does my betta have fin rot?

Do NOT add salt!! It is beneficial but so much has to be added in order for it too help that you'd end up killing your fish.

Fin Rot:

Most bettas do get a black, dark colored or sometimes red edging on their fins/tail or have red streaks with slightly balled or bloodied ends when they have fin rot; however, red bettas can be an exception. They can have black/dark edging for fin rot but also sometimes get black/dark edging for fin regrowth as it grows back, it fills back in red over time and the black/dark outline goes away. So to determine which it is, how is the length of his fins? Do they look the same or a teensy bit longer, or does they look shorter? There's an extreme, but clear fin rot example about 1/4 down at this link: http://www.bettatalk.com/betta_diseases.htm

The best treatment for bacterial infections (which fin rot is, if he has it), is Kanaplex/Kanamycin. It's best for any range of infections and easiest on the fish, but it's available online only unless you have a great local fish store. I'd definitely get it to have on hand though, for this fish or another. A med for in the meantime I'd recommend is Jungle Fungus Eliminator or Clear (I like the powder kind better than the perforated pill, but that's just me). You can get it at PetCo or PetSmart. If you can't get that pick up Maracyn 1 and 2 (yes, both, since each only treat one type of infection and you need a broad-spectrum antibiotic). You can find both at PetSmart, Pet Supplies Plus and Petco. Maracyn is recommended less than the other two because it's been around a lot longer and sometimes doesn't treat current infections because it's not as potent and has been overused. If he's in a cycled tank, take out the carbon because it removes the med. Also, with either Kana or Jungle, you can treat daily for 3 days (doing the appropriate water changes for your tank size) and retreat if necessary for another 3 days.

Fin rot is usually caused by poor water conditions, though some bettas especially if purchased from a big box store can be prone to illness because of the bad conditions they were in while at the store, even if he has pristine conditions in your care. However, here are some helpful basics.

1) Your betta needs a heater-his water needs to be no colder than 78 degrees at all times. If it is he'll get sick, become listless, not eat and/or die. Depending on tank size, I'd get the following: 1-gallon (7.5 or 10 watt heater: PetSmart and PetCo have them), 2.5-3 gallons: 25 watt heater (most pet stores have this size), 5 gallons: 50 watt heater (most pet stores have this size).

2) Are you keeping up on his water changes? Water changes remove ammonia, which is toxic and forms in the water from uneaten food, waste, and even his breathing. The frequency of water changes depends on the size of his tank. For uncycled 100% water change tanks, this is a guide:

1 gallon or >: change 100% of the water (and rinse off plants, gravel, etc.) every 1-3 days; 2.5-3 gallons 2-3 times/week; 5 gallons 1-2 x's/week.

If it's a cycled tank, you want to change out 10-15% of the water once a week.

3) Are you using water conditioner? You need to use it with every water change and it should remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. If it doesn't, take it back and get a brand that does: Prime and Novaquel together (PetSmart), AquaSafe (Wal-Mart, PetSmart).

It sounds like that is just part of his coloring. Fin Rot symptoms are:

Fin edges turn white

Fins fray

Bases of fins enflamed

Entire fin may rot away

It's good your asking so many questions! Better to be informed than have no idea what you are doing and have your fish end up dieing at to young an age!

Check the source to learn more about Fin Rot.

try adding aquarium salt (1 tablespoon per 5 gallons) to prevent any infection and strengthen the immune system. a 25% water change and temperature of 80 degrees will also help.

http://bettacare101.com/