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95 Eagle Talon: Stall no start, power stops to ignition?

I've been dealing with a car that runs for awhile and then dies. The 1st time it dies I can usually start it up but each time after there's less of a chance. It always cranks so no problem with starter setup. After it sits a few minutes it will start back up but die again soon. Idle or driving and starts this before engine even gets warm usually.

I bought a multimeter and tested the power coming to the ignition coil after sitting when I know it would start and the volts were 12v when I try to start car which is correct. I plug the connector back in, start it up, let idle until it dies. Try to start and when only cranks and in this "mode" I test the power again going to ignition coil and 0.07v and car wont start. Wait and test will be back to 12v and I know will start when I plug back in.

I can usually tell when the car will start for sure because when I turn the key to ON (not starting) it shows the check engine light along with the other sensors but also plus the radiator reservoir light at which time it will start when I try.

From my understanding the 12v comes from the MFI/ASD relay to the ignition coil and this is told to cutoff power if the computer gets a bad reading from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. Possibly the ignition module but most of what I read about the cutting off mentions these sensors the most often. No clue if the module would do this or not.

Can someone detailed information on what I should be testing using a multimeter to figure this out? Please include the multimeter range info I need to use also please.

I did go ahead and order a camshaft senor because it's pretty cheap and easy to replace but would like to know what you mechanics would do at this point.

Thanks in advance :)

Update:

Also battery and alternator are good. All fuses are good. Fuel pump runs like it's suppose to. Haven't done a fuel pressure test and really don't know how to do :s

Other problems is the clutch neutral safety switch stopped working and disabled so can now start without clutch in. Yesterday the brake switch wont disengage and the brake lights want to stay on. Pulled fuse.

Update 2:

To update this question and may have solved. I suspected the camshaft sensor so I went ahead and ordered it and already got it and installed it. So far it hasn't cutoff.

I cleaned the throttle body really good. Had a lot of carbon build up and got a throttle body position sensor code at Advance earlier.

I'm not 100% sure I fixed it. But if it doesn't cut off for the next few days+ then it was the CAS and my suspicion was correct.

Cross my fingers :)

Update 3:

Actually the CAS connectot was giving real low voltages but after I cut it off to rewire the new CAS connector I tested the power wire and suddenly giving 9v. The manual says it should be 12v but most of what I've read online people say 9v. Sounds right to me :)

2 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    I have kinda same problem with my 95' eclipse and i replaced my fuel pump,water pump,timing belt,and even cleaned head, replaced spark plugs, and one day i decided to tap my ecu because it wouldnt start and bam! it started, now it still shuts off on me here n their but wen it cuts off i jus tap it again so check ur ecu it might be ur problem as it is to mine

  • ?
    Lv 4
    5 years ago

    Just since the Dash Lights come does not imply the Battery is "Fine", Means the is vigour it the Battery, possibly no longer adequate to begin the Engine. Forcing it out of park will have broken the "Neutral Safety Switch". Have the Battery Fully Charged and "Load Tested"

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