Tyson H

I just installed about 20' of CSST line to my new cooktop from an existing T in the black steel pipe. I pressure tested it for about 4 hours and saw no change. I turned the gas back on at the meter and tested the cooktop and it worked perfectly. Just for added safety I took a picture of the meter position last night at 5:00pm. I went out and checked it this morning at 9:30am and the 1/2lb meter had moved about one millemeter. Barely noticeable but it did move a tiny bit. In comparison, if I turn a burner on and immediately off the 1/2lb meter spins almost a full 360. degrees. So to only move about 1mm over a 16hr period...would that leak even be detectable?

I can't find anything that says forged or cast anywhere on-line. I am not the greatest golfer and I don't golf enough to pay $1000 for irons but I am tall and would like the angle changed to more of an upright angle.

I have a 1979 Bronco and am having issues with my left rear turn signal and brake light. When I bought the Bronco and first tried the left turn signal the green arrow on the dash just stayed green. Typically, this means a bad bulb, so I checked and replaced both the front and rear bulbs and still a solid green. Right signal works fine, but I changed the flasher anyways just because it was cheap. The front marker comes on when you signal but remains solid. No light in the rear.

I thought it may be a bad ground, so I grounded the rear socket to the chassis and still nothing. I bought a new rear socket because the other one was all crusty and that fixed the problem temporarily. About a month later it started to act up. It would work when I first start the vehicle but then after it got warm it would stop working again, both the brake and flasher. Sometimes, randomly, it will work.

I thought it may be the actual turn signal switch but since the light on the dash turns green I am assuming that is not the problem. If that was not making contact then it wouldn't turn the green indicator on nor the front turn signal.

Here is the oddest part though. I changed the socket on the left rear again just in case I got a lame one on the first exchange but that did not fix anything. I got out my voltage meter and put a brick on the brake pedal and lo and behold, I have 11v or so at the socket. I took the bulb out of the right side because it works fine and put it in the left but not even a flicker.

I took the brick off of the petal, turned on the ignition and turned on the left indicator and tested for volatage and I have 11v again but again, when I put the bulb in nothing happens.

All I can think now is that I have a bad connection or short somewhere that is allowing only a minute amperage through the circuit and as soon as that bulb is installed it shorts out.

Any other ideas? I really hate electrical....

I have a 1979 Bronco with manual locking hubs. When the transfer case is in 2WD or Neutral the front driveline spins. It is friction, because I can grab it and it will stop but it has pretty good force to it. I know that there can be a little friction at times but is it normal to spin quickly like this when the transfer case is not engaged?

I put the rear axle up on jack-stands and put the transfer case in 2wd. Front driveline spins. I grabbed the driveline carefully and it stops but wants to turn ( I can feel it pulling). It does the same thing in neutral. What causes excessive drag on the front driveline? I don't really want it spinning that fast when I am not in 4WD.

I moved my direct tv system from my old house to my new (about 4 blocks). I have 3 recievers and the Genie system. The installer at my house ran the line from the dish to a ground block, from the ground block to a splitter for one line to my living room and one to my bedroom (green directv splitter) and then split one of those legs to my 2 TV's in my living room. I set it up the same, connecting all splitters in the same places he had them before I plugged them in to the main reciever. I got no signal from the dish. I farted around with it a bit and then decided to run one line from the dish to the main reciever and it worked fine and I was able to complete the install and watch TV on the main reciever with a barrell conector. After I got it working I went back out and tried the splitter again, this time just to the main reciever and I lost signal, leading me to believe the splitters are bad.

My question is- What would have caused those splitters to go bad and is there a certain order of installation you need to follow (like does the main reciever need to be unplugged when you hook up the line from the dish? As I mentioned, I used the same splitters the installer used on my old house (2-5000MHz).

I am going to go buy 2 new splitters at Radio Shack.

Oh, one thing I noticed also is that the plastic part inside the splitter is red on the input, red one one of the outputs and yellow on the other output. Is there any significance to that?

Thanks,

I want to add a macro/command button in Microsoft Excel that when I click the button it adds 1 to a referenced cell. I have never written formulas for visual basic.

Step by step on how to do this?

I don't think it is the cord or the safety switches because when it dies if you just leave it and don't touch it it will come back on after about a minute. It acts as if it is overheating and a protection circuit is tripping but I don't think it has one.

I don't think it is the brushes either because there is no sparking and it runs strong.

I have a 1986 Glastron with a 3.0 Mercruiser. The resistor wire between the ignition circuit and the coil fried so I am replacin it with a ballast resitor to drop the voltage fro 12V to 9V so I don't burn up the coil. By the formula I found (Ohms x 2= volt drop) a 1.25 Ohm resistor would work. That is what I bought but it only drops the voltage maybe half a volt.

I though that maybe that resistor was desiged for a lower amperage circuit. It was one for an old 60's truck. If anyone knows the correct way to figure Ohm requirements for a 12 to 9v drop in an ignition circuit (around 10 amps or so) I would appreciate it.

When I start to type an e-mail address in the"TO" section of the e-mail it brings up other e-mails I have mailed in the past. Also, when I synced my G-mail to my android it moved over a bunch of e-mails that were not even on my contact list. Some of those e-mail address are old contacts that I have deleted and don't even want associated with my account anymore. How do I get rid of residual e-mail addresses and keep them from showing up?

I want to put a 2" lift on a 1980 Bronco but it has new shocks and I would prefer to not have to buy new ones. Can you lift a Bronco (F-150) 2" and get away with using the stock size shocks?

