AnAnimal

Also, is it the same transmission for 4WD and can it be used interchangeably with RWD?

I've got a good transmission sitting in the garage and seeing what I can put it in if I buy a vehicle with a bad one.

It is a pretty interesting transmission from an engineering standpoint.

The few times I've repaired ceiling fans with a capacitor, the capacitor was obviously faulty. I checked this capacitor but it visually look fine. Is it the 3-speed switch then? I'm going to double check the connections and see if wires are hot. Is there a way to check the capacitor with a multimeter to verify it is still good?

The model number is mvwx600xw1. I've read that the usually the lock mechanism is a culprit but the lock works but the washer gets stuck on sensing, counts down but never fills with water. I've checked the screens to see if its clogged. I've run the self diagnostic but I can't seem to get the dial to turn to "01" and press "start" after its completed the test. I hear water come out into the basket when its running tests.Am I missing a step to get error codes. I tested continuity on the lock mechanism. I decided to replace the actuator since it didn't seem to be the lock.

I have a 2004 Ram 1500 with 5.7L hemi that needs a new motor. I know you can't use the 5.7L with the multi-displacement feature. Can I swap any year 5.7L from any model (RAM, Jeep, charger, durango) with my truck? I know revisions were made on the 5.7L in 2009, does this make a difference. I was also told you can't use a 5.7L out of 2500 ram. I don't know if I should believe that since I wasn't told why, the only thing I can think of is PCM or if a different transmission was in the 2500 (Allison?). I typically work on GM so I'm not too familiar with all the options and compatibilities.

I was looking into buying a cheap used laptop that I could upgrade to and was trying to use benchmarks to see what the difference between the graphic cards would be but I couldn't determine one of them on the graph. I found out that the laptop has a radeon hd 6520G but there is a 6520G card and a "7900mod 6520G card" listed on the benchmark graph.

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/mid_range_gpus.h...

The 7900 mod is listed much higher on the graph. What is the difference between the two? Why do they share a very similar name? Seems confusing to me. Is there any way to exactly figure out which GPU is in the laptop? Is there not much difference between the two when it comes down to it on performance?

I have a 2004 grand prix that has the sunroof is leaking. I noticed the head liner was damp and the driver's floor had a puddle from heavy or prolonged rain, so i figured that the tube was disconnected. I get the headliner down and the tube is fine. I decided to blast the drain tubes with my air compressor and run thick weedeater line down the tubes. Nothing really there to clog it. I decided to blow the two front drain tubes by mouth, the passenger side had free flow, while the driver side had noticeable low flow.

I figure that the driver's drain tube isn't draining fast enough with heavy rain and backs up the overflow through the sunroof. It doesn't seem to explain the amount of water that ends up on the driver's floor board though.

Where does the driver's drain tube end? How do I gain access to it? I read that sometimes the rubber tube lies flat against the kick pad foam and causes low flow. What is the kick padding? I don't see anything apparent underneath the carpet behind the peddles. Is it referring to the padding behind the parking brake lever and hood release lever? I tried to look for video or a walk through with pictures on the web but with no luck. I feel like posting a youtube video for this once I figure out how to fix it.

I have an 81 GS550 that I recently cleaned out the carburetors and just needs a synch. I can't get the bike to start cold without a little fuel poured into the air box. I drove it around town to see if any issues arise. When I drive it for a moderate amount of time, it gets harder to start it. If I drive it continuously for about an hour, it doesn't even want to start when the engine is running hot. The starter will turn over but nothing more, I tried putting some fuel in the air box and it doesn't help anything. That being said I would assume that fuel delivery is not the issue and would think I'm not getting good spark after the motor warms up. Anyone have experience with these suzuki's or an idea of what my issue is?

I have a 2004 chrysler sebring with the 2.7l engine. it's throwing up lean codes from both O2 sensors, I'm getting p0171 and p0174. I've erased the codes and they come back up. I can start the car up cold, and it will run fine, can drive it on the highway for a while no issues, pull off an exit and as i make a sharp turn, it will just die on me. No sputtering or knocking, it just dies with no warning. Then it won't really start after that, it will turn over but only occasionally starts up for 3-5 seconds then die, never getting above 300 rpm. You have to leave it alone for an hour or two, then it will start up and go with a rough idle and acceleration. I don't work around these v6 mopar engines but from what i've read it is complete crap(water pump leaking causing sludge in the oil, computers needing updates, needing to replace crank and cam sensors with oem parts, etc). It can be anything wrong with this thing. I figure it can be the camshaft sensor, fuel pump, computer, map sensor, coolant temperature sensor(I'm not getting overheating from the gauges but again it can be a bad sensor), air temperature sensor, vacuum leak, or fuel filter. I know there is no maf sensor and the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump for this model (don't know who's bright idea that was) You could make the argument that i need to replace the oxygen sensors but I find it very hard to believe that the sensors would crap out on both banks at the same time. Could also say check the air filter but i already did. I think its a faulty sensor, my dad believes that the pump is going out and losing pressure after the pump motor heats up. I figure I would cover the basics of making sure i have fuel, air, and spark delivered, so I want to check the psi on the fuel pressure first. I figure check the psi before I run it hot and and check it again as it dies on me. However in the infinite wisdom of cost cutting, chrysler didn't put a schrader valve on the fuel line. Supposedly I'm suppose to get a special attachment to adapt a regular fuel pressure gauge to get a reading. Where do I get this special attachment? Does O'reilly rental fuel pressure kit have this attachment? Do you even use the normal quick detachment tool on this fuel line? because it doesn't look like other ones i've done. Is the specialty tool so expensive or hard to get that I should just put a fuel soaked rag to the throttle body to see if it starts with excessive fuel available after it dies?

anybody out there with experience on this motor have suggestions to what is the most likely culprit to my problem, or help on how to test the fuel pressure on this thing? Any and all suggestions with an explanation for your reasoning is welcomed, thanks in advance guys.

