Kenmore Washing Machine 70 SERIES IT STARTS GO BUT WHEN IT GETS TO THE SPIN CYCLE IT STOP BEFORE THE SPIN HELP?

More than likely all that is wrong with your washer is the lid switch. On most Whirlpool washers the lid switch only effects the spin cycle. So with a bad lid switch the washer will still fill and wash.

If you have an ohmmeter you can check the lid switch. First you have to access the lid switch plug, which is inside the control panel. Remove the screws and lift the control panel. Once up you will see a plug in the center of the case. Unplug it and check for continuity across the two outside terminals on the plug.

Also often the switch will actually break, you will not need a meter to check that just look at it and see if it is broken.

It can also be the timer but lid switches commonly go bad and timers give very little problems so I would check the lid switch first. I hope this helps!

Here are two pages that will help http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/washer-not-spin...

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/Whirlpool-washe...

If it replaced into in favor of a belt, the agitator doesn't run in the course of the wash area. The water is meant to pump out earlier a spin can start up. If the water pumps out after the wash yet no longer after the rinse area or vice versa, that sounds more suitable like a timer difficulty. i have replaced one of those earlier and it replaced into a large number of cord disconnecting and reconnecting. The timers are not affordable (perhaps $50-75) and also you'll likely opt for to get rid of alternative possibilities first. And if this is no longer an electromechanical timer, than it will be a lot more suitable expensive. One workaround to attempt is utilising a diverse cycle, e.g. smooth fairly of standard, or switching to bathe-and-positioned on at the same time as it really is time to empty and spin. If the water doesn't pump out after the wash or rinse area of any cycle, that sounds more suitable like a water pump or washer drainline blockage difficulty in case you are able to hear the washer motor operating. Water pump change is basically undesirable because getting access to it may each and every so often be a discomfort and the hoses each and every so often are fairly stuck to it. If there is useless silence at the same time as it may well be pumping, then an electric powered difficulty is more suitable probably. A defective close-lid safe practices swap will circumvent it from spinning, yet no longer from draining.

Next time you wash clothes, let the timer go until it gets to the point where it usually stops, and then listen closely to the timer. If it's continuing on into the spin cycle, it should continue to make some small noise, a whirring sound or some such. If the noise stops at that point and doesn't come back on, then the timer is bad. If that's the case then, if the unit is over 8 years old, or close, I'd just replace the whole thing. Timer's aren't cheap.

if you can still hear a motor running when it goes into the spin cycle but it doesn't spin, more than likely your problem is the motor coupler. it's a cheap plastic part that attaches the motor to the transmission. check out ebay, search for "washer coupler", you'll see what the part looks like.

Kenmore 70 Series Washer Disassembly

This just happened to us and found the door switch had fell apart. Alot of people slam the door shut and todays engineering is about cheap and sellable not durability. I rigged it but not telling how sorry.

Maybe its the lid switch since they will agitate with the lid open but wont spin with it open

Make sure the door is completely closed. No peeking.