Is RMS different from amps then subs?

Without getting into the mathematics, RMS is simply a way to measure AC voltage that is equal in power to the same DC voltage.

It is by far the most accurate way to measure an amplifiers output - but even that measurement is dependent on several factors such as continuous output verses peak output, the maximum distortion criteria used in the measurements and so forth.

It isn't important that the amplifier's output be equal to the speakers - it isn't really a matching concern - it's only important that the speakers are capable of handling the amplifier's power. In other words, 1000 Watt speakers will sound good and last a long time when hooked up to a 500 Watt amplifier.

Check these sites out...it is a good reference.

http://www.bcae1.com/

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/rftech.asp

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198...

http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles.html#How

If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the “BIG 3” might work. If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.

This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/sh...

I've designed my car for SQ (Sound Quality) not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) my imaging is very good. The bass sounds as if it is up front and my 12 inch sub (picture as shown) in the trunk. I LOVE how it all worked out.

List of items for my ride:

Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861

Processor(s):

- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)

- Apex (by: Kove Audio)

Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)

Cap: One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap

Front: MB Quart 216

Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65

Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. Dual 4 ohm VC

Battery: DieHard AGM Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT

Alternator: 220amp by: PowerBastard.com

1/0 ga wire to D-block

Using a dual fused D-block in the engine bay

- ANL 100 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)

- ANL 150 amp fuse (used as power wire to amp)

- “BIG 3” upgrade

wow individual above me is an fool. a cap wont help your battery from "going dry" they wont help to maintain your battery from loss of life, thinking a battery is barely used to start the vehicle, and run upload-ons jointly as the vehicle is OFF, and additionally you shouldnt run a severe powered audio gadget with the vehicle off in any case. those amps would be high quality definite, yet you will ought to alter useful properties precisely the same. by using fact you would be doing an entire of 2000 watts RMS by using your motor vehicle, you will ought to: improve the great 3 improve to a severe output alternator, a minimum of 220 amps + improve to a Kinetik HC1400 potential cellular in the front of your motor vehicle below the hood. and place a million Kinetik HC2000 powercell in the lower back of your motor vehicle, being ran with a million/0g twine. you're able to try this with optima's yet to get the same that those kinetiks will placed out for you, it is going to take a minimum of three of them, in all possibility 4. and it will fee you a fortune.

Forget about PEAK watts, always go with RMS, that's what you subs can handle continuously.

And that 1200watts is a deploy only to get you to buy that amp.