MickBeth

Stuck in my head but google only gives me variations of the Sister Sledge song. "We are family" was repeated a few times, the melody was slow, sad almost. Those are the only lyrics I caught, I was outside. Any help appreciated!

I've already found GoodReads and EW's book review site, but that's about it. Any more I should add to my bookmarks? I want to find out about good books, I don't know many other book nerds so word of mouth isn't an option for me.

First--please don't be hostile or say that he deserves it, he's a safe driver otherwise, never got a ticket in his life, but there were circumstances I won't go into.

Basically my dad was driving on the interstate, and thought the speed limit was 75 for some reason. He was going 86 (what everyone else was doing, not a justified reason but it's not like he was going nuts). He got pulled over and it turns out the speed limit was 60. (Like I said, everyone else was going the same speed so it didn't seem like he was speeding by that much at the time/) So 26 over the limit. That translates to a lot of points on his license.

However, I want to know whether it's worth hiring a traffic attorney to fight, because it was out of state so he can't show up to court. The traffic attorney would be about $400.

I want to ask my insurance company how much the added points to his license would affect his insurance if he just plead guilty and paid the fine. If it will go up by more than $400 over the years the points affect his insurance, it may be better to hire a traffic attorney and see if they can reduce the violation and associated points.

But will the insurance company increase his rates just by him telling them he went 26 over, or do they do everything automated by using computers and pulling information from his driving record? So if we fight the ticket and what's on his record is a lot lower than if he plead guilty, do they only use what's on his record?

Thanks.

Basically, I want to know what time I connected to the VPN, and what time it was disconnected. I'm supposed to be on it now, yet when I checked my connection, it looks like it kicked me off. Is there somewhere in the Windows 7 OS's activity viewer that I can figure this out?

I currently work in a tech center in customer service. I could continue working there part time, or I can take the summer off and return in the fall.

I also have an internship offer from a consulting group specializing in matching superintendants/principals with elementary and high schools.

Neither are related to my future career, which I think will be in the actuarial field.

If I take this internship, I won't have as much time to study for the actuarial exam in the fall, or take any classes to strengthen my programming skills. But I don't have any professional experience outside of my tech support job.

Advice?

I'm 20, in Illinois, and I've got my permit but no license yet, I live in the city and have no car to practice with.

That said, I want to buy a used car, meaning that I will pay for it myself.

However, since I don't have a license, should I register it under my dad's name?

Should the title be under my dad's name, too, or can the title be in my name?

If the title is in my name, can my car be added to my dad's insurance plan, with myself added as the primary driver (NOT trying to commit insurance fraud, I live in his household), even though the title is not in his name?

tl;dr Can the title be transferred to my name, and then I go to the DMV and register it and get plates under my dad's name?

Thanks.

I know Paypal and Amazon and eBay weren't affected, but I've ordered things from GrubHub and input my full card number, I've ordered from etsy and many other sites that I'm sure were affected by the Heartbleed Bug, even if they're no longer vulnerable now.

Does this mean that my card number was also accessible because of the vulnerability, and I should change the number?

∃x∈(Q(x) ∧ R(x)) is equivalent to ∃x∈Q(x) ∧ ∃x∈R(x). (Or is it?)

I'm not really sure where to start. Would this be a proof by example, just let x be a number that satisfies the 2 statements?

I guess I'm unsure where to start. I feel like the whole thing is a tautology.

A: There exists an x such that Q and R are true.

B: There exists an x such that Q is true AND there exists an x such that R is true.

In the second statement, does that x-value have to be the same value?

Example:

Q: x>0

R: x>2

For statement A, x=5 makes it true.

For statement B, x=1 makes Q true, but R false. x=5 makes both true. Am I wrong to assign two different values to x, since x is given as one variable?

Are statements A and B logically equivalent, or was I wrong to make that assumption?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

I want to write a story about a woman who agrees to adopt another woman's baby if and only if she signs an agreement forbidding contact with the child. Basically, I adopt your baby, you leave town and never contact him. The birth mother is okay with this because she was going to give him up anyway and trusts this woman more to become the child's adoptive parent. They're not friends or related, and she never wants to be back in that town again anyway.

Is this plausible?

I'm writing a story about a man who doesn't find out he's adopted until he's in his thirties, and the idea is that his adoptive mother adopted him from one of her brothers and never told him about it.

I want it to be believable that he doesn't find out about it until after her passing. I know now that new birth certificates get issued once adoptions are finalized now but I know laws have changed radically since the 70s.

