What's the deal with electric guitar strings?

To be honest, a lot of the different brands are made in the same factories so trying to find much difference between brands is all a bit silly really. Obviously if they're of differing materials or coated with something to preserve their life then theres an exception. Personally I do like coated strings on my acoustic so that I can keep the initial brightness for longer, something I feel matters more on an acoustic. On electric I'm not too fussy as a little age helps 'em bend a little easier!

Where you will find the biggest difference is in the gague of the string, which really will determine how easy the guitar will be in terms of playability: how much force needed to fret and bend notes. Myself, I started out with 9's on my electric, then over a period of a few yrs moved up to 10's, then 11's, and now I've settled back down on the 10's.

Hope I've helped some.

Rotosound strings for the win (get a free extra 1st string)!

The "Super Slinky", "Regular Slinky", etc. refer to the gauge (or thickness" of the string set. Extra slinkys are .008" (the measurement ot the top E), supers are .009, regular .010, and power slinky's .011. The nickel, steel, etc., is the coating on the wound strings.....there's an arguement that nickel gives a better sound and a more "vintage" tone, but a lot of people are allergic to nickel so get irritation. Best bet? Go with Ernie Ball regular slinky or super slinky, depending on what guitar you're using (scale length is important)

basically their is a disorients in Sound between the metals they are made of however they are probably not noticeable to the untrained ear so go for the highest gage you can play at and a good make such as Ernie ball and you shud be fine also think of the prise DUNLOPs are Very expensive thou i don't think much better than others half their price