iRock.

My sister got into an accident in her vehicle in may of last year. Needless to say, since then the whole process has been a headache. The damages totaled $12,800 and the value of the car at the time was $16,000 so they wouldn't total it. Their reason? It's a Honda and hold their value. We knew that they wouldn't be able to properly repaid the car. Well since the first repair (or sloppy excuse of a repair) at the recommended shop, we were extremely displeased. Progressive agrees it was bad, so they took the car to another recommended shop and had all the work redone. This time, the car was repaired but the reprint job was AWFUL. Dirt under the paint and little dings and overspray everywhere. So we call them again, they say they agree it was done poorly again, so we decide to bring it to another shop of our own choice. We get it back, full of overspray and things on the car STILL not repaired. They've had the car for a total of 5 months without proper repairs. We understand it won't be perfect, but if they knew it was going to be this bad, they should've totaled it. Is there a certain legal timeframe they're allowed to repair the car or amount of attempts they can do? My sister has been completely stressed out and I'm tired of seeing her cry when she gets her car back because she knows it'll have to go back to get something else repaired.

Any specific lawyers we can speak to? Thanks!

I own a 2006 Mazda 6i GS. It's NADA is 11,800 retail/ 8,900 clean/ 7,600 fair/ 6,700 rough.

My car has been in 3 minor accidents over it's lifetime. Carfax states it's worth 50 less than book value. Dealer is offering 5,300. Saying its because of accidents. Are they just being stubborn or did it actually diminish my value that much?

I really would like to get 6,500 AT LEAST. Ideally, 7,500. My car has new tires, new alignment, body is literally FLAWLESS, and I got my 75,000 mile service recently done at 60,000 miles.

Should I be able to get over 6k?

I signed a "release of all claims" form after being rear ended. I was not at fault. Prior to the time I signed the form, I saw a doctor who informed me that I had whiplash. I called Progressive and they told me that they would pay for that doctor visit ONLY if I signed the "release." I was told by my chiropractor today, that I ran out of funds in my contract and progressive wont pay anymore. I'm still injured and haven't gotten my full treatment or diagnosis. Doctor thinks I may have nervous system damage due to the accident but can't do anything to diagnose that until we have fully undergone my muscular injuries, to be certain that it isn't just spasming. Now here are my concerns:

1. I released the other driver in the contract, but I don't remember seeing Progressive as a releasee. Does this mean they should continue paying my medical expenses?

2. Since I am still injured from the accident, is there any way to receive further medical payments from Progressive?

3. Am I COMPLETELY locked into that release or are there exceptions?

4. Is it worth getting a lawyer for? Or would it be foolish, considering I signed the release?

I felt pressured to sign that and was in a sense, "tricked," considering they refused to reimburse my medical expense without signing that release. It seems like fraud on their part, but who knows these days.

I'd like some advice from people who know more about diminished value claims and insurance than me..

I live in Louisiana, have Progressive insurance and was not at fault for the accident.

I bought a 2006 Mazda 6 with 58,000 miles and 2 prior accidents. Paid $10,300 for it, market value was $11,400. I was recenty rear ended. Damages total around $2,200 dollars. Car now has 61,000 miles.

I was hit at roughly 10MPH, while my car was at a red light. When I noticed the car about to hit me, I held the brake pedal down firmly.

1. Am I LEGALLY allowed to receive BRAND NEW OEM parts?

2. Will my car value be affected? Even if it's very little, I still want reimbursement. The whole insurance situation has taken 1.5 months and still going. Has been a significant headache and loss of time. If so, what would the amount be/ how can I calculate the amount?

3. Can a rear end accident cause alignment issues? Progressive is arguing with me, saying that my accident wasn't significant enough. My car pulls left and right since the accident.

4. My headlight is off aim since the accident. Once again, they're claiming it can't be due to the accident. Just a "coincidence." I say bull. Can it be caused by the impact?

5. My brakes are clattering when my car steers or brakes, ESPECIALLY at low speeds. Can that be caused by the accident?

My 2006 Mazda 6 power windows are acting funny. All the auto up/down features work, however, when I DONT press the switch all the way down to auto down(car has auto up-down front windows) and I just press it to roll the window down a little, the window stops when its about an inch down, even when holding the switch, and then eventually will go down more after continuing to hold it. Is this normal? Both front windows do it, from both the driver switch and the passenger switch.

I was assuming it was normal, but I've never seen that before.

I'm really freaked out right now. I went to change a side marker light in my car today and doing so, requires taking off a panel to access the light that's in the front bumper.. Needless to say, after I pull the panel back, there are THREE fairly large, unmistakable, brown widow eggs. I live in southern Lousiana and just recently found a black widow in my garage, so finding its cousins children wasn't exactly thrilling. We have an exterminator and our house is only three years old. I'm not worried about the black widows in the garage; they'll die from the exterminator.. But I really need to change the light on my car.

So how do I kill the eggs and potentially the mother? I'm extremely scared of these spiders because I know just how potent their poison is. How long will it take for them to die?

I just recently purchased a used car that was sitting on the lot for about 2.5 months without being driven.. The brakes seem to stop the car well and the brake pedal feels good and normal, however, when applying light pressure, the brakes squeak pretty loudly. The squeak stops if I apply more pressure to the brakes, but they usually only make the noise under soft braking or at lower speeds. I've had the car for two days now.. Do the brakes just need to be used and the sound will go away? Is the sound caused by the car sitting for so long or are they going bad?