Would lawyers have had to get involved? Or was it simply signing over parental rights to the adoptive mother? If the biological mother isn't related to the adoptive one, does that change anything? Would a new birth certificate and social security number have been issued? This would be an immediately-after-birth adoption.

I appreciate any help you can give me, I don't want to treat such a sensitive subject with disregard as to its accuracy as that would undermine everything. Thanks so much.

There's a used Toyota Corolla for sale with 108 thousand miles, taken care of by a husband and wife who are selling it because they no longer have room for it. It's got a CD player and upgraded speakers, completely new brakes, and just had its oil changed with its brakes a month ago. It's timing belt was replaced at 88,000 miles, the tires were replaced, the Freon in the air conditioner was replaced, and he's got receipts to show everything. He's the original owner for 15 years. It's being offered for $3100. Here's the full listing.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/4057628243.h...

He told me he has an appointment for tonight at 8 for parents buying it for their high schooler. I fully believe that it will be sold to them. It's available to see at 6, but all the auto repair shops in the area close at 5:30 so I can't schedule an inspection before saying yes.

I know that if I do have to schedule an inspection it would have to wait until Saturday, and the 8 o'clock people will buy it before I even have the chance.

Given that it's been taken care of by someone who still has all the receipts, would you risk foregoing the inspection to get this amazing deal?

There's a used Toyota Corolla for sale with 108 thousand miles, taken care of by a husband and wife who are selling it because they no longer have room for it. It's got a CD player and upgraded speakers, completely new brakes, and just had its oil changed with its brakes a month ago. It's timing belt was replaced at 88,000 miles, the tires were replaced, the Freon in the air conditioner was replaced, and he's got receipts to show everything. He's the original owner for 15 years. It's being offered for $3100. Here's the full listing.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/4057628243.h...

He told me he has an appointment for tonight at 8 for parents buying it for their high schooler. I fully believe that it will be sold to them. It's available to see at 6, but all the auto repair shops in the area close at 5:30 so I can't schedule an inspection before saying yes.

I know that if I do have to schedule an inspection it would have to wait until Saturday, and the 8 o'clock people will buy it before I even have the chance.

Given that it's been taken care of by someone who still has all the receipts, would you risk foregoing the inspection to get this amazing deal?

It's got 130,000 miles on the odometer. The seller bought it a couple years ago for his wife to run daily errands, and said it's only been driven about 12,000 miles in the last 1 1/2 years. He says it's not really used much, that it's just sitting outside and only used for random errands and going out to restaurants.

He sort of implied that he didn't like spending money to take care of it, only changing the oil every 5,000 miles, and not getting it professionally serviced, wanting to do things the cheap way. I appreciate his honesty...

Do you think that if I get it inspected by a mechanic and he says it's a good car, I should buy it? If there is anything wrong with it because of how it's been treated, will my mechanic spot it right away? Or might it look okay now and cause me problems later?

It's being offered for 3600, with power windows and remote start, and no rust, and the seller doesn't know the history of the car before he bought it.

Thanks.

This'll be the first car I buy, and I'm buying from private owners on Craigslist. I'm taking all the necessary precautions-- googling phone numbers, asking for VINs, running a Carfax, having it inspected fully by a mechanic-- really doing my best not to get burned.

I'm looking for a sedan to help my insurance rates, and I really don't want a coupe anyway.

I've sort of been avoiding any car with more than 130,000 miles on it, but the more I read up on car-buying, the more I see people advising car-buyers not to worry too much about the mileage but about the state of the engine and the maintenance history, and whether the miles are on the highway or in the city.

I want to maximize the life I get out of this car as I don't have much money to spend to get a new one anytime soon. I'm looking for one between 1998-2003.

I'm in the midwest so we get a lot of snow, I don't know if that's relevant.

I'll be driving it about 10 miles and back, 20 a day, 5 days a week, in 60% stop and go traffic, plus other regular driving around the city.

So, for someone who'll drive about 7,000 miles a year, what should I prioritize when buying a Honda Civic? The miles on it, or the general condition of the car and whether its maintenance is backed by service records? Buy it from someone who's driven mostly highway miles? Avoid city drivers?

I'm clueless and frustrated at this point as I've been at it for months now. I want to be patient to get the best possible car but sometimes I've missed out on really great looking cars that have had 150K on them which scared me off.

Thanks so much.

