kash

Then it would be in their best interest to make people rich and keep them rich. What then does this say about democrats?

Basically it's the idea that even a minimum amount of racial stress is intolerable to white people, and they become defensive (or even confrontational) when faced with such stress.

I believe that this defensive/confrontational behavior is most often seen when white people use statistics and facts to argue their points on race. How is it that using statistics and facts to argue a point can be considered "fragile"? And regardless of the stats and facts that are or are not being used, if a non-white is troubled by someone simply opposing their view wouldn't that make them fragile?

I've read that Severum cichlids can reach a max size of 10 inches (24.4 cm). I've also read that a more realistic size to expect a severum to grow to is 7 - 8 inches (17.75 - 20.30 cm). I was just wondering, for those of you who own - or owned - severums, how big is your fish in adult size? How long have you owned it? And What size aquarium is it kept in?

Due to the last ice storm in GA. (USA), my power went out, which left my 65 gallon aquarium sitting with no filtration and heat for about 70 hours.

2 things that may not be important: **A) The community in the tank: 1 angelfish, 1 keyhole cichlid, 1 golden dwarf cichlid, 2 bolivian rams, 6 black phantom tetras and 6 silver hatchet fish. **B) Before the power came back on, the temp. dropped to about 63 degrees.

Along with the fish living through the long period of a drop in temp., I'm worried about the nitrogen cycle as to whether or not all the beneficial bacteria have died or will die.

Can anyone tell me what to expect? Perhaps give me a few tips? Thanks in advance.

Here's the situation: I have a 65 gallon tank (L=36", W=18", H=24") that I am currently using as a Dwarf Cichlid tank. Very little aggression and very little harrasment.

I once had a Kribensis in the tank, but it was too aggressive toward some of its tank mates, and I had to return it.

I replaced the Krib with a Keyhole, and everything is back to tranquility. The Keyhole is the "top dog", but it doesn't flex its muscles too often or too violently. Usually it's just a quick charge at a tankmate to scare it, which never results in a chase or contact.

I'm only saying all this about the temperament of the Keyhole, so that you can be well informed when answering my question

QUESTION: Considering that the Keyhole is a little more aggresive than its tankmates, and it will grow to the same length as a Krib, would a Krib and a Keyhole make good tankmates in the size aquarium that I have? Any personal knowledge you have about keeping these fish together would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

PS: I have no intention of buying a Krib again until all my other fish have died off, and due to the Keyhole's life expectancy, odds are it will be the "last man standing". When that happens, I'd like to start over with the Keyhole, and add fish that are compatible with it.

A) I have a 65 gallon tank (L=36", W=18", H=24") with an Aqua-Clear 70 filter, which filters *obviously* 70 gallons of water an hour.

B) I'm willing to do one partial water change a week (and no more than one); and I'm willing to clean the entire aquarium as needed. With my current community that's already in the 65 gallon tank, I normally clean it every 3-4 weeks.

I'm only stating how devoted to cleaning the tank I am so that I you can be well informed when answering my question. So please no answers like "You can have 25 angelfish if you do three 75% water changes every other day; and clean the the aquarium, decor, and filter every week".

C) I have no intention of adding any angelfish into my current 65 gallon community until they start dieing off. Eventually, I would like to have an angelfish only aquarium with a small school of 8-12 tetras (Rummy Nose or Serpae etc.)

QUESTION: With ABC in mind, how many angelfish would I be able to keep in a 65 gallon tank? Thanks in advance!

PS: If need be, I would be willing to buy a stronger filter. Perhaps up to the AquaClear 110.

I have no idea what button(s) I accidentally pushed, but when I try to get on the internet with Safari, the search engine automatically goes to Firefox Mozilla.

How do I stop this from happening. I "X" (red button) out of Firefox and I see Safari's window on the screen, but when I try the URL (to type in a web site) and press "enter", the screen switches right back to the Firefox search engine...

Help me to fix this problem. I just want to use Safari when I click on "Safari"!!!!

I have 100 rounds of Monarch .380 ACP (Steel Ammo.). I was planning on going to the range tomorrow and shoot some of the rounds off (at least a box: 50 rounds) through my Ruger LCP.

Question: Does anyone know if the steel casings damage up my weapon? Should I just "trash" the steel rounds and by a box of brass ones instead?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Bought a brand new Bushmaster M4A3, cleaned it (I thought well), took it to the range, shot approx. 20 rounds (in a 30 round magazine) through it, when I had a failure to fire... I mean a "devil" of a failure to fire.

I immediately performed "SPORTS", but only got to "P" when I found that the charging handle wouldn't budge at all. My bolt was stuck in the forward position with a round charged and there was nothing I could do at the time to get it out. I removed the magazine to see if that would improve anything, but it didn't. The charging handle still could not be pulled back.

