How much to feed a standard poodle puppy?

• "How much to feed a standard poodle puppy?"

SLOW DOWN, [Asgar]. You are asking FAR too many "useless" BITS of questions instead of PLANNING and THINKING before you start asking a question.

Each question you ask "costs" you 5 points. As you have already asked 13 in 3 days, that means you have used 63 points so far. (So I don't know how you still have 102 points left!)

I also expect people to punctuate breed-names correctly. The breed you have wasted 4 bitsy questions on is the Poodle - but there are 4 versions of that breed. For Poodles, the SIZE-word goes in front, so on THIS occasion you should have asked about the   Standard Poodle   .

http://www.fci.be/nomenclature/Standards/172g09-en...   lists all 4 varieties, and describes the common aspects before defining the required SIZE of each variety (I hope you know where your software places   .PDF   files).

If you are going to wonder about other kinds of dog, store:   http://www.fci.be/en/nomenclature/   and refer to it BEFORE wasting more points.

I cannot recommend ANY 🐩Poodle unless you can afford to have it's coat trimmed every 4-to-6 weeks.

Be aware that the Standard Poodle is ranked 2nd-most-intelligent of all dog breeds (Border Collies being #1, German Shepherd Dogs #3). And be aware that the INTELLIGENT dog breeds are GREAT at "training" their human unless that human has the sense to join a weekly dog-training club or group and get COACHED there for about a year starting when Pup is 18-to-22 weeks old!

I doubt you HAVE this 🐩puppy yet, but if you do: I HOPE you have had the sense to get one that is REGISTERED with your nation's 1 internationally accepted kennel club (if you are in the USA, ONLY the AKC counts), has both parents and all 4 grandparents certificated with PASS certificates for HD and ED (hip & elbow dysplasia), and comes with a printed & signed GUARANTEE stating the compensation you will receive if your pet has inherited any of the genetic disorders in the 🐩Poodle gene-pool.

Yes, the purchase price of such a pup WILL be much more than from an ignorant BYBer (= Back Yard Breeder) or a con-artist or a puppy-miller. But over their lifetime most dogs cost about the same - the difference being that guaranteed-etc dogs cost it to BUY and thereafter cost little more than food until about the last year of their long life. Whereas the other sources cost you heaps throughout their SHORT life - some from as little as 3 months old - and usually just when you are short of cash!

The size-difference between a 🐩Standard Poodle and a 🐕‍🦺German Shepherd Dog is not much, so if you got a pooch from someone who didn't even supply a Diet Sheet (preferably also with enough of the food it is used to, to last at least a week while it is stressed getting used to YOU and your different routines), study:   https://lesp90.wixsite.com/lorelei-gsd-kennels/adv...   for feeding, for health-checks & vaccinations.

If you HAVEN'T got a pup yet, scroll down to my   CHOOSING a BREED and a PUP    and think HARD! Most people with poorly-bred, poorly-cared-for dogs should NOT have been able to get a dog of any kind.

https://poodlemojo.com/standard-poodle-growth-char...   is one of the sites that suggest the size & weight a pooch SHOULD be at various ages. NEVER let a dog get fat.

😮 I hope you realise that you should - preferably during the first week of a question, but definitely no later than 2 weeks after you asked it - decide WHO tried hardest to help you, then reward that person by clicking the   [Favourite Answer]   button just below the end of that answer. It also rewards YOU by "refunding" 3 of the 5 points it "cost" to ask that question.

Kreaky Kiwi - first pup in 1950, GSD trainer & breeder as of Easter 1968

Look on the bag of dog food & follow the instructions on the bag.

The amount to feed, depends on the age and activity level of the dog.  Reputable breeders give you an INSTRUCTION SHEET with the feeding amounts for the puppy at that specific age - (when bought) and often tell you when & how much to "up" the puppy food, as they age.  They should also tell you the times of day puppy is being fed so you can keep puppy on the schedule it is USED TO. (Puppies under 16 weeks are usually fed 3 meals; approx every 8 hours). The breeder should also TELL YOU what puppy food the puppy is eating at THEIR HOUSE (if not give you some) so you do not need to guess or change it - and upset the digestive tract of the pup. 

If you adopt a dog from a rescue and it is a grown dog they should tell you again - what food brand, and how much in cups or partial cups the dog is getting (usually being fed TWICE a day about 12 hours apart).  Dog food bags will also give you a GUIDE (printed on the back) based on weight and age, but it is PADDED on the heavier side and is only a guide. Very few (if any) dogs need as much as the dog food company "recommends".

If you bought from a reputable breeder, although how much can be difficult, you should have been given a diet sheet and a small supply of the food the puppy has been eating, or information about that so you could buy in a supply ahead of time.   In general go by the recommended amounts on the bag, although from experience, they tend to suggest you feed more than necessary - mine would explode if I fed them what is suggested.

Basically the rule of thumb would be as much as the puppy eats up, leaving none.   If he leaves some, cut back.   And it would depend on his weight over time too - you should be able to feel the ribs but not see them.

Err on the more side during the max. growth period and be ready to cut back if the puppy starts carrying too much weight.

An 8 week old puppy should be having 3 meals a day, breakfast around 7 am, lunch around noon and the third meal before 5 pm to give it time to be digested before bed.�� Some puppies benefit from a (goats) milky drink before bed, around 10 pm.

As much as it wants to eat.