dncholas

Bought a 95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD that's upgraded and practically a race car already but overheats. The obvious reason is air getting into cooling system but no noticeable leaks except a lil from passenger side of motor.

All I know for sure are these things..

1) coolant loss

2) overall no obvious leak

3) air in cooling system which leads to overheating

4) replacing radiator cap makes no difference still lowered sitting still

5) if run with cap off n funnel it rises normally but drops below topped off when cutting off car

6) everything is replaced or upgraded on car and runs good except for overheating

7) if hitting it hard repeatedly the turbo seems to make heat faster

8) even running easy barely hitting turbo much it will eventually overheat

9) it will eventually be low on coolant with air in system running or not

Help me please because I want to remove ALL other possibilities before ripping open this engine.

THanks in advance

The ECM is basically shutting down while driving and then no CEL, no start. Later starts after 5-10 minutes and sometimes tapping it makes it come back online. OBDII has no comms and only error during this "mode" of shut down.

I'm having trouble finding answers to this problem and everyone I talk to just scratches their heads. People who should know a lot more than me about cars seem dumbfounded when it comes to the ECM. I guess that's why most shops tell people to replace the ECM even if they have no clue.

Questions..

What can cause an ECM to shut off besides a short or harness?

What is the clicking noise the ECM seems to make before car shuts off as well as the ECM?

What is the best way to test the power and grounds if the problem is intermittent?

I can't find any fuse or relay for the ECM or it's memory. When it shuts down like this it resets any trouble codes it had but the only one it gives is rear O2 sensor which is disconnected. But why would the ECM erase codes regardless?

It's not the ASD relay because I've tested hooked up and bypassed. The ECM is shutting off, no CEL with key to ON until it wants to start then you see CEL and will start.

All of the fuses I see are large fusable links and none ever fry. The smaller 12v relays are for horn, fan, a/c, etc. Shouldn't there be a fuse to protect the ECM?

Any help would be appreciated.

I've been trying to figure out why the car keeps cutting off like I hit a killswitch and then realized that when it goes into this "mode" and dies it wont start for another 5-10 minutes. During this time the CEL is not showing at all like the ECU is not powered or communicating. I've already bypassed the ASD relay to see what would happen and worked for awhile but drains battery. So I hotwired the 87 pin from the ignition. Just wanted to rule out this ASD relay. So now cutting off again, no CEL appears until it wants to start and will. Someone told me they had this problem and they just hit the ECM with a wrench and it immediately works again as in not waiting 5-10 minutes. Just like he said the CEL light comes on at key ON position immediately after hitting it. I Googled this up and found very little except one guy saying there's a TAP test and you hit it while car is running to see if it hesitates but this is kind of the opposite. How could hitting the ECM make it work? DOes this mean it's about fried? Car runs great and sometimes will go a few days without any cutoffs and when I start getting the cuttoffs they happen close together over and over. Cleaning the battery terminals and resetting the ECM seems to help this not occur. Also when the ECM does this it erases an trouble codes usually. If new ECM is needed where's most trustworthy place to order one?

The power to my ECU is being cut off and not sure if the ASD relay can do this but it dies and wont start for about 5 minutes then starts up. During this time the CEL light doesn't appear when I turn the key to ON. The main relay may be causing this but I don't know how to bypass to figure this out while in this "mode". What I would like to do is redo the grounds or add more ground to the ECU but not finding much online to help me. I read that one of the grounds is the ECU case itself where it's bolted on to the body but then there's multiple ground wires in the cluster. Do you know which pins are the grounds and any advice on doing this would help.

Car is an Eagle Talon 96 2G ESI. I've been having a cutoff problem and trying to narrow it down.

Symptoms: Car dies while driving or idling within a half hour, sometimes 10 minutes. Can start up usually after 5 minutes or so but then repeats the cutting off.

Results: When car dies and immediately will not start back up I test the power going to the coils and only 0.07v. When the power shows 12v I plug back in coil pack and starts. So I know that the ASD (MFI) relay is either cutting off and bad or something is telling the PCM to not send power to it. In this mode the fuel pump does not prime either. I'm pretty sure the PCM send the command to the ASD (MFI) relay which then allows power to pump, coil pack and injectors.

I tested volts on the cable that goes to the camshaft position sensor because I'm suspicious of it but the results don't make sense but I am a newby with a multimeter :s

The middle wire appears to be black and ground and doing an ohms test it appears to read either 001 or 002 set on range 20ohms on meter. Most things seem to say 2 ohms or less is good.

I test for voltage on the other two wires being blue with red stripe and one is yellow. Both show 0.68v with the key turned to the ON position. My understanding is that one should be 12v and the other is the signal which should be anywhere from 1.5v to 5v. I'm not sure if that is correct but the Haynes manual says and also read on forums.