I just bought a Dell Photo 996 printer and hooked it up to my home PC via USB. The PC recognized the new hardware and installed drivers. I put new ink cartridges in it but when I go to print a test page it comes up with an error saying it can't print. It won't even print a test page.

I can scan to my PC, I can copy on the printer, I just can't print. The PC detected the printer when plugged in and I even went to the Dell site and installed the current drivers and re-booted my PC.

Also, the ink levels still show empty even though I just bought new cartridges.

Why would it scan, print and be a printer on my control panel printers window but not print?

Is the voltage regulator in the ignition sequence or is it strictly for system charging?

I have replaced the starter, relay, coil, condenser, cap & rotor. I had spark when I changed the condenser and the engine ran for about 6 seconds then would not start. I checked for spark again and had none. I traced wires with my multimeter and when I got to the voltge regulator on the back of the alternator the wires just crumbled and fell apart.

Should I still have spark without a regulator?

I have a 19' glastron with a 3.0 Mercruiser (Volvo) inboard/outboard. It hasn't been started in over 9 years so I began the process of getting it runnig agin. I pulled and cleaned all of the plugs and sprayed a little lubricant in each cylinder to let it soak to the rings in case there was rust or corrosion in there. I put new gas in it and purged the fuel line. After cranking for a bit with no result I decided to check for spark and had nothing. I I removed the grond wire from the battery at the block and cleaned it well, as I know that Boats often have ground issues. Still no spark. I checked the starter relay as a lot of the wires involved in ignition run through that and it crumbled when I put a wrench on one of the terminals. I replaced that. Still no spark. The cap and rotor looked good and the points looked clean and had the appropriate gap (boat ran fine when put in storage). All plug wires were replaced before storage and looked very clean and were seated well in the cap. I checked the voltage at the coil and the input voltage was good. The coil was all rusted and bubbled up, so I repalced it and still no spark. I then replaced the condensor, as that is the last piece in the puzzle and when I had the #1 plug out to check for spark not only did it spark, the boat started to run on 3 cylinders. My wife shut it off and I replaced the plug and the boat fired up but only ran for about 6 seconds before it crapped out again and would not start. I figured I had spark and I had dumped some gas in the carb trying to prime it so that must have been what burned off for 6 seconds, so I then removed the carb and cleaned it well. Still would not start. I checked for spark again and again, no spark. I got my volt meter out and checked the terminals on the starter relay and coil again. I had 4.8 volts to the wire that goes from the relay to the voltage regulator and 5 volts at the coil. I know that the coil runs between 5 and 9 volts but the wire from the relay to the regulator should have read 12 I thought. I reached under the regulator (mounted to the back of the alternator) and the wire going to the relay crumbled and broke into about 3 pieces and sheared off right at the regulator. I ordered a new one but after all my rambling, here is my question:

Since the regulator is primarily for voltage output from the alternator will a bad regulator affect the spark or power to the coil?

If not, could a short at the regulator blow a condenser? How do you test a condenser?

Recap of parts changed:

Starter

Starter relay

Coil

Condenser

Battery

Briefly had spark after condenser was changed, have no spark now. Found bad voltage regulator.

While trying to find out where I had a voltage drop on my 3.0 mercruiser (19' Glastron inboard/outboard) I went to check one of the wires on the alternator and it just crumbled in my fingers and fell apart (which I am sure is why I had poor voltage to my coil).

The part that the wires come out of on the back of the alternator is removeable. I took it off, unhooked the 3 wires that were in the little black case but I can not find that part on-line. I don't even know what it is called. It is black, fairly heavy and has resin on the inside, like a resistor maybe or regulator. The wires that crumbled come out of this black thing but are encased in the resin on the inside so I can't fix it, I need a new one. I don't want to buy a whold new alternator. Does anyone know what this part on the back of my aternator is called?

Thanks,

I need a larger monitor to view 2D floorplans. I am getting tired of zooming in on my 22" monitor. I can get a new 1080 60Hz LCD or Plasma for about $300 rather than paying $1000 or more for a 32" "monitor". I am not using it for gaming or movies, just for viewing documents. Will the 60Hz be OK or do I need 120 or 240?

Ok, this is an ANSWER to the above question to anyone who has already checked or changed their clock spring, fuses, relays, horns or cruise control module and still have no horn or cruise. I went through every forum and ever step, replacing over $100 worth of parts. You know what it was?? The fricken ground to my aftermarket Viper alarm was loose! I checked the factory grounds in the beginning so I had ruled them out. I was about to bypass my wiring harness and run a seperate ground through my horn switch directly to the relay but while I was under the dash I noticed the alarm wires running behind the drivers side kick-panel. I popped it off and found the ground wire which was just screwed through the side of car next to the main wiring harness. The damned thing was loose. I took out the screw and ran it back in next to the old hole to make a fresh contact. I reached up and hit the horn and what do you know, the damned thing worked! All that trouble for a stupid aftermarket ground wire. CHECK YOUR GROUNDS!!! If you are having door lock, light, horn or even CC issues it may very well just be a bad ground other than the factory grounds.

Hope this saves someone $$ and time.

Thanks,

I am changing the clock spring in my 97 Expedition because my horn and cruise don't work and my airbag light is on. I can't find a new one for a reasonable price so I am buying a used one. I know the new ones have a tab or pull on them that you release after it is installed to release the spring so on a used one, do you have to find dead center of the coil and hold it somehow as you assemble it?

I was just gong to stick something in the center of the used one and turn it gently side to side to see what I feel. If it is at one end, I will cound revolutions until it gets tight again, then back off half of those revolutions and try to keep it there somehow but this is all an educated guess based on the priciples of a clock spring. Any real info would be nice.

Thanks,