Questions about building ported sub box?

I wouldn't recommend fiberglass unless you have a LOT of enclosure building experience.

It's a pain to work with and VERY time consuming. Plus, getting your volumes right would be extremely difficult.

If your amp's the CE3800D it's capable of 1200-1400w rms at 1 ohm. Boss over-rates their equipment drastically. Besides, the amt of power you're running doesn't impact the size of the enclosure significantly.

This box is going to be enormous.

The ports alone, accounting for the thickness of the wood are going to occupy 3.75 x 15.5 x 21.25 = 2470.3 cu. in. or (divide by 1728 cu in / cu ft), 1.43 cu ft.

So each chamber needs to be about 6.43cf, or going back to cubic inches that's 11,111 cu in.

Taking a shot in the dark let's start with the baffle (the side the sub is mounted in) with internal dimensions of 18 x 24.

18 x 24 = 432 sq in

From there, to find the req'd depth to arrive at 11,111 cubic inches you divide 11,111 by 432.

which equals 25.72", just call it 25.75.

So building that box for two subs I'd probably do it with the 18" dimension being the top/bottom and the 24 being the sides.

So your panel dimensions:

Top(1) & bottom(1): 18+18+2.25 (to acct for wood thickness assuming 3/4") = 38.25 x 27.25

Sides (2): 24" x 27.75"

Front(1) & back(1): 36.75" x 24"

Partition(1): 24 x 25.75

Port cutout would be adjusted for the 18" width of each chamber so insead of 15.5x3 it would be 18 x 2.625 and keep the same 22" length.

That would make your two port panels 18 x 21.25"

The box would end up looking something like this, but a LOT bigger: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7515_Sonic-Sub...

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15 Ported Subwoofer Box

You'll be fine with a deep box as long as the cubic feet required by the subs are met. If the cubic feet required are not met then your sub may not hit as hard as it can due to air constraint.

for SUV go sub up port rear, or sub rear port rear.

is that 5 cu ft for each sub? if this is your first build i would build exactly according to spec. use 3/4" mdf wood and double up on the side the speaker is mounted on. use a type of strong woodglue/sealant to join the sides. use minimal wood screws and always drill a pilot hole. the right wood glue will be stronger than screws and will not split the wood like screws.

if you decide you dont like how your box sounds then you can look at building a different size/type but it is really based on personal preference. when you go larger with your box your subwoofer becomes more efficient and requires less power.

i have a mofo 15 in a 3.746 cu ft box (net volume). built exactly to spec tuned to 35.6hz. it gets really loud around 36-45 hz but below that bass is nearly non existent. according to winisd my box will reach 124 db at 42hz with 1700 watts but sharply decrease on either side. which is also what i have experienced with it listening to it the past 2 years. winisd doesnt take into affect the cabin gain of my explorer.

I just got done designing my new box. Took me several weeks to come up with a good design that has reasonable volume that wont take up my entire trunk, has a good deep and flat bass response and still be loud. my new box is going to be around 5.6 cu ft net volume tuned to 22hz allowing me to hit 116db 25hz - 80hz constant according to winISD with just 800 watts of power before reaching maximum excursion of my speaker. of course that does not take into affect how it will sound in my ford exploder either so its hard to tell how it will sound. it probably wont be a flat response. I hope it sounds better but only one way to find out. besides a sheet of mdf costs $35. glue/screws/paint come out to around $35 or so as well.

so my advice is to build the box to spec. several months down the road if you dont like how it sounds, learn to use winisd (free program) to design subwoofer boxes and compare your current box and adjust how better you want it to sound with a new box. ie if you want it louder (spl) or if you want it to sound deeper.

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