Erik

Hello Internet. I intend to move our family out of my home state in the frozen north to a more agreeable climate. Due to a myriad of reasons including proximity to family I have narrowed it down to either Kentucky or Tennessee. Looking for reasons from people who live/have lived in either state. Discuss.

I am trying to figure out how to lay out my basement plumbing, and I wanted to use a double wye to connect my shower, toilet, and sink to the existing waste system in the house.

My question is, am I allowed to have the vent plumbing be behind a double wye since all 3 fixtures combine at this one point? Or am I required to have each fixture individually vented and then join the vents later into one common vent?

All of this work will be under the concrete slab. I am connecting to the existing waste system that runs under the concrete slab.

The existing waste system is connected to all the fixtures on the 1st floor (toilet, tub, sink, kitchen sink) of the house and then travels down into the basement, under the slab, and out to the road. This system is vented through the ceiling.

I should probably also ask if I even need to vent this new basement bathroom separately, or if the current venting system would be sufficient.

Picture: http://i.stack.imgur.com/QWBW1.png

I would appreciate if i could get an answer from an actual HVAC installer or plumber who knows this stuff.

I have installed water heaters before and I am considering installing a new gas water heater in place of my current electric one. Both of these would be located in the basement.

My home currently has a forced air gas furnace that is vented directly to one side of a chimney. It is a fairly typical model furnace (10-20 years old) that pulls in fresh air from ducts in my kitchen and hallway upstairs.

I am wondering if it would break any building code rules for me to cut a second hole on another side of this chimney to vent my other heater.

This would mean 2 gas appliances are venting to a common chimney.

I live in Wisconsin and the building codes here (SPS 323.155) (https://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/code/admin_code/s... seem to indicate that this would be OK as long as I buy the correct kind of water heater and vent on a different side of the chimney.

I know this can potentially be very dangerous if done incorrectly. I intend to do it correctly. Part of that is asking questions such as this. Please spare me from comments about how dangerous this can be if done wrong. I fully understand the risk of carbon monoxide. Thank You.

About once a month some kids and their friends who live in our neighborhood will line up at the stop sign in front of my home and drag race out to the main road. (I am pretty sure they are from around my neighborhood because it is not a likely place for them to just be driving through. Think like deep in a suburban sub division.)

They always take off too soon for me to get any vehicle description. By the time I hear them and get outside to look they are way down the road.

I live in a very sleepy neighborhood and have a child who will soon be playing in the front yard. I don't want him getting killed by idiot kids and their cars.

One day I will get the licence plate of these people by following them with my car if I have to. My question is, what do I do once I have that information?

I have a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu with factory installed remote start. I have tried to look up a solution for this online but was not able to get a clear answer on what the problem could be.

I follow the procedure for the cars remote start feature to the letter and the cars panic alarm goes off every time.

Does anybody know why this would be or how to fix it?

Thanks.

Seriously. Look at this stuff. It costs like $600 - $1000 for a standard egress window well. Just a steel regular non egress window well costs like $15 - $40. Why do they cost so much? Does anyone know where to get a good deal on one of these?

I just can't justify spending $1000 on a piece of plastic I stick in the dirt.

Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...

Menards:

http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=egr...

I have 3 Cast Iron Pipes in my basement for waste water. 2 are used and I know one of them is for sewer. The other may be for rain water or sewer, I am not sure. The third one is the question.

It is capped in the floor and I don't know if it is sewer or drainage. I have drain tile in my home and a sump pump so I am not sure. I would like to make it a toilet if it is for sewer service but I don't know which it is.

How can I figure out if this is a sanitary or a storm drain? Would i have to call the city or have a plumber verify it for me, or is there a way I could know which type of drain this is?

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/attachment.php?att...

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/plum...

I want to finish my basement (it was "finished" but was done wrong so I had to rip everything out) and I need to install a product over the concrete floor to act as a sub-floor.

