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How do you test the fuel pressure on a chrysler 2.7l?

I have a 2004 chrysler sebring with the 2.7l engine. it's throwing up lean codes from both O2 sensors, I'm getting p0171 and p0174. I've erased the codes and they come back up. I can start the car up cold, and it will run fine, can drive it on the highway for a while no issues, pull off an exit and as i make a sharp turn, it will just die on me. No sputtering or knocking, it just dies with no warning. Then it won't really start after that, it will turn over but only occasionally starts up for 3-5 seconds then die, never getting above 300 rpm. You have to leave it alone for an hour or two, then it will start up and go with a rough idle and acceleration. I don't work around these v6 mopar engines but from what i've read it is complete crap(water pump leaking causing sludge in the oil, computers needing updates, needing to replace crank and cam sensors with oem parts, etc). It can be anything wrong with this thing. I figure it can be the camshaft sensor, fuel pump, computer, map sensor, coolant temperature sensor(I'm not getting overheating from the gauges but again it can be a bad sensor), air temperature sensor, vacuum leak, or fuel filter. I know there is no maf sensor and the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump for this model (don't know who's bright idea that was) You could make the argument that i need to replace the oxygen sensors but I find it very hard to believe that the sensors would crap out on both banks at the same time. Could also say check the air filter but i already did. I think its a faulty sensor, my dad believes that the pump is going out and losing pressure after the pump motor heats up. I figure I would cover the basics of making sure i have fuel, air, and spark delivered, so I want to check the psi on the fuel pressure first. I figure check the psi before I run it hot and and check it again as it dies on me. However in the infinite wisdom of cost cutting, chrysler didn't put a schrader valve on the fuel line. Supposedly I'm suppose to get a special attachment to adapt a regular fuel pressure gauge to get a reading. Where do I get this special attachment? Does O'reilly rental fuel pressure kit have this attachment? Do you even use the normal quick detachment tool on this fuel line? because it doesn't look like other ones i've done. Is the specialty tool so expensive or hard to get that I should just put a fuel soaked rag to the throttle body to see if it starts with excessive fuel available after it dies?

anybody out there with experience on this motor have suggestions to what is the most likely culprit to my problem, or help on how to test the fuel pressure on this thing? Any and all suggestions with an explanation for your reasoning is welcomed, thanks in advance guys.

2 Answers

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  • 8 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    They didnt do it to cut cost. They did it to keep people like you out of the fuel system. If you go and buy a master fuel injection tester it will have the attachment. Or your local dealer probably charges no more than 80 dollars for a diag which is well worth it. These stalling problems are different on every car which makes it impossible to diagnose yours via internet. I have seen bad crank and can sensors, bad o2s, poor vattery connections, bad pcm connectors, heck one time I even had a bad left headlight groynd cause it so good luck.

    Source(s): Cjdr mastertech
  • 6 years ago

    It ended up being a bad fuel pump. The fuel pump got hot then the pump motor would quit and I would loose fuel pressure. The car was constantly driving down a gravel road where dust would get near the gas cap, so when they went to fuel up, dirt would fall in. Eventually enough dirt got into the tank to clog the fuel pump. Had to drop the tank to replace the pump and clean out the fuel tank.

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