I have recently acquired a 4-5 foot ball python snake. Definitely domesticated.?

Royal or ball pythons are one of the most easiest snakes to care for. All you need is a 10 gallon tank (for a baby, over 2.5-3ft ft should be in one no less than 30 gallons) a heat pad for under the tank, a red light (red or blue is best for nocturnal snakes like ball pythons) substrate 2-3 inches covering bottom so snake can burrow, a hiding spot, a water dish big enough to soak in but heavy enough to not be tipped and various rocks/driftwood for decoration and to rub against to aid in shedding. Ball pythons are ground snakes so you don't need lots of things for climbing so a long shorter tank will work best. Humidity should be at 50% to 60% but higher when the snake is shedding. Hydrometers can tell you the tanks humidity levels. When in shedding, try putting a plastic container large enough for to fit, in your cage. Cut a hole in the lid and put in damp paper towel to make a cheap humidity box. Also, dry bathing your snake in lukewarm water for 15 minutes a day. The larger the water dish, the more humidity you will get. Placing the water dish in a warm area (over under tank heat pad or under light) of the enclosure can increase the effects. You can decrease this by covering half, but no more than that, of the cage top with some water proof material. Plexiglass, and wet towels have been used. By covering the top of the cage on the side where you have the water dish, you will greatly increase the efficiency of your setup. The best way to help keep your cage at the proper humidity levels is to spray the cage once or twice a day with room temperature water. Lightly mist the entire enclosure, including substrate and cage walls. The substrate that you use in your enclosure can significantly effect the humidity in the cage. If you want to increase and maintain higher levels of humidity try using orchid bark,cypress mulch coconut musk, various mosses. Pine and cedar shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating and they contain chemicals that cause respiratory and other problems. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. 79F to 85F degrees during the day, with a basking spot of 85F to 90F. At night, heat should drop no lower than 72 F. Tank should be split from hot side to cool side. Two hiding spot at each end is best so your snake won't have to choose between shelter and comfort.Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" (2.5 cm) above the enclosure floor, and the other 1" (2.5 cm) above the floor in the basking area. Don't try to guess the temperature - you will either end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating. All pythons, especially ball pythons, are very susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. A half-log is available at pet stores (Do not use pine or cedar) An empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Ball pythons prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also like to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make too big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your ball will enjoy hanging out in the "tree." Ball pythons (depending on age and size) generally need one adult mouse a week; if you have a bigger snake you can try feeding it a size appropriate rat or a couple mice in one feeding. If you have a younger, smaller snake, feed it size appropriate mice every 7-10 days.Generally, ball pythons tend to eat bigger meals when they are fully grown but don't need to eat as often. You can try frozen, pre killed or live mice. Feed snake in a seperate container and not it's habitat. If mouse isn't eaten after 20 minutes, try again later. If you are having problems with feeding, try googleing ball python feeding options.Some snakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten. Some pythons refuse to eat domestic mice and must be fed feeder lizards, which can be bought online or in some pet shops. Do NOT leave snake and mouse unattended, mouse could attack and kill your snake. It only takes ONE correctly placed bite to kill your snake.

Hmmm, I'm wondering how did you " Acquire " this snake ( oops nevermind I just now am seeing the Additonal Details ) the care is not all that difficult but it has some rules - like no handling for @ least 24 hours after a feeding or shed & if they don't eat for a month or more, no worries, it's not uncommon or harmful ) ... unless you live in their native land they are all usually " Captive Breds " or illegally imported ... and nothing should ever be taken from the wild ... also they wrap around the neck cuz it's easy and warm not because they're being " Friendly " reptiles are not the friendliest of pets like dogs or cats ... but they do have special requirements like warmth , BP's like 90 degree's or warmer, a hidey beings they're kind of shy & like to hide in dark places, plus if it's outside in an all glass tank you have to careful about sunshine roasting the snake & moisture build up ... especially with desert type snakes like BP's are and @ this size the best food is freshly killed or frozen / thawed adult mice - never feed reptiles anything live or they can become the food causing injury & even death !! You might also benefit from a good reptile site & store, with care sheets called eastbayvivarium.com as well ! Take Care

Ok, why did you get a snake and not read up about the care?

