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sarat0
Lv 5
sarat0 asked in PetsHorses · 1 decade ago

horse bits, transitions, speed control?

I have a draftX mare that I'm trying to teach not to lock her neck and turn in when asked to go faster than a walk. Working her in a round pen has helped as have using side reins. But still the problem persists to a lesser degree yes but I am wondering if perhaps a stonger bit than a plain full cheek snaffle will work.

Ideas? I ride her mostly english. We have use of round pen, trails and a large sand jump ring. Her back is evenly wet in the right spots so I dont suspect saddle soreness.

Any other tips for keeping her straight and responsive? I have been pondering a hackmore but not I'm not sure...

During the hot part of the summer she was comming along very nicely at the walk/trot but now that its cooling off her moves have gone sluggishly slow and almost unresponsive to leg/feet commands. I am almost reluctant to keep teaching her the canter now that basic trots have become unreliable.

3 Answers

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  • gallop
    Lv 7
    1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    She may be a good candidate for the Dr. Cook bitless bridle. My horses transitioned into it easily and go very well in it. You can look it up online and find extensive information about it if you are interested. As for the rest, I would get her out of the round pen and work her straight, just getting her to stretch out and extend her gaits. Forget the canter until she has good forward impulsion and is responding to your leg and seat cues. On the ground, or in the saddle, I would do lateral flexion exercises, getting her to rotate her neck and bring her nose around to touch her side, or your toe if you are riding. Use gradual lateral pulls and release when she gives her head, until she easily brings her head around in both directions. This softens the poll and will help her to carry her head correctly when you work on collection.

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Good Question.

    FIRST OFF: DO NOT GET A HACKAMORE. This will only make your problems worse.Hackamores prevent a horse from truly going on the bit and having a horse in a frame opens the door to SO MANY THINGS. Without that "door" open you will be confined to w/t/c on straight lines with poor up/down transitions.

    She seems to be dead to your leg and just so you know spurs will make her even more dead to your leg resulting in sharper and sharper spurs and it's a vicious cycle.

    At the walk warm up like this:

    On the long side of the arena do free walks(aka.long rein and her going very forward) then on the short side do slightly shorter reins and keep your leg on her and collect(This can only be done is she is on the bit-so make sure that is established first.)*REMEMBER: Collection takes more leg than rein.

    Also go down the centerline and leg yeild toward the rail(at the walk)...this will HOPEFULLY get her listening to your inside leg.

    *REMEMBER: Lighter aids get her listening to you...at first they may not work so well but...persistance!Lol. It's like when someone whispers(not horse whispers lol)you have to really tune into them to hear what they are saying.This is the same concept.

    Also when you do up transistions keep your rein contact light so she has an "active" up transistion, it's like asking her to collect for a few steps but collect into the next gait(if that makes sense) so she is picking her feet up and doing it activily and not just pulling herself forward(and in! lol) with her forehand.

    ABOVE ALL SHE MUST BE ON THE BIT FOR ANY OF THIS TO BE POSSIBLE.

    *I do not suggest draw reins or side reins. That is the job of a rider and if it's too much for you, you have over mounted and that is not the horses fault.Lol.Best of Luck!

    Source(s): SAMD
  • 5 years ago

    What do you employ for a bit of? It is also too harsh and he is discovered the right way to preclude it by means of hanging his head up and grabbing it. Draw reins or a jogging martingale might most probably panic him if his bit hurts and he can not get away the stress. I might appear right into a softer bit and I might return to enviornment paintings, get a few breaks on him- the form that come from seat and legs, now not from reins. Get a teacher to support you if you want, this may get form of difficult. Next, I might paintings on getting him at the bit and in a body. It's plenty more difficult for a horse to bolt whilst he is acquired well touch and is circular. I might paintings on fundamentals for a bit of, stroll, trot, canter, whoa instantly from all 3, bend, assortment and stress reaction. Check your saddle have compatibility too, as it can be pinching. Also assess your seat and leg function, as good as your higher frame to be certain you don't seem to be being too harsh with any cues which could cause a touchy horse to bolt. I might most commonly appear into his feed and be certain he is not getting any further power than he demands- whether or not or not it's from an excessive amount of grain or alfalfa hay. Finally, I might appear into his paintings agenda and spot if it would use extra regularity or depth. He would possibly simply want extra education to acquire trust in himself, with a view to make him much less spooky. Good good fortune. Bolting horses are not any a laugh and really unsafe. Best get this constant ASAP.

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