1997 Ford Ranger dies/runs rough?

Well it looks like your next step is going to be to check the Camshaft timing:

1. Check the valve timing, as it very easy to get it wrong on this engine. The upper (camshaft) sprocket, and the middle (intermediate shaft) sprocket are identical, and have the same three "timing marks" on their backing plates. One is a diamond mark, one is a triangle mark, and the third is a divot in the backing plate. The divot is the most easily seen, but it is not really a timing mark at all. On the top sprocket, the triangle mark is used, and is lined up with an identical triangle mark on the engine front cover at about the 5 o'clock position. On the middle sprocket, the diamond mark is used, and is lined up with an identical diamond mark on the engine front cover at the twelve o'clock position. This is all done, of course, with the crankshaft at #1 cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) (crankshaft keyway straight up and circle mark on crankshaft sprocket aligned with the notch on the engine front cover at about one o'clock).

You have done what many people do--throw parts at it, hoping to fix it. I have no doubt that SOME of those parts probably could have used replacing anyway--that being said, have you used any kind of diagnostic test device on the vehicle yet? They are available, and auto parts stores, like Auto Zone, have their own testers to help you get the right parts to fix your vehicle. It will 'flash' certain codes, telling you of problems within the systems of the vehicle, allowing you to get it running better again. Good luck to you!

Ahh, I had the same thing happen to me in my Ford Bronco. Turns out it was the rear idler control switch. I fixed it myself, but it was definitely a pain in the @ss. In order to get at the switch you have to take off your muffler or you could remove the bed of your truck. If your Ranger was like my Bronco, I'm guessing the hex key bolt holding the switch in place is completely rusted out. I had to drill the bolt out and re-tap the hole. The part isn't cheap either. From Napa I think the switch was around $90 or so. Apparently they are supposed to last the life of the vehicle? That's what the Napa guy told me anyway. Good luck!

You are haveing a timeing problem crank to cam , pull #1 plug and get the piston up to top dead center and see where the roter button is .

Yes a fuel cut off change could be inflicting this look under the sprint on the passenger side of the truck pull off the kick panel it must be right there push it down then are attempting beginning the truck.

You are having a timing problem more than likely,,,,,,,,,,,