One important note is that I can tell if the car will start with key in the ON position because it will show the check engine light along with the red indicator lights when you turn key to ON. Also the radiator reservoir symbol. If I pull the plug on the camshaft sensor and turn the key to ON it shows only the red indicator lights and will not start but the strange thing is if I plug the camshaft back up and turn key to ON after doing that it will not start for awhile. Like something has alreadt told the PCM something and now on a timer before allows to start. weird.

My personal opinion of this is the test doesn't mean much unplugged because the second the PCM realizes the camshaft sensor is not connected or functioning it appears it cuts power to it as well as the coil, pump, injectors, etc. So the test of voltage may mean nothing and makes sense I guess.

I think if I was to remove the insulation on the power wire and signal wire that while it's connected I would get actual voltages. Because the PCM shuts power to everything immediately if sensor is not communicating or senses it. And just the same, the car will not start if I have CAS unplugged.

So no reason to bother to test voltage while cranking.

What do you make of all of this??????????????????????

Thanks in advance :)

I've been dealing with a car that runs for awhile and then dies. The 1st time it dies I can usually start it up but each time after there's less of a chance. It always cranks so no problem with starter setup. After it sits a few minutes it will start back up but die again soon. Idle or driving and starts this before engine even gets warm usually.

I bought a multimeter and tested the power coming to the ignition coil after sitting when I know it would start and the volts were 12v when I try to start car which is correct. I plug the connector back in, start it up, let idle until it dies. Try to start and when only cranks and in this "mode" I test the power again going to ignition coil and 0.07v and car wont start. Wait and test will be back to 12v and I know will start when I plug back in.

I can usually tell when the car will start for sure because when I turn the key to ON (not starting) it shows the check engine light along with the other sensors but also plus the radiator reservoir light at which time it will start when I try.

From my understanding the 12v comes from the MFI/ASD relay to the ignition coil and this is told to cutoff power if the computer gets a bad reading from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. Possibly the ignition module but most of what I read about the cutting off mentions these sensors the most often. No clue if the module would do this or not.

Can someone detailed information on what I should be testing using a multimeter to figure this out? Please include the multimeter range info I need to use also please.

I did go ahead and order a camshaft senor because it's pretty cheap and easy to replace but would like to know what you mechanics would do at this point.

Thanks in advance :)

I've been having problems with the car cutting off while driving or idle just like I turned the key to off. Often wont start for awhile. Everything I checked is ok but seems like the computer is what's turning the car off. Like a bad sensor or something. Anyways the car went from this to not even trying to start. Now I'm getting angry with it. Everything checked out fine until as a last resort I disabled the neutral safety switch and the car fires right up and hasn't stalled since yesterday. Was stalling every quarter mile up to this point.

So my main questions are..

If the switch is shorted out would this cause a car to stall like a shaft sensor would?

Is this switch an input to the computer so if shorting out would it cause computer problems?

I basically want to know if this switch could lead to computer shut offs?

I've Googled this topic but mostly only find people saying they can't start their car but one mechanic told a person having the same problems as me with stalls that the NSS can cause stalls and acts as an input to the computer and shuts down because you are in gear. I'm pretty positive it only stalled in gear, rarely in neutral. So basically is it confusing the computer somehow and causing this? I'm impressed how long I drove around today without a stall testing it but wouldn't be shocked if it shuts down tomorrow.

Thanks

The car is 1995 Eagle Talon. The car cuts off whether idle or driving. Seems to do more when temperature outside is hotter. Was doing this before winter then stopped through winter and now doing again. Fuel pump and ignition seems perfectly fine. Changed fuel filter and fuel line seems correct pressure. I definitely lean toward electrical problem all fuses and relays are working as far as I can tell.

These things may shed light on it for you..

Sometimes it starts right back up

The only known fix is removing positive from battery to reset computer then fires right up and runs good for awhile

Check engine light comes on and goes off, usually turns off after restarting car

Sometimes check engine light turns off while driving and feel quick hesitation

After removing positive from battery it makes no spark touching to post until after computer has reset then here a slight spark as I put it back on, as if computer has shut the car down

When it dies the oil light comes on usual but also the battery light and on occasion the symbol for the coolant reservoir, all fluids are checked and topped off always

I'm starting to lean toward a sensor telling the computer to shutdown but not sure how to test them all and seems like many. It just seems the computer is turning the car off and/or all power to the motor is being shut down at random and usually will not start for 10 minutes but sometimes longer and I'm at the point if it doesn't start up immediately I go for the reseting the computer, wait, 99% of the time then fires up after reconnecting battery.

