How do I winterize my boat?

Randy...you've got three good answers so far but here's some more info.

Before winterizing...change the oil!

You can buy a winterizing tank at Boater's World (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/178050035.htm) or West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servle... and it comes with instructions on what to do. Follow the instructions to the letter.

After winterizing the engine...pop the plug wires and back out the plugs one at a time. Order up some fogging fluid while getting the kit above and spray a shot into the plug hole and replace the plug and repeat 7 more times. Once all are done turn your ignition key for about 2-3 seconds only to spread the fogging fluid up and down the cylendar walls.

As for the head if plumbed drain the water from all lines. You then can either order online (or p/u at an RV dealership) what we endearingly call "pink chit" and pour it into your water holding tank. Run the water again until pink liquid comes out. Do the same for both hot and cold (drain and run) for this will drain water from the hot water tank if you have one and run the winterizing fluid into the hot water tank. On our boat I buy 2 cases and this is enough to winterize all of our water systems (galley, head, aft cabin and cockpit sink). Twelve bottles is what it takes for our 33' cruiser.

Couple all the response you get here and you'll be in good shape!

ADDED NOTE: Mark T gives great step-by-step instructions on how to winterize the boat. His avenue of spraying the fogging fluid into the carb is an alternative to what I suggested of spraying it into the block after backing out the plug. Either is an acceptable practice.

1

Boat Winterize Kit

the motor is still probably in good condition because its not being used in salt water. You gotta drain all the water out of it. +I*n board motors are a pain in the ass.I got a 27' with a 350 v8 single screw wit a saltwater intercooler/for the ethylene glycol cooled motor.

Better you should either get a book or hire a boat guy so you dont miss anything.

Also you MUST treat the gasoline on the boat or the carbuerator /s will be f u c k e d up next year with gunk. It all has to do with the new gasoline on the market.

I use a combination of STARTRON and STABIL. Get a $10 bottle of each. Mix some in the gas,,,,run the motor for 10 minutes so it goes thru the system..

Very easy to do. Get a winterizing kit from West Marine that includes a 5 gallon container with hose attachment, flush-out attachment for the lower unit, and a case of non-tox anti freeze.Get a can of engine fogging spray. Warm up the engine by hooking up the flush out attachment to the lower unit and a garden hose, let it run with the water on for 5 minutes. Do not start it until the garden hose is turned on! Hook up the 5 gallon container to the flush out attachment with the clear hose provided. Fill the container with a/f and place it on the transom. Put the flush out on the lower unit over the water intakes. Open the valve on the 5 gallon container so the a/f flows, it will drip a lot until you start the engine. get the flame arrestor of the engine and start it up. It will take that 5 gallons quickly so act fast. Start shooting the fogging spray into the air intake after 1 gallon of a/f is sucked in. Shoot the spray until the engine dies out if you can, or at least until it smokes a lot. Very important that you do not let the engine run out of the non-tox a/f. It will have enough in it when you see the a/f running out of the exhaust and it does not look diluted, so shut the engine down when you reach that point. spray the engine down with silicone spray to keep it from corroding.

Then you also have to winterize any system that has water in it: fresh water, head, salt water wash down, etc. You should also change the engine oil beforeyou winterize the engine, and the lower unit oil. Don't forget the engine and hull zincs. Put antifreeze in the head and water system and pump through all the faucets until you see the a/f. pump out the holding tank.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto...

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto...

Get a pair of muffs at walmart or similiar and put the muffs over the water intakes on your outdrive. then get a 5 gallon container of rv/marine coolant. put the container on the swim platform so gravity will flow it down into the muffs and start your engine. once coolant starts coming out of the exhaust it should be good to the degree of the coolant. fairly easy to do.

If you have never done it before take it to a pro and have them do it.

Will cost about $200 and it is worth it.

If you goof and crack a block the repair will be in the neighborhood of $5000 to $6000.

It is cheap insurance.