Whats up with my garage door opener?

If your door has a wired connection to a button near the entry to the house, and this acts the same as the remote units work, then I agree you can eliminate the transmitters from the problem. The door will have features that handle the various situations it encounters. One might be the ability to override the safety sensors by continuous pressure on the opener button. I don't know if this is the case. But it suggests working the sensor problems first, since have given you trouble in the past.

Because wiggling the wires was necessary to get them to work, we can conclude that the connections at the sensor are loose or otherwise not reliable. I would open the cover of each sensor and reconnect the wires firmly to what they are designed to connect to. If it's a soldered connection, be sure to apply a heat sink between the solder connector and the rest of any circuitry that might be in the sensor. A heat sink is a metal clip that can draw the heat from the soldering iron away from the circuit you are working on. Radio shack or a similar electronics supplier should have these in stock.

Once both sensors have their wires firmly attached look at the brackets that are holding them in position. Make sure they are well attached to the frame of the garage or wherever they are supposed to be attached. Then aim them carefully to get the appropriate signal showing they are in working order.

Then test the door again. If the problem is solved, congrats. If not, proceed to the settings for the door movement that you will find on the motor that drives the chain or screw drive for the door. There are often settings for the travel and for the force used to close the door. Adjust one at a time to see if it has any effect on the door or the problem. Return to the original setting if the only effect is to alter the door motion in a way you don't need or want.

If none of these things work, you probably have a circuit board, sensor or wiring problem inside the head unit (motor and controls). that might require a trip to the shop or replacement depending on the cost of a new one and its compatibility with the rest of the setup.

Definitely the sensors need to be aligned properly. If sensors are out of whack, will send the wrong signal to the board. Adjusting sensors properly requires some skills. Try loosening the sensors from the safety nut and align both looking at each other until the green light on both sensors are fully lit. When you can accomplish this, try operating the door again. repeat process as needed. If this does not do for you, then you have to call one of those money hungry garage door techs in your town. Good luck...!

I am one of those money hungry door guys. First make sure the diode lights are orange or green. One really old sears had safety beams that had symptoms had problems like your, but I need the model # or a picture. If so one of your beams is going to be large and round. If they are modern they are acting strange. Normally the door should go up by pressing and releasing the button, any of them.The safety beams only function on the down. I would first disconnect the door while it is down and make sure you can run it by hand. If it is a beam problem the door should rise normally, it should not go down at all with the remote, and only go down by pushing and holding the wall button until the door hits the ground and stops.

the issue now is probable the morning sunlight washing out between the picture-cells in case your storage faces the growing to be sunlight. One area is a receiver & one area is a transmitter & usually swapping both image-cells w/ one yet another will usually sparkling up the issue. The chilly project is probable condensation on the picture-cells once you open the door & the contained in the storage is hotter than the outdoors air. putting Rain-X on the picture-cellular lens would or gained't sparkling up the issue. the different determination is to wipe off the lenses in basic terms formerly you attempt to close the door.