I finally had to slam the butt of the weapon down on a table while - at the same time - pulling the charging handle back, and that worked. The charging handle budged loose and the round came out.

I inspected the round, but observed no problems with it. I put it back in the magazine and fired my weapon through the remaining rounds; plus another 10 rounds with no further problems.

Any idea(s) on what the problem could have been.

NOTE: I was firing 1 round per 2-3 seconds when the failure to fire occurred. I don't recall, but I believe that I was shooting Remmington .223 ammo at the time.

I had a 20 gallon aquarium, which was completely cycled, that had 2 Dwarf Flag Cichlids and 10 Serpea Tetras living in it. 3 days ago, I bought a new 65 gallon aquarium and put the fish into it.

To cause as little stress to the fish as possible and to help speed along the cycling process I did the following:

1) I transferred approx. 80% of the water from the old tank into the new one.

2) I transferred all of the gravel from the old tank into the new one.

3) I transferred all the decor from the old tank into the new one.

4) I transferred my two 20 gallon filters from my old tank to the new one. The filters are currently running next to the new 70 gallon filter that I eventually intend to solely use.

NOTE: To transfer as much beneficial bacteria as possible, the gravel, decor, and filters were not cleaned before I placed them into the new tank.

I've checked the water perameters on all 3 days and everything looks good.

1) Ammonia is at 00, with not even a hint of a rise.

2) Nitrites are at 00.

3) pH is balanced at 7.00

For the time being, I would like to put three more fish into my new aqaurium (one mid-size Kribensis and two juvie. Golden Dwarf Cichlids).

Question: With everything mentioned, does it sound safe to get the fish and put them in the tank, or should I wait a few more days?

Played golf today and at some point during the course I lost a spike from one of my golf shoes. Apparently it just came unscrewed.

Question(s): To replace it, are golf shoe-spikes "one size fits all"? Would the thread of the spike(s) differ from shoe company-to-shoe company and spike manufacturer-to-spike manufacturer? If the threads do differ, is there an easy way to know what spikes to purchase? Will I have to have to bring in a shoe-spike (or the whole shoe itself) to find a spike that will fit?

On older model four door Grand Marquis there is an exterior light that is located between the vehicle's front and rear doors. I need to know what the specific name of that light is. I've done everything I can think of to figure out what it's called, but to no avail. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The following link will take you to 5 pics older model Grand Marquis (scroll down to see them). Of the pics are 4 door models. For reference, you can see the light located between the windows of the front and rear doors.

http://www.smcars.net/forums/mercury/21813-mercury...

For a bit of news that would overshadow that stupid royal wedding... and this morning, I was answered in a huge way!

I have a 75 gallon (approx. 284 liter) aquarium. I've been doing some reading up on BAs, and... not too much help.

1) I've read that BAs will max size at 8 inches (approx. 20 cm). However,

2) they will rarely get over 6 inches (approx. 15 cm).

3) Heck, I've even read that, while in captivity, they will rarely get over 4 inches (approx. 10 cm).

Can any one with Blue Acara experience give a little input please as far as what size to expect from BAs in a 75 gal. (both male and female) please? Thanks in advance.

I have a 75 gallon tank that I'm planning on pulling out of retirement soon.

So far, I have 2 different stocking ideas that I'm interested in... and I like them equally.

Aquarium 1:

1 Blood Parrot Cichlid

2 Golden Gouramis

7 Boesemans Rainbowfish

Question for this tank: Aqadvisor.com says this community can work, but I've read both good and bad reviews about GGs (e.i. **they're territorial and aggressive, and **they're tranquil and good in a community). If anyone has any experience with GGs, can you give me some input so that I can make an enlightened decision as to whether or not I should keep GGs with BRs?

Aquarium 2:

1 Green Terror

2 Convict Cichlids

10 dither fish (possibly Tiger Barbs)

Question for this tank: Again, Aqadvisor.com says this community can work, but when breeding, CCs may become too aggressive for TB. First off, I know CC are p4p one of the (if not THE) most aggressive new world cichlid. If anyone has any experience with CCs and GTs, will a full grown 8" GT be able to hold its own against two 5"-6" CCs? Is there another fish of equal size that I can replace the CCs for? As well, if not TBs, can anyone recommend another type of fish to use as a dither fish?

I have a pair of DWFs (Male and Female... I'm 100% certain) in a 20 gallon long aquarium. They have a small shoal of 8 Serpae Tetras as tank mates.

I was under the impresion that DFC pair off fairly easily, but apparently mine have yet to do so.

It's not so much that i care that they breed, but I was hoping at the very least they would pair off. On one day - and one day only - I observed them doing their little mating ritual/dance... slowly swimming around each other in circles (kind of a "ying-yangish")... then nothing of it again.