My question is, do I frame the basement walls first and then lay down this sub-floor product inside borders of the sill plates, or do I install this product first and then frame my basement walls on top of them?

I would think I would frame the walls all the way to the ground so they would hold securely, but then the DRIcore product is going ot raise the level of the floor and my sill plate is going to be a very skinny surface to attach drywall to.

I guess I am just confused about the order to install Basement walls and floors. Wall First or Floor First?

Pictures for reference:

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&q=Dricore&b...

I have a basement wall (cinder block) that is beginning to bow in the middle from soil pressure outside. I see many contractors offering solutions like the ones I have listed below. I have done concrete and foundation work before so this would not be difficult for me. The problem is, where do I find the hardware?

http://www.pepwaterproofing.com/UserFiles/Image/fa...

http://www.thereinforcer.com/theforce.htm

I have searched the internet trying to find out where I could buy this hardware. It looks like very simple hardware and should not be that hard to find, but nobody sells it. What is the big deal? Does anybody know where I can purchase this hardware as a consumer without going through a contractor? Where do the contractors get it? Is there some reason they don't want an average joe buying this hardware (besides the obvious that they want to charge you insane amounts to do what would otherwise be a very easy job for someone like me).

Could Google be any more insulting or inconsiderate? They do Christmas and birthdays of artists nobody has ever heard of.

And their doodles are regional, so it's not like there is any barrier preventing them from doing an easter message. It would have been best if they had not done one at all, rather than this obvious slap in the face of christians.

I used to watch a movie when I was young, back in the days of VHS tapes. I thought it was the jungle book but I just watched the entire movie and it didn't have the scene I was thinking of.

In the movie there was a scene where the main character was a young boy in the jungle and a group of monkeys captured him. They had dropped him into a hole to keep him as prisoner. At one point he wove a headband out of vines and flowers and the monkeys started fighting over the headbands/crowns so the boy was able to escape.

Am I just crazy or does anyone remember something like this?

I want to consider digging a hole for the foundation of an addition with crawl space to my home. This hole would have to be at least 4 feet deep for the frost line and would have to be the perimeter of the addition so 40 or more feet depending on how big of an addition. My question is, what are my options for digging this monster hole?

I know I can always do the shovel and pickax route. And I know I can rent a mini excavator for about $200 a day from stores. Does anyone have any other inexpensive ways or some creative ideas that I could use to make this job a little easier?

I am considering purchasing a 2001 - 2003 Ford F150 Crew Cab Pickup Truck with 100,000 miles on it. I am looking for peoples opinions out there on the reliability of this truck and if it is a good purchase.

Looking online I see quite a few of these with about 100,000 miles for a sticker price of about $9000. A quick True Market Value search in my area (WI) shows the actual value of such a truck at about $5000 - $6000 which is what I would try to pay.

I know a lot of people out there own these trucks and I would like to ask if you think It would last to say 200,000 miles or more. I read about a spark plug issue with Fords from 1997 to 2008 and wanted to know if anybody has heard of or has had this issue with their truck as well.

I know a truck will take more out of my pocket for gas money, but I am willing to pay so I can have a vehicle that I can haul cargo with and tow a small trailer. I will most often use this truck to go to and from work (about 5 miles) and on the weekends to go back and fourth to hardware stores to buy building materials like 2X4's / drywall / etc. I find myself in need of a vehicle to carry large items maybe once a month and am tired of asking all the people I know to borrow their large vehicles. Time for me to get my own. :)

When I was younger, I was not sure which political party I belonged to and I wanted to know. This was before I was voting age. I went online and took a political party quiz. It asked me a series of questions on what I thought about the size of government, taxes, abortion, immigration, natural security, debt. I answered truthfully and the quiz returned Republican.

I know now that I am a very conservative person. I attend a Baptist church weekly, think global warming is a myth, think the 2nd amendment means what it says, this government is too big, taxes are too high, socialism is evil, and I love conservative talk radio.

