from a small plastic shoebox. Cut a hole in one end of the box and place moist moss inside it. The humid box should be cleaned out every week and remoistened. A humid hide box is needed so that the gecko can go in it when it needs to shed. The humidity helps the old skin come off.

Substrate:

There is an abundance of products on the market that claim to be safe substrates. Most however are not safe to use. A substrate is what you put on the bottom of the cage for the lizard to walk around on. If a Leopard Gecko ingests any of the substrate accidentally the substrate must pass through the digestive system. Trust me they will ingest substrate, sometimes on purpose. If it does not easily pass through the digestive system compaction will occur. Compaction is an extreme blockage of the digestive tract and is often fatal. Some substrates that I consider unsafe because they can cause compaction are: sand, orchid bark, crushed walnut shells, lizard litter, gravel, aquarium gravel, and coconut fiber. The safest substrate is using paper towels or plain newspaper. For any leopard geckos that are younger than six months I advise using paper towels or plain newspaper until they are at leat six months old. Young Leopard Geckos get compacted very easy even with some of the close to safe products like calcium carbonate substrate. Once the Leopard Gecko is Six months or older you can then switch to Calcium sand. Calcium sand is not fully digested no matter what it claims. The stuff just does not break down completly. Though it does break down some and is much less likly to cause compaction than regular sand. I advise using esu caclium sand because they have finer particles.

Leopard Gecko Heating and Temperature:

The cage should be between 82 to 88 degrees all day and night. There is two basic ways to heat the cage. One is to use a under tank heater like heat tape. The other is to use a red, black, or blue night incandescent heat light. I prefer to use a heat light. For a 10 gallon tank a 60 watt bulb should work depending on room temperature. Place the heat light on one end of the cage. By putting the heat light on one end of the cage it keeps that side warmest and allows the gecko to move to the warmer side with the light or to the colder side without the light as needed to regulate body temperature.

NEVER EVER USE A HOT ROCK, HEAT ROCK, OR ANY SIMILAR PRODUCT. Hot rocks heat unevenly and are notorious for causing terrible thermal burns. Do not buy a hot rock and if you know anyone who uses one, tell them to throw it away.

Leopard Gecko Feeding:

Leopard Geckos will do very well on a diet of mealworms and crickets. I like to provide some variety in feeder insects to create a more balanced diet. Feeder insects I use are silkworms, mealworms, butterworms, and crickets with the legs on one side of the body pulled off. Crickets will bite your geckos while they sleep, these bites are prone to infection, so if you pull off one side of their legs then they cannot move around the cage and get to the gecko and also this prevents the crickets from climbing out of the cage. Gutload feeder insects for at least a day before putting them in with the gecko. Feed geckos insects that are not larger than the width of the head of the gecko.

Adults can be fed pinky mice, and superworms, though I advise only feeding a couple superworms at a time.

Leopard Gecko Vitamin/Mineral Supplement:

For young geckos dust the feeder insects every other feeding or place a small feeder dish with supplement in it and some mealworms in the cage. For adults and babies place a shallow dish or a plastic lid in the cage with a teaspoon of calcium powder on it. The gecko will lick the calcium powder as needed. You still need to dust feeder insects every other feeding though with a vitamin supplement for young geckos. Adults use vitamin supplement once a week.

Leopard Gecko Water:

Use a shallow water bowl, fill with water as needed. Remove bowl from cage and clean out weekly.

I have a lease that states no pets is a gecko considered a pet?

Two of the best starter species are crested geckos or leopard geckos.

Here are caresheets on both:

http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title...

http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title...

you didn't say what gecko some have very different requirements, look into leopard geckos, african fat tailed geckos, crestd geckos, and golden geckos.