Adrian

Just got a non-working Sony PFM-50C1 from a friend. The power won't turn on at all. No lights, no crackles, no pops, no explosions. I have replaced a Y-board in another television before, but have never undertaken any crazy diagnostics. Just trying to get some insight before I crack it open. I'm an auto mechanic with experience fixing electronics and appliances, just not quite a veteran on the television front. Any realistic advice would be appreciated.

My girlfriend's brother took the car around the block and it wouldn't turn back on at the gas station. The key was stuck in the lock cylinder so I popped it out and replaced it, but the car is still doing the same thing. When the key is turned to the run position, the lights on the dash go out as if the starter would be drawing amperage, but nothing happens. No click, no crank, no anything. I was suspecting either the ignition switch or the starter solenoid, but intermittently there will be a chime under the passenger side dash, leading me to believe that the security system is at fault. Additionally, the lock cylinder in the door doesn't do anything; the key just turns back and forth with no resistance. I have tried unlocking the car with the FOB and with the keyless entry pad, but although I can hear the lock struggling to do something, the car will not start. The door lock has never functioned on the driver door as long as he's owned it.

I have to start off by saying that I'm an Army Reservist that's been deployed overseas and am currently drilling. I'm a very diligent and intelligent individual working at an auto parts store and I clearly know much more about auto repair than ALL of my coworkers. This is probably due to my experience as an Army mechanic and a civilian technician at Firestone and Sears compared to their limited experience in general retail. I'm also very good with customers and have been commended to and by the district manager. The other day my general manager mentioned that another store was hiring and I asked if they were hiring full-time or assistant managers. His response was that, quote, "They wouldn't hire you as an assistant manager, because they wouldn't know when you're getting deployed and all that stuff. I mean, I can work around it and all, but..." and he kind of cut himself off. I've worked here for over a year and love it, but despite being strung along for "full-time" or "parts pro" or "assistant manager" I've received little more than a pat on the back. No raise or anything and now I know why. Is this something that I could potentially pursue as discrimination under USERRA? Again, I am clearly good at my job and have been recognized by the district manager as well as regional staff, plus my Yahoo answers "best answer rate" is over 40% in issues regarding my job. I was thinking about e-mailing the district manager regarding the issue. Also note that I do have a witness to the manager saying the aforementioned quote.

I'm a Army Reserve (drilling) soldier and would like to go active duty. I've got a little over four years of time in service and nearly half of that has been on active duty via extended training and a mobilization. It's my understanding that the current situation is that the reserve component is stingily hanging onto soldiers. What are my odds of being released by the Army Reserve component to go Active Duty and how do I go about starting the process? My chain of command isn't much help. I'm a class III dental, but am able to pass my PT test and have a passing weapons qualification status. I am also a 63B and E-4. My unit has a slew of 63Bs and it's a route clearance company, so I imagine the MTOE doesn't have a current demand for my slot.

I've got a GXV140 that won't start. If I spray starting fluid into the carb it will fire up and then sputter out when the starting fluid is exhausted. I took the carb apart and the jet was clogged, so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but had the same symptoms. I took it off again and soaked the damn thing in carb cleaner for two days straight, reassembled everything, then checked it out and had the same symptoms. I cleaned off the spark plug and am sure the carburetor is clean (I can see right through the jet when I shine a flashlight into the carb). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Have a friend whose fuel tank is LOADED with water and won't run well. Anybody got a decent procedure on purging the tank? Will replace the fuel filter and for those with "guess-type" answer, please note that it's 1974, so it's carbureted. Thanks in advance!

My family and I just moved into our new rental a few months ago. Two months ago the water bill was outrageously high so we halved the sprinkler zones from 20 minutes to 10 minutes. I also replaced the fill valves and flappers in both toilets. Last month's bill just came and it's 47,000 gallons used! I've already turned off the water main and the dial stayed stationary for over an hour before I turned it back on. There's no standing water from a leak in the sprinkler system and as stated I've replaced any potential problems in the toilets. Anybody have any clue? And I'm obviously pretty handy and know a little bit about this stuff, so please only respond if you truly have a legitimately plausible answer. Thanks in advance!

I know that on a Honda/Acura you jump a wire between the two ports on a plug to get the engine light to flash your code. Is it the same for Toyotas? Where do I check the OBD-I at?