In the last few days I have taken a number of these political party calculator quiz's and the thing that always shocks me is this: You can never finish the quiz as a republican. I have taken numerous online quizzes and have finished as a Libertarian 3 times a moderate more times than I can remember, and an independent dozens of times. A few of them even had the audacity to call me slightly left.

Are these quizzes crooked or what? My concern is, are new young voters possibly using the results of these quizzes to discern their political affiliation. They take these quiz's and are told they are moderates or independents or slightly liberal. You just can't seem to get the word 'conservative' out of these quizzes. I think the results of these are bent and if people use them to affiliate themselves with a party they may be being misled.

I want to build a computer and I have a few builds that I can't decide between. It is my first build and I am hoping someone with more experience can help me out. I already have a 1TB Hard Drive, Power Supply, And DVD Drive from another comptuer that should all work. They are all sata, and the power supply is a 500Watt. I am building this to play games (like skyrim) and to do work. I am a programmer and sometimes run virtual machines and CPU intensive programs.

Option 1 - Buy Parts Seperatly

-Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core $229.99

-ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS $174.99

-Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX 8GB Desktop Memory Kit - DDR3, (2 x 4GB), PC3-12800, 1600MHz, CL9, Intel XMP Ready $39.99

-GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card $179.99

-Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans $49.99

Total: $674.95

Option 2 - Buy A Barebones Kit

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTool...

-Comes with My I5 Processor, Motherboard(A different variation of the one above), Case, Power Supply (that I don't need), only 4GB of Ram. $499

-Would have to buy Graphics Card $179.99

-Would want to buy 8GB Ram to Replace $39.99

Total: $718.98

So my question becomes, is it risky to buy the parts seperatly and hope they will work together in option 1, or is it worth the extra $43 to get the kit and be more or less sure that all the parts will work together. (And is this the case?). I have reachearched the options 1 parts farily well and they should all work together, but if anyone has any reason otherwise I would very much like to know.

Thanks for any and all opinions.

URL's Of Parts I am buying:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTool...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

URL of Kit:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTool...

I have a 1998 Toyota Camry LE. It came with a key-less entry and I can not figure out what the second button on the thing does. Things like this drive me crazy. Does anyone have this car and know what this mysterious second button does.

Here is a picture of what it looks like. It basically only has 2 buttons. The top one locks and unlocks the doors. The bottom one does not appear to do anything when i push it.

http://contentimages.shops.godaddy.com/shop7704648...

**I know chlorine gas is very dangerous. I am very aware that it will kill you quickly if you inhale it. If you create chlorine gas by mixing ammonia and bleach, is there a safe way to neutralize it?**

I've looked on the internet and I have never found a really good answer with a solid explanation. Does anyone know of a good way to neutralize the deadly effects of chlorine gas and turn it into something harmless?

Some of the ways I have found are...

1) Just Plain Water. I am kind of suspicious of this one though, as it is used in the creation of chlorine gas when you mix ammonia and bleach.

2)Hydrogen Peroxide. You know, the stuff you put on cuts to clean them out. If it works, I would like to know how, and why.

3)Sodium thiosulfate. The main ingredient in hand warmers. The only problem with this one is, I probably wont have access to large amounts of it unless I buy lots of hand warmers. Those things are expensive too.

I have a Dell XPS M1530. I think it is a great computer and all, but sometimes the processor get really hot, like too hot to touch. I seriously doubt anybody will have any specific answer for me, but I would really like to know if this happens to other people.

I am not new to computer either. I know how they work, so answers like "you need to defragment" or things like that wont help me.

I've opened the task manager a few times to see what is using all of my processor, and there is never any application using more than a couple of percent, but when I check the usage it sometimes peaks at 100% and stays there for a few seconds. This of course freezes my computer.

I've done virus checks and system cleanup before too.

I would just really like to know if this is common to this type of computer, or if I have something wrong specific to mine that I could have fixed.