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how are waves / swells formed in the ocean
My daughter asked me this - tried to come up with something like
wind, pressure systems - but the uniformity of the waves and swells when we are at the beach or out on the boat - pose an interesting question - had to tell her - "I don't really know - we'll look it up"
2 Answers
- Elizabeth HLv 71 decade agoFavorite Answer
Ocean waves are made by winds blowing over and against the surface of the water, creating a rhythmic pattern. This "rubbing" together of two things (here, wind and water!) producing energy is called friction. When waves move, the water itself is not carried forward, even though it looks like it is. Each particle of water moves in kind of in a circle. The particles are lifted up, carried forward slightly, dropped, and returned to where they started. Waves move forward, but the water does not.
- Anonymous1 decade ago
Waves,swells and tides are created from the gravitational pull from the moon.
