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Any ideas what could cause this ignition problem.?

Ford 390, electronic ignition. It's been running really bad since I let the gas go bad and burnt the starter up. After sitting up for several months I finally fixed the starter and drained the tank. The motor ran rough and felt like it was leaning out (spitting, backfiring and such). I've replaced the carburetor (no change), the fuel pump (no change), plugs, cap and rotor (surprisingly the plugs were tan when in the past they would be black from running rich) again no change. So I got it to idle which was no easy task and started pulling plug wires. # 1 had no change in idle, #2 did, #3 didn't, #4 did and on that way. I have never seen this in a Ford distributor or any other for that matter. Is this in the brain box or distributor? Why would 1,3,5,7 be dead?

4 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Consider a bad intake manifold gasket! these are all the odd numbered cylinders, -- so they are all on the same side of engine! If you have a major vacuum leak of any kind, - this side (that it is on) will be leaking so much air into induction system at idle that these cylinders will be starving out for fuel!

    Of course you put the new "wires" back in on ignition right, -- crossed wires make engine "spit back" through carb! Also crossed wires make no difference in idle when pulled, since they aren't firing right when hooked up either!

    Now with backfiring, I would check to make sure it has not blown any vacuum hoses off, -- air bleeding in at idle may make some plugs not seem to fire (no fuel in cylinder)--! Check your compression, -- possibly you have a valve problem... Also check your intake manifold, -- it could have a leaking gasket! A slight puff of ether (starting fluid) around intake manifold gasket area with engine running should make engine pick up in rpms if it is leaking (as it pulls in ether through leak, and engine ignites it)!

    If it seems to have good power, - after you get up to a certain rpm range -- it is a definite indication of leaks in induction system somewhere! Higer rpms, cause enough gs to be fed in that it overcomes "overt lean" condition! Remember you have a number of vacuum hoses running all around -- including to power brake unit!

    One other thing, -- check to see that those wires have good spark at end of wire, just because they are new does not mean they are good! Modern plug "wires" do not have wire in them, -- they have a carbon ribbon wound around a piece of "thread" this ribbon is easily damaged! It is called a resistance "wire", and actually causes increase in spark intensity at bottom end! you can try putting an old plug on end, and laying on metal surface! Picking up off metal from a ways back -- or with a non conducting item (they shock like "H") if you get too close to plug on end, --- it should throw and additional 1/4-1/2 inch spark -- beyond what is jumping the gap!

    Now about the plugs, -- did you actually check gap on each one individually, -- says "pregapped" on boxes, -- don't believe it!! Could have fell on floor and pounded that gap shut!

    Highly unlikely that you have a bad head gasket, - -but it is remotely possible, -- and it is also possible for a headgasket to leak, without putting water in oil, or oil in water-- or overheating! And I have run across a few in years past! And even more unlikely to leak on all the cylinders on that side!

    So do not neglect to get good compression checks before you start tearing things apart! Good compression tells you that it is "outisde engine" proper! Check everything on outside of engine before tearing anything major apart! -- Or you most likely will waste money!

    Source(s): old mechainc
  • 1 decade ago

    You didn't mention year. Is this a 8 that has coil packs? 4 of them, running two pistons each? If yes, the coil pack that supplies the affected plugs are bad or not firing for some reason. Sounds like it's running on the 2,4, 6, and 8. Check for a ground problem on the input of the coil packs.

  • 1 decade ago

    You didn't say what year it is. going by what you said i would go to the eletrontic control box on the driver side fender wall. If you change it you will need to know the color of the termenal.(this is where you plug the box in at look at color of the plastic in side the box). if you have any promble there that the box with you to the part store with you

  • Aimee
    Lv 4
    5 years ago

    Might be the battery...the key remote has nothing to do with internal ignition

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