I come home from work, turn on the light, and their chilling on opposite ends of the aquarium. When they do finally notice each other, it's the male that puts up a bit of a chase, and the female that constantly swims away from him.

So, what's the deal? Do I simply not have a compatible pair? Should I purchase another female and hope one of the two picks my male as a mate? Will the female I have eventually just become filled with eggs and have an overwhelming urge to breed?

I haven't been able to find too much detail(s) about the breeding habits of DFCs online... just creating the ideal decor and water perimeters. Anyone with some knowledge, some input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I have a 20 gallon long aquarium. It has been cycled, and I'm currently adding fish to it.

So far, I have 2 Dwarf Flag Cichlids, 2 Albino Corys (soon to get 2 more), and 6 Serpae Tetras.

I like how the ST's school together, and I know I want to add more for a larger school. As well, I was thinking of adding a Keyhole Cichlid to the aquarium.

I want to keep my tank a little understocked (around 90%) so the fish can have decent space and comfort, and according to aqadvisor.com:

2 DFC's + 4 AC's + 11 ST"s = 89% stocking level ... or

2 DFC's + 4 AC'c + 8 ST's + 1 KC = 90% stocking level

I have enough filtration for both ideas. And from what I've read, both communities should be compatible.

Question: Does anyone have any experience with these fish or my community idea(s) in general? Which community do you believe will work best? Thanks in advance.

I have a 20 gallon long aquarium, and I believe it's cycled...tomorrow's test results will let me know for sure.

I want 2 Dwarf Flag Cichlids (Curvicep Cichlids), one male and one female, to be a part of the community that I intend to have. The problem is that differentiating the sex of DFCs is difficult. There's subtle differences, but nothing clearly obvious.

I've read that a good way to ensure I have a compatible pair is to:

1) Buy a few and let them pair off themselves (from what I've read, DFCs usually do this easily),

2) Keep the two that I want, and

3) Return the others back to the LFS.

Here's the catch: I've read that you don't want to add too many fish in a newly cycled aquarium at one time because, due to the ammonia produce by the fish, this may being a new cycle all over again.

Question: What is the Max number of DFCs (the ones at the LFS are about 2 inches each) can I put in to my aquarium before I need to worry about accidentally triggering a new cycle? Help please.

I have a 20 gallon long aquarium, and I believe it's cycled...tomorrow's test results will let me know for sure.

I want 2 Dwarf Flag Cichlids (Curvicep Cichlids), one male and one female, to be a part of the community that I intend to have. The problem is that differentiating the sex of DFCs is difficult. There's subtle differences, but nothing clearly obvious.

I've read that a good way to ensure I have a compatible pair is to:

1) Buy a few and let them pair off themselves (from what I've read, DFCs usually do this easily),

2) Keep the two that I want, and

3) Return the others back to the LFS.

Here's the catch: I've read that you don't want to add too many fish in a newly cycled aquarium at one time because, due to the ammonia produce by the fish, this may being a new cycle all over again.

Question: What is the Max number of DFCs (the ones at the LFS are about 2 inches each) can I put in to my aquarium before I need to worry about accidentally triggering a new cycle? Help please.

I've been cycling my 20 gallon long aquarium (with fish) for the last 32 days.

On Day 11: I began doing daily 10% water changes... skip to days 25-30

From days 25-30: Most of my chemical readings were the same and at good levels. pH = 7.0, Alkalinity = 40, Hardness = 25, and Ammonia = 0

My only problem was with Nitrites = 5.0 (possibly higher off the color chart), and Nitrates = greater than 20 (Test kit not exact, but color chart is definitely > 20).

Day 30: I grew tired of the repetitive test results, (high Nitrite levels and no increase at all in Nitrate levels) As a result, I performed a 20% water change.

Day 31: Test results showed a dramatic fall in Nitrites...from > 5.0 to .50!!! All other test results, including Nitrates = > 20, are the same. After the test results, I once again a performed another 20% water change.

Day 32: Another dramatic fall in Nitrites... from .50 to 0.0 (no Nitrates at all)!!! As well unfortunately, I see a drop in Nitrates (Once again, the test kit not exact, but the Nitrates color chart is definitely not as strong as before).

Questions: Is cycling complete (Ammonia = 0, Nitrites = 0, and Nitrates = ...some)? I'd like to think it is, but my only hesitation is the ridiculously low level of Nitrates throughout the entire cycling process.

If there's no Ammonia, then I shouldn't have to worry about another Nitrite spike, right? However, I had no Ammonia to begin with and Nitrates remained high for 6 days. As well, Nitrates never raised over 20. So, It's obvious that it was only the 20% water changes that dropped the Nitrites, and nothing else about the Nitrogen cycle contributed to the drop.

What's next? Should I continue the water changes (how much and how often)? Help please!