Dangerous to add ich meds if the fish isn't sick?

It's ich. Get RidIch, which treats parasitic infestations which both velvet and ich are. It can be bought online and at PetSmart. It's the most effective med for parasites and gentlest on the fish. Malachite Green would be the 2nd-best choice. Other meds have copper which can poison fish at the least it's really hard on them. You can boost your heater up 2-4 degrees (if yours has a heater) to speed up the life cycle. Often, when people don't see the white/gold flecks anymore they assume it must be gone, when in reality the parasites are just in the water now, and the human eye can't see it at this stage. You need to treat for 3 days beyond when you see the last flecks because ich goes through 3 stages and has to go through all of them before it's really gone an velvet is similar. So, if you saw flecks for 4 days, you'd treat for 7. I normally do a 7 day round as a rule, and have had severe infestation treatments last as long as 14 days. A med FYI: wait 20-25 minutes after doing a water change to add any med to the water, sooner will dilute the meds somewhat. If you have a cycled tank do a 10-15% water change before the 1st dose, and take out the carbon since it's removes the meds. And if it's cycled, follow the directions on the bottle for how often to dose and do water changes.

FYI for future diagnosis, I only keep bettas but I think this test would work for your fish, too. To determine the cause of the rubbing-get a flashlight and shine it on them. Do you see white spots that looked like they were sprinkled with grains of sugar? If so, it's ich. Or does it look like they're covered in gold dust? If yes, it's velvet. (You can't see the gold in regular light usually, which is why the flashlight in necessary).

Yes it is always bad to treat fish for an Illness they dont have. Yes stress can leave fish open to ich. Fish with ich dont always rub on rocks, mine never did. If she has spots on her she most like has ich, and the others will get it too. Keep an eye out for more spots and google ich under images and try to be sure. Start to raise the water temperature now to 82 degrees this will speed up the ichs life cycle and wont hurt the fish as long as you dont raise the temperature more than 2-3 degrees a day. You should add a tablespoon of salt per gallon if the other fish in the tank can tolerate a little salt. This will promote the fish to develope a healthy slime coatinging AKA fish immune system

the white spots on her tail are ich. And unfortunately if one fish has it... the others are going to be susceptible so you'll have to treat the entire tank for Ich. Remove any carbon and turn off UV sterilizers. Add the correct dosage for scaled fish (unless you have tetra's or catfish). Be aware that when the white spots are gone it does not mean they're cured. Up the temperature to 82 at least to shorten the lifespan of the Ich. Add a bit of Aquarium salt to help with stress and to help get rid of the Ich (freshwater ich is different than saltwater ich and neither can withstand changes in salinity).

I 2d the regardless of the obtrusive undeniable actuality that on a bacterial ailment like columnaris. the drugs referenced aren't from now on undesirable. I do opt for making use of SeaChem concentration contained in the nutrition and a accepted drugs like seachem paraguard (that ought to help with ich besides). I feed concentration by potential of having a bloodworms flat and shaving off a contact for small fish like betta. Then mix distinct the most concentration in with the melted blood worms and feed. it fairly is going to more beneficial effective objective the interior an infection. I also agree Melafix is largely unfavourable. 0.5 your later issues are likely from this unfavourable "tonic." It has a bent to rigidity fish out more beneficial suitable than help them, and under no circumstances in any appreciate fairly helps something severe. I persoanlly have under no circumstances, ever, had it do something effective and does no longer recommend it even to my enemies. TB is a bacterial ailment, sure, yet actually one in each and each and every of truly some, and highly uncommon. of route it truly is smart to always save your palms sparkling, and under no circumstances in any appreciate placed a hand with an open wound in a fish tank.

Not saying what other tank mates are in with Mollies,so wouldn't try meds at all. Simply not needed anyway.

Ich can be treated with elevated temperature alone...or in conjunction with aquarium salt at 1 tblsp per 10g tank volume.(safe for ANY tank mates or plants).Run temperature up to 82-84F GRADUALLY and leave there for 14 days (salt is purely optional,but if used dissolve whole dose in pitcher of dechlorinated water and GRADUALLY add over 8-12 hours).

What isn't usually thought of with Mollies is that they LIKE some salinity in their water.Two trains of thought on that now (since most are "tank raised" these days),so look into that and make up your own mind.

http://www.afae.it/pages/tematica/articolipoecilid...

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/mollies.h...

If you see white dots on her, even if thay are only on her tail, it would be best to start treatment. No, it won't hurt the other fish. Also, if you have an adjustable heater, raise the temp to about 76-78F and that will help them get better faster. Hope this helps :-)

You better start treating it now! It sounds like she has itch, it won't harm the fish even if they don't have it, but if you don't start now. They will!

Good luck!