You need to feed the snake every 7-10 days.

Feed it frozen/thawed rats of the proper size...it should be the same size as the widest part of the snake.

No, it's not safe to get it out 5-6 hours after feeding...more like 36 hours.

That heater isn't going to provide the proper heat. Get an under-the-tank heating mat designed specifically for reptiles. It should be underneath 1/3 of the cage. Get a thermostat to keep the heat mat from getting too hot.

And lastly, PLEASE do extensive research on ball pythons. There are many care sheets and good books out there, so there is NO excuse.

4 Foot Ball Python

If its a kitten, yup that snake could kill it. Ive seen some heavy duty five foot balls pythons, and they would without question kill a kitten. Not sure what type of bread of kitten would weigh 4lbs. Thats a huge kitten. 10lbs cat is a big cat. But i would be scared for the safety of my full grown cat around a full grown ball.. And vise versa. If the ball doesnt get the hind legs tied up he could suffer awefully. Snakes do kill animals they cannot consume. They dont use measuring tapes. Your kittens and cats are not safe with a full grown boid on the loose. No matter ball, rock, boa.

4-5 ft? That sounds a bit big , as 4 ft is usually the longest of average BP's. I have only had 1 snake that got over the 4 ft mark.

But to stay on subject, a heater blowing on the tank, NO

playing with them to the point you are worried about playing with them after they have eaten NOT COOL

if you just fed this 4-5 footer , hopefully 2 large feeder rats, that snake sounds a bit large. You shouldn't be messing with it. After you eat a big meal, get your belly all fat, Im sure you dont want anyone man handling you all around. It hurts them, badly. I mean its obvious they dont chew, handling after eating may cause them to regurgitate the meal they just struggled to get into them.

Next , NOT TO BE RUDE, but why do you have a life that is solely dependent on you to ensure its survival, with no knowledge of how it survives, nor the materials to provide a healthy life for it?

You got a snake before having the proper environment for it? 0.0 poor snake

It may be an experience to you, but that is the snakes life, that it seems, will have to endure, instead of enjoy.

BP's dont really need to be imported, thanks to the large number of local breeders. Im thinking you might even have a different type of python all together. I mean hell you dont even know for that matter.

get 200$ go buy under tank pad, thermostat, 2 thermometers, 2 hides, 1 heavy *** water dish, 2 books on Pythons, 3 local vets locations and numbers. Take your snake to the vet and get a check up. Stock up on cleaning supplies, and 1st aid (for your snake) build her /it a HOME, since you talk of imprisoning, I mean keeping it. Give it a place to relax after you manhandle it. You might be one of the rare who actually gets bitten all the time due to not knowing what you are doing, causing your snake to be uncomfortable and partially insane from fear.

Im not joking, keep that pace you are going at up, and make a posting 2 months from now and tell us all how many times it snapped or actually bites you from now.

So I just gave you the #1 answer man. Get yo sh17 together and take care of your child.

The snake cant talk, cant open doors, go to the fridge. Thats now YOUR job to pay attention to your friend. Dont ignore her/it, cuz itl come back to hurt and haunt you.

Best wishes,

Good luck,

Do the right thing for the snake.

reptileforums.co.uk

Join that and people on there will know everything.

You need a ceramic heat bulb with a guard or a heat mat not the heater you currently have as that won't heat him well enough. You heat source needs to be thermostat controlled. You need to check your temps and ensure there is a gradient between warm and cool end.

48 hours after feeding before handling again. I'd say feed every two weeks or so for an adult. Well thawed rats I believe for Ball Pythons.

They tend to require more than people think they do and cost more than you think they will! If you need to rehome him again send him this way!!!

Good luck.