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(max points) replacing multisection can-type filter capacitor?

I have a monophonic push-pull 6V6GT amplifier/preamplifier chasis from the mid 50's that needs some new electrolytics to replace the originals. I've bought caps with acceptable values, but I'm not sure how to install them. There's the stock four-section filter can, which has four tube socket-like leads coming out the bottom. Each of these leads corresponds to a symbol of some sort (square, semi-circle, or triangle,) I think telling me which lead corresponds to which cap in the can. I do believe the set grounds to the filter cap, but beyond that I'm not sure. Point is, I just can't figure out the symbols nor the circuit- my filter cap circuitry looks to be more complex than anything I've seen on the Web! I just need to know roughly how to wire in the new caps below, obeying polarity in building a new pack.

Perhaps there's somebody like a guitar amp tech or radio restorer who can look at my picture and help figure this out. I've included a photo of both my chasis and filter cap. Basically, I'm looking for a more personal bit of help in how to do this to clear up what Web guides don't. I've already soldered in new Mallory polys to replace the paper CDEs, but this just escapes me. I know it's a lot of work to look at my circuit and explain, but it might get me really into the hobby :D

(Chassis top)

http://www.imagecross.com/06/image-hosting-view-04...

(Filter can engravings)

http://www.imagecross.com/06/image-hosting-view-04...

(filter can wiring- Can values go 40-40-40-50, in that order.)

http://www.imagecross.com/06/image-hosting-view-04...

And yes; the amp runs AS-IS with some buzzing and hum, and yes, my multimeter says the caps have no DC voltage on them. There's no schematics available, but if you need it, I can take a shot of the full under-chasiss.

Lastly, I'd like to thank in advance anyone nice enough to reply. If you know a better place to ask this, or just have general advice on how to do this, I'd also appreciate it.

2 Answers

Relevance
  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    No problem, I've used those before.

    I'm having trouble reading it, but it looks like 3 sections of 40 or 50uf at 350 or 400 volts, and one 50uf (can't see that one) at 25 volts.

    The filter looks like a bunch of CRCRC type filter.

    Get 3 40/50uf 450 volt caps and 1 50uf 25v cap and just wire then in. negatives all to ground. Larger uf or larger voltage is OK.

    It might be easier if you just clip off the tabs from the caps, leaving all the wiring intact, and wire the new caps to those points.

    contact me if you need to.

    .

  • Anonymous
    5 years ago

    if it keeps blowing it should give a code as to what is wrong with it,sounds like you have a direct ground somewhere,it can be in the low volt or line voltage area,you said you replaced the blower motor,why?,was there a reason for that,what was the unit doing prior to blowing the fuse,you can buy a reset able 5 amp relay that plugs in where the fuse gos and the 1.5 xtra amps will not hurt the system,it will save alot of money on fuses,check all your low volt wires and make sure there isn't one touching another one or something that will cause it to blow the fuse,is it tripping the breaker or just the fuse?if the fuse its sounds like it is confined to the low volt area,take your ohm meter and start testing all the low volt wires,check the thermostat and behind it where the wires comes through the wall,make sure they aren't touching or you have a broke wire touching another

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