Any ideas?

The car is a Eagle Talon 95 with manual trans, runs good except for cutting off and has had good upkeep on it. The strange thing is it will randomly cut off while I'm driving but seems to still be running but no power, gas pedal has no effect. I can downshift and just hear the engine rpm winding down but will die before or as soon as I'm close to stopping or slow. If I'm idling or at very low speed this happens very quickly and dead before I can react. Sometimes I can sit and wait 3 minutes and starts right back up but often will cut off again. This may happen two days later or two weeks later. Has no noticeable reasoning for doing this or timing. The best way I deal with this is removing the positive battery terminal for 10 minutes and reset the ECU and then seems fine for days or even a few weeks sometimes. I'm suspicious of the ECU but other things could be be telling the ECU something incorrect. The only dash trouble code I get is (if I remember correctly) is 12 for power disconnect in last 50 cycles because of disconnecting battery. Mechanically everything is fine. I'm a little suspicious of the fuel system and does have a replacement fuel pump off of a Mitsubishi Gallant and has a hotwire on it from the ignition switch that I currently have disconnected. But seems to hum fine and did the noise test the book told be to do and seems to be working fine each time I tested. I've flushed the entire cooling system and fresh 50/50 and doesn't seem to run hot. The car will sometimes cut off after a mile driving it easy. Give me ideas please. Thanks

My dad lives in a duplex rental property and has so for many years. He's now retired and living on a fixed income. The owner has now decided to sell the house and one of the prospective buyers is a HUD landlord up the street. If he buys it I already know he will push my dad out and bring in HUD because they pay more although do not work. The lease has expired and is only oral which legally I think only is seen as 30 days in length at any point and time. This is in WV which seems to have some decent laws protecting renters but the lack of a written lease may be the biggest problem. The real estate agent told me that even if he had a written lease it would become void if the house is sold. Can someone tell me what I should do to protect my dad. I'm currently living in the house now since being laid off from trucking and considering renting the other side which has been empty for awhile.

Try to make this short and to the point. Many details leading up to this but want you to know what I have dealt with. Mainly the CPU seems to reset while driving which cuts off the car and sometimes I can pop the clutch and restart and sometimes not. I was under the belief it's either overheating or CPU is going bad or power supply is bad. I did a total cooling system job including new thermostat, heavy flush, and refill. Runs cooler for sure. I can wipe heating issue out. Car still does the same at random whether driving car hard or not much at all. Not cooling.

It seems when I have it cut out that if I clean the posts and terminals with tool it doesn't do for awhile but I do notice corrosive build up happens pretty fast on the terminals but cleaning always seems to make it longer until the next cut off.

One thing that stands out is I have a rear O2 sensor that had wires severed and shows as a 1-2 fault code on dash. When check engine light is on car never dies but when it cuts out I notice the check engine light is off. That's how I can tell it's resetting or shutting off (CPU).

Doing more tests I realize that even if I leave battery diconnected for a very long time and hook back up and run car that when I kill it and check fault codes it will always have 1-2 O2 sensor prob but not showing the check engine light. Usually comes on after 15-20 minutes driving.

So my question is why does the car only run great when check engine light is on and why would it give me the correct fault code after reset and running but NOT give me the check engine light although it knows the problem even after the battery reset?

My main VPN uses openvpn protocol but I have an account for a PPTP VPN. Make it a short story.. PPTP use to work and now not only has vanished from connections I had setup but will not allow me to setup a new PPTP VPN connection. Even if I check the box saying do not connect now just setup it appears like trying to setup for a second and then says can't create. Two things have changed on my pc that may be related somehow, one I just fixed and the other is my main question. Did a disk check and fixed some errors (unknown) just let it do it and then was suddenly in test mode. I fixed that with a CMD line command. I disable a few services for security reasons and need to know which services are required for the PPTP VPN to function? Also my firewall is not blocking anything and when I click try again it appears trying to make the connection but only a couple http attempts are made beside DNS.

Need a free PPTP server for VPN function. I don't want any suggestions for installed one click programs that only change the browser's IP because I need all software to be tunneled, everything. I just need info on PPTP servers and preferably in the US or UK I guess. I already have one free one but very undependable (at least the free allowance is) plus is Amsterdam and pretty slow even with my 10mbps bandwidth and also cuts in and out making it not secure. Although I know of a couple pay for VPN's that seem good I can't afford at the moment. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I already know there is and have tools that can trim video clips and also join video without recompressing but how come I can't do this simple task in Sony Vegas Pro v9 or AVS Video Editor v4? I also have Adobe After Effects but I'm still learning the basics. I can tell you that AVS does a more efficient job to do multi trims and recompresses in same standard while Sony wants to make the file 5 times bigger even manually adjusting all project properties to match exactly to input video. I like. I do however like using Sony Vegas because it can do more and the trimmer is much nicer. I read on avsforum.com this..

