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Defects in plywood enough to return it?
I bought half a sheet of 1/2" softwood plywood, finished on one side. It got it cut at the store.
When I get home, I noticed that the wood had a few defects... One of the edges was a tiny bit warped - not really noticeable until you notice the edge isn't flush.
Another one of the corners was very "flakey". I don't know how to describe it, the layers of the plywood are almost flaking apart so it can't be screwed, it just makes the wood split (yes, I drilled pilot holes).
I finished my project, but am really not pleased with it because these defects are obvious, to me anyway. Are these minor flaws enough to have the store replace the piece of wood, or do these little flaws fall under "natural character of wood"?
Thanks for the input! I wouldn't, however, say that these are defects are just "character". The flakiness of the plywood made it impossible to screw it tightly to the other piece of wood, and now it bows outwards.
I got the softwood plywood because it is the only finished plywood they have in 1/2" :\
6 Answers
- Anonymous1 decade agoFavorite Answer
softwood plywood is not great building material in the first place if you bought it because it was cheap you now know why.
If you said Baltic birch plywood then yes they would exchange it because it's guaranteed free of defects splits or voids.
- ?Lv 45 years ago
I would build a rail and stile frame with raised panels constructed from edge glued 3/4" red or white oak. If you do insist on using sheet goods you should us a 3/4" veneered board. Remember plywood is not solid oak all the way through. It is several layers of veneered cores. I would recommend a 7 layer core veneered plywood. You will want a manufactures grade A-1 for your application. If you insist on using the 1/4" (this is usually used as backing for book cases and other forms of furniture not for construction of it) then consider building a rail and stile frame with rabbits cut out for the panels to sit in. Then use a small decorative moulding such as a qurter round, glass bead or screen moulding to hold the panels in place. Potential options could be WM110, WM141, WM 148, or you could get creative and make your own. When you finish the oak make sure you use a pore filler before you top coat. To avoid staining the wood with the filler you can coat it with a sanding sealer first then use the pore filler. Then sand and the pores will be filled and the wood left unstained.
- Max SchnellLv 61 decade ago
The state of imported Asian plywood is very sorry, indeed. I have seen even quite expensive (I'm talking close to $100 a sheet) plywood with voids, flaking laminates, face veneer you can almost read through, glue that delaminates with a mist of moisture, anywhere between 7 and 12 layers in the same piece (let the press take care of it), and stuff that breaks with pressures that are to be expected in use.
So vendors will continue to foist this cr@p on us as long as we buy it and accept it. You've got nothing to loose by trying to return it. If they don't take it, just say you'll never buy this cr@ppy stuff again and walk out. Maybe they will get the message if enough of us do this. For now, I buy only domestic goods.
- dont know muchLv 51 decade ago
I think it is a bit late after you have cut it up and done the job .. I would put it down to experience and ensure I fully inspect the material before buying in future .Remember wood is a natural product they say .. love it for all the differences a defect to you may be character to another person!
I think you are probably too much of a perfectionist, we are all being brought up in a sterile age now where carrots are standard size , furniture is all fabricated out of false man made wood . nothing is natural anymore . sorry ranting now !
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- big jackLv 51 decade ago
I agree with Ronald, I,m sure you just went in and told them what you wanted and you got whatever they gave you. next time check it out before you pay for it. if you wanted something nice it will cost you 50 dollars a sheet or more.