What has failed? Is it the receptacle, the wiring, or the circuit breaker?

You overloaded the circuit. Something was over heated and "damaged". Usually in this situation it will be at a connection. A little known fact about standard circuit breakers (not GFI's), is the manufacturers recommend replacement if the breaker has encountered enough overload to trip them. They are not fuse breakers that have internal components designed to take the load, fail, and then be replaced. This does not mean the circuit breaker is automatically damaged and will not work. The vast majority will continue to "work", but due to the exposure of such an overload, they can no longer insure they will function at the limits intended..i.e. if it's rated for 15A, it may not trip until 16A. That can allow damage to electrical devices connected to this circuit not made to take that load. And ultimately, the worse case of fire. You need to have a licensed electrician evaluate this condition. And if they have never referenced this info about circuit breakers, I would insist they contact the tech dept of the breaker manufacturer of which you have...not the company that sold it or thier buddy thats been in the business for 45 years. Like i said. Its not common knowledge. Good luck.

You have a neutral problem somewhere. If the receptacles are quick wired that is the first thing I would fix. This is where the wires just push into little holes in the back of the receptacle. Not Good and this problem shows you why. Curl the ends of the wire and put them under the side lugs and tighten.

You might have to check every receptacle on that circuit to find the problem neutral. With that loose neutral it can cause the voltage to spike so make sure to get all of the neutrals tight.

The problem could be in the panel but most likely in one of the receptacles.

Hope this helps.

sounds like the neutral. Chances are you overheated a connection somewhere. The lamp is using up most of the circuit and if on for a long time can damage the circuit. Adding any more load is temping fate.

Although I wouldn't rule out a weak breaker.

Im curious if there is another outlet in the circuit or a junction box.

If you can't find it call an electrician and get some wife faction.

One of the tougher problems to diagnose is when half a twin breaker goes bad. Even with a meter, you will get some feedback and you think you are getting 220, but you aren't. When this happens, your stove top will work, but the oven won't, or your dryer will start and run, but not heat. Check each switch individually, turning each side off and on. If there is any play in the switch, it's toast.

Did you physically take the circuit breaker, turn it off and then reset it? If not try that. It has worked for me more than once. the breaker looked like it had not been tripped when in fact it had.

either loose neutral or bad neutral, hook your bare ground to your neutral screw and try it, if it works it's the neutral, put bare ground back on ground screw and repair neutral.