I wish to write a few reviews through the maps app on my android but everytime i click on "write a review" it tells me "login failed" I thought logging into lattitude would solve the issue but it didn't work. How the hell do you log in?! I've tried using the help button and a quick search on the web and through this database. Maybe I'm just an idiot, but thanks in advance.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the 4 carbs on a motorcycle. I've never sync carbs before but I understand the fluid dynamics concepts of it all and I am tempted to build my homemade carb synchronizer than spend $80-$100 on a manufactured one.

My question is it more important to get the carbs synched up to a specific pressure or does it not matter at what pressure you sync them at?

Do I need to get a manual for the specific pressure to set it at or does just the act of synchronizing is all that matters?

A really heavy object landed on my laptop and crashed the hard drive. I know this because I have an external hard case for internal SATA hard drives and the hard drive didn't work once it was put in. I have a gateway nv52 series that originally had 320GB capacity. I was thinking of upgrading the hard drive to 750GB but no OS comes on it. Can I just use Gateway's factory back up cd's to upload the OS or do I need to have an OEM 320GB drive put back in? Or what I am asking about using gateway back up cd's even possible with a replacement hard drive?

I plan on buying stripper clips for the 5.45x39 ammo but I was wondering if there was a pouch or chest rig for carrying it? I have a 7.62x39 ak and keep a chinese sks chest rig filled with loaded sks strips with a stripper guide for filling my magazines. I know that the 5.45 stripper clips hold 15 rounds so using a sks chest rig would protrude out and wouldn't be able to close the flaps. Did the russians or any of the com bloc countries make anything for this? If there is not, any suggestions to use something that will get the job done?

I am interested in getting one of these and I know that there were some sold already converted to 9x19. I found a couple of manufacturers that make the barrels. How easy is it to swap the barrel? Punch a pin out and twist off? What else would be needed to convert it? Are the original magazines used for 9mm conversions? If so, are there feeding issues?

You may ask 'why convert it?'. I already have a norinco barrel and bushing for my tokarev so why not be able to convert this weapon when 7.62x25 becomes hard to find. I want a shoulder weapon that compliments the tok. Which brings to the idea of undoing the welding of the stock and putting a 16" barrel on there. I know it would look weird with the long barrel but I don't want to deal with the short barrel taxes. If it takes too much to undo the welding then I guess the next best thing is to buy a kit or put a sling on it and use it to steady the weapon while holding it like a pistol with two hands.

I also realize that there were quite a few issues when these things when they first came out but what demilled com bloc weapons didn't when they first hit the market? (AK's, ppsh-41, Polish Tantals) There is a trusted dealer I use that has gotten a new batch of this stuff so I'm assuming some issues have been addressed. However, any one with experience on the early or current production and has advice on what to watch for or modify to avoid headaches would be greatly appreciated.

I know that this bike can get in the 40 mpg range in decent city driving but what kind of highway mpg does it get? I had a 96 seca II that got upper 40's mpg city and low 60's highway (usually going 90mph on a long road trip). I would like to get something like this but I know wanting a 30 year old motorcylce of this size engine to get 60 mpg is most likely unrealistic. Any tips and known issues with this model would also be appreciated also. I read that the gs series of this era were very cold blooded but depending on the year, it may not be an issue.

I have run across one that has been sporterized (rather roughly) and is missing the bolt. If the price is right, I was thinking of getting a stock off ebay and find a bolt. What would the value be after getting it in working order?

I have a 98 deville that is overheating and all roads point to the dreaded stripped cylinder head bolts of the Northstar, Paying the dealership to fix it is much more than the car would be worth. However if I do it, I would get the car on the cheap (minus my labor). I have proper tools, a dealership manual, and the timesert kit. I was thinking of removing the front engine mount to get it to rotate the the right bank up and access that side that is so damn close to the firewall. Any issues with this idea like messing with the subframe before removing the mount, crushing anything, or bending exhaust pipes? Please don't tell me this can't be done, yes it is a complete b**** to do it this way but a guy on youtube was able to put timeserts on a Northstar while the engine was in the car(he didn't respond to any comments on youtube). I also don't have access to a car lift to do the subframe procedure.

I have a couple of pin hole rust spots in a roadrunner gas tank. Since i'm on a budget at this point, spending $30-$50 bucks versus $200 for a new tank is not bad if it buys me a few years of use before issues arise (I have an in line filter put on before the fuel gets to the carb and so I can see it when I pop the hood) . What is the best product? What do radiator shops use? My dad is a retired mechanic and swears about a marine product he used a few years back and he painted on the outside of fuel tank, but he's too old to remember. I haven't heard good things about KREEM or Red-Kote, is this true? What about Pro 15? Also, I have heard of the handful of screws and shake trick to scrape the tank of inside rust, is this effective or is there a chemical to use for cleaning the tank?