This'll be the first car I buy, and I'm buying from private owners on Craigslist. I'm taking all the necessary precautions-- googling phone numbers, asking for VINs, running a Carfax, having it inspected fully by a mechanic-- really doing my best not to get burned.

I'm looking for a sedan to help my insurance rates, and I really don't want a coupe anyway.

I've sort of been avoiding any car with more than 130,000 miles on it, but the more I read up on car-buying, the more I see people advising car-buyers not to worry too much about the mileage but about the state of the engine and the maintenance history, and whether the miles are on the highway or in the city.

I want to maximize the life I get out of this car as I don't have much money to spend to get a new one anytime soon. I'm looking for one between 1998-2003.

I'm in the midwest so we get a lot of snow, I don't know if that's relevant.

I'll be driving it about 10 miles and back, 20 a day, 5 days a week, in 60% stop and go traffic, plus other regular driving around the city.

So, for someone who'll drive about 7,000 miles a year, what should I prioritize when buying a Honda Civic? The miles on it, or the general condition of the car and whether its maintenance is backed by service records? Buy it from someone who's driven mostly highway miles? Avoid city drivers?

I'm clueless and frustrated at this point as I've been at it for months now. I want to be patient to get the best possible car but sometimes I've missed out on really great looking cars that have had 150K on them which scared me off.

Thanks so much.

The seller of the vehicle bought the car a week ago but before transferring everything to his name found a car through his mechanic that he preferred. He doesn't want to pay for taxes and plates on a car he's going to sell so it's currently with him but not in his name. (The person he bought it from gave him the title blank).

He's got a carfax which makes me feel better about the history of the car.

I told him I wasn't comfortable doing the whole transaction if the person who legally owns the car isn't present, so he gave the guy a call and the guy agreed to meet us at the DMV and transfer everything to my name from his.

So, I'll be buying the car from one guy but the title change will be from someone else.

How do I handle the bill of sale? What information should I include? Should I ask for a copy of the bill of sale between the two guys, and then on mine, say that both parties agree that I pay the seller the money but have the title changed from the original owner's name?

Please help, and thank you.

I'm looking at 2003 Honda Civics, and I know EX has the ABS and LX doesn't. How much should that influence whether I get a car?

92,000 miles on an LX or 120,000 miles on an EX?

I don't know how to weigh it into my decision. Thanks.

"automatic,new battery

No check engine light.

No oil leaks

Interior is super clean

New tires

Clean title in hand"

Should I ask for the VIN to run a carfax?

Should I ask whether or not they have detailed service records? Oil changes every how many thousand miles? Why it required a new battery, any accidents? Whether it has any loans/liens on it?

I don't want to get scammed but this is my first time buying a car and I don't know how to navigate.

Thanks.

I'm 19 years old and under a lot of stress so it does worry me a bit that it could be more serious.

I had some bad bad Chinese food about 10 pm, slept 3 hours later, and I woke up about 6:30 in the morning with the most intense chest pain I've ever experienced. It didn't really feel like a "burning" sensation, just pain, like something squeezing my heart and entire chest area. I was able to breathe deeply and drink water but nothing helped. I didn't have any pain in my arms or anything like that, it was more concentrated in my chest area and my back and kind of up my neck and shoulders. It really hurt, it doubled me over.

The pain doubled whenever I tried to lay down so I sat on the couch and it still hurt so I massaged my breast bone for about 2 minutes and that seemed to do the trick, although it may have just coincidentally ended at the same time I started to massage the chest bone. I feel fine now.

The reason I didn't immediately call 911 or go to the ER is because I realized this happened to me only once before when I got Chinese from the same restaurant. I've gotten Chinese at other times and have never had an issue, but this specific one caused me 2 bouts of this, although this time was way worse than the first time.

I feel like this is heart burn or maybe acid reflux, and I know this isn't the best way to diagnose myself but I'm wondering if anyone's had experiences like mine or if this is too out of the ordinary to write off. I'm going to the doctor for a check up soon and will bring this up.

Thanks.

I know that the Honda hybrids had issues before 2008 or something like that where some software update caused the batteries to die quickly and replacement costs something in the thousands so I've shied away from buying used hybrids, but I found one on Craigslist, sub-100,000 miles with new battery and new brakes. It's about $6500. Does this sound like a good get or should I stay away?

I'm planning on getting it checked out before any final deals and I'll get the VIN and check the carfax or autocheck eventually but I want to make sure it's not fishy before I take the first step.

Advice?