dbm77

I press the power button and nothing happens, with or without battery. I put a meter on the adapter and the voltage is good. But I get no lights of any kind on the laptop when it's plugged in. I held the power button down for 30 seconds with the battery out, which seems to be a common suggestion. No luck. Is my motherboard fried?

I replaced my Trane 14 SEER w/ single speed fan with a Trane 18 SEER w/ two speed fan.  It doesn't have any trouble holding setpoint on cold days and seems to run less than the old unit.  Yet the air is noticeably cooler. I thought a higher SEER unit would get even more heat out of the air.

Trying to install the latest Chrome but keep getting this error. Some forums say delete the Windows/Temp files - which I did - but still getting the error. I'm running Win7 32 bit.

I need to replace a float switch on 220V 1/2HP sewer pump. The pump specs says 6.8 amps at full load. So the float switch appears to cover that load but I'm not sure what the number in parentheses means. Thanks.

I need to replace a 4-ton 14 SEER Trane heat pump system. Got a quote of $8000 to go back with a comparable Trane. (I live in SC). Is that in the right ballpark? Are there other brands I should consider that might be as dependable for less? Thanks!

My Win7 desktop PC died - bad power supply. I removed the hard drive and connected it to my Win7 laptop using a SATA to USB connector. So I can access the drive on my laptop now, but the programs won't run. Looking for *.dll files. How do I move the programs to my C: drive? Or make them run from the E: drive? Thanks.

I have an old HP DC5100 SFF desktop that I still use for low horsepower applications. The power supply fan suddenly ramped up to full speed and when I tried to shut down I got a blue screen and a parity error message. The PC now won't start up. The CMOS battery and memory sticks all check out. All fans are running. There's nothing in the PCI slots. The machine was dust free. But it now stops at "parity error 2" and that's all it will do. Any advice would be appreciated.

I have an aluminum deck which has been pretty watertight except for one area that required a seam. The contractor covered the gap with a matching strip using silicone. The silicone eventually will start leaking after a few seasons of temp swings and foot traffic. What's a better way to seal this seam? Roofing compound? The seam is about six feet long and the gap varies maybe a quarter to a half inch. The decking has a corrugated surface.

It runs ok in reverse. Blades are clear. Run light indicates the head is properly seated on the bin. Paper detection switch is working freely. I don't think it overheated because I wasn't working it that hard and it's been sitting idle for an hour - but it still won't run.

Just thinking about the Kepler mission which uses transits to find planets. What percentage of stars allow this? Is an system's orbital plane just as likely to be perpendicular to us or do they tend to follow the orientation of the galaxy?

I have an elderly relative who needs help paying for assisted living. She has equity in her home but her credit score is too low for her to get a HELOC. I will grant her one myself if it's legally possible. But I want to dole out the money only as needed and obligate her estate to pay me back after she passes.