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Elantra stalling coughing shutting off.?
2001 elantra. Replaced every sensor,(EVERYONE), purge valve, fuel pump, and filter,p.c.v. Valve. Plugs wires, coilpack.O2 sensors. Charcoal canister fine, but car still runs great sometimes, then bam! Stalling, coughing, loss of power, total shutting off, starts sputtering. Had it to two garages,of course it did not act up then, and all the computer said ,O2 sensor bank one. If you disconnect battery, then start the 'check engine light stays off for about 5 minutes, or one mile, then back on. As I replaced each sensor, the damned thing ran no better, and no worse! Made no difference whatsoever! Weather, and temp. seems to mean nothing! Runs like dog dirt whether in or out of gear, even in park,and neutral. Tranny sensors new also! Gas cap on or off, no difference! I mean I tried every trick in the book! Even garages couldn't find it. I bought it and a few days later it starts this,and I am stuck with it. Everyone says what a great car these are; could've fooled me! Anyone have any answers, solutions?d me
6 Answers
- 7 years agoFavorite Answer
If theres a hyundai dealership near where you are take your care there, my hyundai had a 7 second crank a garage i took it to spent a month trying to figure out what was wrong and still didnt know, took it to the dealership figured it out within a day plus got all the recalls taken care of. Yes it is a bit more expensive but going to a shop that just specializes in Hyundai is better then a shop that does work with all types of cars. They will figure it out fast for you they will tell you and at that point you can take it to cheaper shop to get it fixed or just have them fix it
Source(s): My car - Paul E.Lv 57 years ago
Sounds like you have your hands very full on this one.
You have done just about everything possible.
I offer a few suggestions on things you have not looked at yet.
First, run the engine at idle speed and spray brake cleaner along the intake manifold gasket to see if the engine speed changes. If it does change then replace the gasket as it has cracked causing a false air signal. This is very very common for the year.
Next check the voltage supply to the ignition coil pack when it is running poorly and sputtering. Should have system voltage regardless of how the engine is running. If the voltage is lower than system, then check the wiring, relays and ignition switch that involved in this system. You could jump battery voltage directly to the supply wire to the coil pack and see if your problem straightens out. That way you will know the problem is upstream of the coil pack.
Final thought for today is your crankshaft position sensor is failing. It is located in the side of the engine block on the front side of the engine nearer the trans bellhousing. I believe the oil pressure switch is right beside it. Check the wiring to the CKP to see if it is brittle or even cracked. Replace it if it is. Also, while the sensor is removed from the engine, you can check the tone wheel on the crankshaft for warpage. The tone wheel is bolted to the crankshaft and should turn in a straight line when you rotate the crank ( removing the spark plugs will make it easier to turn the crank using a 22 mm socket, extension and power bar at the balancer bolt ). I have seen bent tone wheels which can affect signal causing running problems ( not common but I always check it when the CKP sensor is removed to be sure). The most common problem is the CKP sensor as the three wires inside the casing can touch together intermittently causing your engine running problem.
I hope I have given you some new direction to find your problem.
Good luck !
Source(s): 25 year senior master technician - liverhuyen2003Lv 77 years ago
Feel your pain dude. I want to add an idea cause you've replaced most of the things that may have very well be the cause(s):
The temperature switching between hot and cold may have effect some of the electronic components on your vehicle as I've seen from time to time. Things like the CKP (Crankshaft Position sensor) or the ECM (Engine Control Module) Etc. The CKP is easy, most people just replace it if wiring is checked out good. This is the trick that only professional does from time to time to check the ECM for the effection of temperature changing:
Warm the ECM with a hair dryer set at low heat, keep the dryer moving all around until it warm (Not hot) to the touch then install the ECM and see how it run.
Take the ECM back out and put it into the refrigerator until it cold 35 degrees or so and install it and see how the car run with a stone cold ECM.
Whatever The ECM reacts to the temperature change and show the symptoms you have described with your car: You have found the cause of the vehicle problem: It's the ECM ! ...Go to your dealer for replacement and program the new ECM .
Send a message if you need more help. I'll reply. The shop's Foreman just call me on the PA, have to go and see what they need my help for. HTH
- Mr.357Lv 77 years ago
I would go with what the computer is saying. It is too bad you spent all that money without trying to fix the problem. You should unhook the wire going to the oxygen sensors on bank 1 and bank two. Measure the resistance on the sensors and the voltage in the wire going to the sensor with the key on. I am guessing there is a wiring problem going to the bank 1 O2 sensor.
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