There's no vibration or any unusual feeling whatsoever when stopping.

I own a 2003 Mazda 6 with the 2.4l i4 and have been having issues recently.. It has 89k miles on it and I bought it preowned with 86k from a large, reputable, new car dealership. However, I've been noticing strange things recently..

1. At idle, rpm dips to about 750, goes up to about 1300 and then back to 900 - 1000 where it normally is. What can this be?

2. Engine is making a weird sputtering noise at idle and ESPECIALLY when in reverse, while my foot is on the brake. It is VERY evident and sounds like a typewriter mixed with a sewing machine.

3. When passing at higher speeds, the transmission squeaks when shifting gears, usually at about 4500 - 5500 rpm.

4. When exiting the car after driving it, there is a loud squeak from suspension. Is this a bad suspensions or a mount/joint of some sort?

Please help and give any details about how these issues may or may not be related. I dont think my car should be having all of these issues at these miles, considering a friend of mine has the EXACT car with 165k and it runs beautifully. Thanks in advance.

I live in Louisiana, so it might be some underground music.. It's an upbeat rap/hip hop song and in the chorus the guy sings 'shawty got @$$'. Please help! It's killing me.

I have Clean&Clear acne wash and Clean&Clear exfoliating wash. I have mild acne on my face and I love the exfoliating scrub. Which should I use first? Exfoliate then wash? Or wash then exfoliate?

Before I wash my face with either of those products, I use antibacterial bar soap.

I've been looking at these two vehicles for a long time. The Honda is obviously more reliable, but are Mazdas engines reliable also? The Mazda has the price and features advantage, obviously, but the Accord has that legendary engine reliability. I'm so lost. I'm looking at 2003-2007 models of both with roughly 100,000-150,000 miles. I prefer the styling of the Mazda, plus the Accord I like is the coupe, so higher insurance. Will the Mazdas engine still have life in it with those high miles?

Here's two cars.

2003 Accord EX-V6. 151,000 miles $9,995

2003 Mazda 6s. 111,000 miles $9,995

Is it better to buy the lower mileage one?

I'm about to take a bath and I noticed that my bath water has a faint, pink tint to it. I've smelled it and felt it and it seems to be like normal. The water is the toilet is also pink. Is this normal? Is it safe to bathe in? I have city water. Thanks!

I'm about to purchase a 2003 Mazda 6 and I hate having a separate remote and key, because it seems that the remotes always break off. The 2005+ Mazda 6 has a flip style key with an attached remote. Is there any way to get this to work with the 2003 model? Or is there any factory replica flip key that will work with it? I like the look of the Mazda key and I want to keep the factory look to my car. Thanks guys!

I have the Bose 10 speaker system in my 6 however I've noticed recently that the two speakers on the back deck are dead. No sound at all. I almost always have the system volume set to 50-60 when listening to music(it goes to 63). Is it possible I've killed them by having the music set so loud? I own many other Bose products and have never had an issue at full volume..

I've tried fading the sound to the rear and unplugging/replugging; they still don't work. Please help:(

I work at Hollister and I printed my schedule today.. it says I work at 7am on Friday. Can that be right? Our store doesn't open until 9! Thanks for your answers!

I lost my retainer about a year ago and haven't really had the time or money to go in for an appointment. I was wondering if my orthodontist could mold my teeth and possibly get them back to the previous state without getting braces again.. My gaps aren't huge and my teeth are still straight but it is really bothersome. How do orthodontists usually go about this? Thanks!

I'm really scared about this. It smells fishy and I don't know what it is. I AM circumcised so I do NOT have foreskin. The smell smells like tuna and it is beneath the head of my penis. I don't see any rash or any redness at all in that area. I wash very rigorously on a daily basis, especially my penis. I am a virgin so I'm positive it isn't an STD. Someone please help, I'm very scared about this. :(

I recently purchased a 2010 Mazda 6 with the Bose and technology packages. I have a question/concern about the speakers.. The front seat sounds AMAZING but when in the backseat the speakers really aren't loud and the bass bottoms out and it sounds AWFUL. Is it supposed to be like this so the sound is focused towards the front passengers, or not? My sister has an altima with Bose and it sound balanced and great all the way throughout the car.

Thanks!

I was previously looking at a Honda Accord, but I like the style of the 6 a LOT better. Now my question is, what kind of deals are on the Mazda 6? Approximately how much money will the dealership take off with good negotiation? I going to purchase the car in Lafayette, LA if that helps.

I'm looking at the 2010 Mazda 6i Touring and 2010 Mazda 6i Touring Plus. I'd REALLY like to get the Touring Plus because I want the electroluminescent gauges and a MOON-ROOF!

My price LIMIT is $18k. I could more than likely get the iTourning($22k) down to 18 or less, but will I be able to get the iTouring Plus($24k) to 18?

I was also looking at some used ones and I figure that if a 2009 model drops almost $10k, then I SHOULD be able to get 4-5k off a new one. Maybe I'm just wishfully thinking?

-THANKS! :)

It comes with a 160 watt, 6 speaker setup. I DO NOT want to have a subwoofer/ bazooka in my trunk, I value trunk space more than anything. I'm going to keep the tweeters and the factory head unit; I don't like messing with stock things. I have about a $1k price limit. I like deep bass and I really like Klipsch products to give you a taste of my sound preferences. I know that great sound is possible with just door speakers because the Bose system in the Altima ('05-'06) sounds great and it doesn't have a sub.

Thanks for the help guys!