why does my car amplifier turn off when it is loud?

it's overheating. Is it under the seat or something? If I remember this right, you should match amp Watts to the sub Watts. Put your amp in the trunk and make sure the wire polarity is correct.

Good luck!

Check the ohm load. Maybe it is hooked up as 1 ohm, but the amp is 2 ohm stable.

Check these sites out...it is a good reference.

http://www.bcae1.com/

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/rf%E2%80%A6

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread%E2%80%A6

http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles%E2%80%A6

- Also check this out http://www.youtube.com/ and all related videos...Look for the guy in the blue collared shirt. Type “car audio systems” in the search engine. He gives a lot of very good info.

If your headlight dims with the bass notes, the “BIG 3” might work. If not an H.O. alternator will be needed, or else be prepared to pour a lot of $$$ for batteries.

This site explains the "BIG 3" upgrades.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.%E2%80%A6

I've designed my car for SQ (Sound Quality) not SPL (Sound Pressure Level) my imaging is very good. The bass sounds as if it is up front and my 12 inch sub (picture as shown) in the trunk. I LOVE how it all worked out.

GOOD LUCK and have fun…

List of items for my ride:

Head Unit: Alpine DVA - 9861

Processor(s):

- EpiCenter (by: Audio Control)

- Apex (by: Kove Audio)

Amp: JL Audio 300/4 and 500/1 (constant 800 watts)

Cap: One Rockford Fosgate1 farad Cap

Front: MB Quart 216

Rear: Boston Acoustics (6x9) SX65

Sub: 1 Eclipse 12" Alum. Dual 4 ohm VC

Battery: DieHard AGM Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT

Alternator: 220amp by: PowerBastard.com

1/0 ga wire to D-block

Using a dual fused D-block in the engine bay

- ANL 100 amp fuse (used for H.O. Alternator)

- ANL 150 amp fuse (used as power wire to amp)

- “BIG 3” upgrade