Luthiers. Can I get some advice on truss bar adjustment?

the method I use i'm not sure if its proper or correct but as long as you do it carefully you should be ok, I leave the strings on loose and work in between them, but i press around the 3rd fret and the 12th-15th somewhere and then you can look through sideways at the arch of the neck you dont want the string to lay flat if it does the action is still too low, and on the other end you dont want it too high, look around the 7th to 9th fret and there should be a space between the fretwire and the string, I like to keep that gap about the width of a credit card or so.

you can go more then 1/4 turn its just not a good idea to do it more at a time that way you have an idea of where about you are with it. turn it a bit then snug up the string(doesnt need to be in tune just firm enough to get a clear sound and then i fret every note from the 1st fret down to about the 5th just to see if it raised enough to take the buzz out.

just go slow and be careful and you should be fine, never torque or force anything.and loosen the string before fiddling with the truss

The truss rod is NOT used to adjust the action. The truss rod determines the amount of relief in the neck. Every neck has a slight bow to it, this is known as "relief". It is necessary so that the strings will not touch other frets when being played at any spot. Although truss rod adjustment can seemingly change the action it is actually adding or decreasing relief. The "ACTION" (height of the strings) is adjusted by raising or lowering the saddle and or nut. Raising it will require adding a shim or shims underneath the saddle or nut. Lowering the action entails removing the saddle (or nut) and filing some material off of the bottom edge.

Truss rod adjustments should be left to an experienced technician. Never turn the truss rod more than a quarter of a turn at a time and then allow the instrument to sit for several hours for the wood to "catch up" to the adjustment. proper truss rod adjustment can take days to finally get it right.

Brand new strings will often buzz a bit for a few days until they settle in, especially if the old strings had been on for a long time. Try stretching the strings slightly by grabbing them one at a time and gently "tugging" on it up and down the length of the string. This will remove some of the excess elasticity and help control some of the "zingyness" inherent in new strings.

If the problem persists after a few days than take the guitar into your local shop and let them inspect it for you.

It is possible to work on your own guitar provided you have the right tools and know-how. To that end, there are several books and websites that can assist you in learning about working on your own guitars. Trial and error are not always the best ways to learn, especially with your own beloved instrument!

You adjust the action by raising the bridge/saddle NOT by adjusting the truss rod! I am not familiar with this model of guitar but I guess the simplest way to do this would be to remove the saddle and shim it (put something thin underneath it - a piece of card or photograph can be used).

Adjusting the truss rod IS NOT intended as a a way of altering the action. It is a way of adjusting the curvature of the neck: if you found that the strings were rattling on a particular part of the neck, it COULD be that the truss rod needed adjusting. It is important to be sure that this is the case before tampering with the truss rod and unless you are sure of what you are doing you should leave it alone. As you suggest, you should never turn the truss rod nut for more than a quarter of a turn. You should then leave it for a few day for the adjustments to take effect before attempting any more adjustment.

Sorry to repeat what the guy above wrote - I read the question but not the answers!