When you render video to any of the following formats, unedited video frames are passed through without recompression (smart rendering):

DV AVI

DV MXF

IMX MXF (IMX 24p MXF is not supported for no-recompress rendering)

HD MXF

MPEG-2 (for files such as those from HDV and DVD camcorders)

In order to perform rendering without recompression, the width, height, frame rate, field order, and bit rate of the source media, project settings, and rendering template must match. Frames that have effects, compositing, or transitions applied will be rendered.

..I spent a long time making the custom properties exactly to spec and followed what this person wrote and still would recompress and way larger. Can win for losing with Sony though. For ever thing it does easily there's another that's not. Can someone please give me detailed info on how to edit my movies with Sony Vegas without compression and also control the file size which by default should be the same bit rate if it doens't recompress, right? How do I do this one tiny thing that's mostly what I wanted Vegas for and can't control it. Thanks in advanced and if you know this answer then please be detailed as you can. :)

I'm wondering what the exact effects would be if an appendix became infected and then burst. Like how quickly would the person become ill? I had sharp pains for about a week in my lower right abdomen and then suddenly stopped. This was about 3-4 days ago and no pain since. I don't feel ill or bad but was worried that it might have been my appendix but would I feel effects by now if infection was released into the body?

I'm just wondering if anyone knows whether or not the FSC (fire safe cigarette) laws in place covers cigars in any way, I'm talking about the smaller cigarette type cigars that look the same except say cigars or cigarellos. I'm a smoker but I refuse to smoke these new FSC because they taste bad and I guarantee years down the road people have directly linked illnesses to the chemicals they use which is a variant of asbestos and moth balls compounds. The only tobacco I can get that is non FSC is roll your own or cigars and even the small ones are not FSC. I was informed at a tobacco store I will not name sells a cheaper roll your own tobacco that claims to be pipe tobacco so is not taxed as much which leads me to wonder if generic cigarette manufacturers could simply call their actual cigarettes cigars and avoid taxation as well as FSC laws.

I posted another question similar but asking more specifically about encoding but here just list what you think is the best program to create and burn DVDs, what do you use and also any recommendations. Details: large videos 1gb up to 4gb in mostly .mp4/avc but some are .mkv format and the only program that even will accept .mkv is ConvertXtoDVD. I need the best software and cost is not an issue. Adobe? Sony? Please advise

I already have basic dvd authoring and burning programs so not looking to hear get ConvertXtoDVD, which I already have and the only dvd burning software I could get to work with .mkv format, but most of my videos are .mp4/avc, .avi, .wmv, and although somewhat knowledgeable about this I need more info from experts. I have bluray movies and have already converted them into the before mentioned formats and all look very good on the pc but lose quality converting to mpeg/.vob. I've read about HC Encoder and something about ECC encoder. I have AVStoDVD open source program that allows non .avs to convert, naming them .avs inside HC (except .mkv), but trying directly to use HC Encoder it wont even allow me to choose a non .avs. This program works except for .mkv and using COnvertX right now for the .mkv and seems to be doing fine. Tell me more about what to use for the absoloutely best quality onto a dvd or am I already using the best with HC Encoder via AVStoDVD, although somehow tricking HC into thinking it's something it's not (.avs). Tell me what you use even if complicated or is expensive software I am willing to buy if needed. Need the best! Thanks in advance

Master is leaking on the pedal side where push rod comes out to the pedal setup. Was hoping it was just a seal but it's all one piece, so give me tips on putting in a new one myself and things not to do or look out for while doing. One thing I'm a little leary of is dealing with the lines from reservoir and line exiting master in this process.

Eagle Talon 1995: Has a slight leak in the clutch hydraulic system and I believe it's the release cylinder on the transmission case because everything down their is oily and can't find any leaks in the master cylinder or the lines. Just finally bled the system and working great but if I don't check the reservoir all the time it becomes empty and air obviously gets in the system. I know most will say just go fix it or get it fixed but trying to think of a way to maintain DOT III fluid level at all times until I can afford to put in the shop. The reservoir is already very tiny so even a small slow leak doesn't take long to empty. On this model car it"s like 1.5in diameter and almost 2in tall. What I'm considering would be adding a second reservoir beside it and either rig a tube into the side of it or rig through just the cap, only proplem with the second is gravity and lack of space that would be higher than this point for the 2nd reservoir. I'd like to hear from some creative people that know how to rig things. Thanks in advance.