Whiskey

I have a 2000 sportster 1200s that needs a rear wheel, I found a great deal on a rim that is the same size and uses the same axle, but it's from a 95 touring Harley. From the pics, the mounting for the belt pulley and brake disc appear to be identical. I don't want to buy it and find out there is some small detail that keeps it from fitting. Anybody know if this is a straight swap?

I am no mechanic and this is my first time trying this.I recently tore my engine down to the cylinders, then put everything back together except for the exhaust manifolds (waiting on headers), now it sounds like just the starter is spinning and it catches fire. I have tried starting it three times with the same result. I cant find any leaks, or bad wiring. I am at a loss.

1984 Chevy K20 with 5 yr old remaned 350, carbureted.

2006 fxstbi. My starter or something is grinding the hell out of the starter jackshaft gear. it's a stock starter motor, with a BDL 3 inch open belt drive. This year, a new clutch pack was put in by a Harley shop, but otherwise nothing different than usual. One day last month, the starter would engage but with an odd sound and no turning of the primary.

so I pulled the cover off and found the jack shaft teeth ground down real bad. Scored a deal on a new one and installed it myself. I was able to do it by just swapping jackshafts, so no other bolts were touched or parts removed. I took the bike out today and the same sound and all started again, got it going and brought it home, and the new jackshaft is showing signs of being ground again.

What is causing this and how can I stop it? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

I have an 84 Chevy k20. At the beginning of the week it started making a ticking noise like I had a loose lifter, ticking was consistent with the rpms. So I checked the oil and it read that it needed some, and I put some in. Hadn't stopped ticking by the end of the day, I checked oil again and it now read that it had to much. The next day it kept up the ticking, and also started a random loud knock that only comes with high rpms. The engine in it is a rebuilt 350 from Jasper and was put in summer of 2009, I'm guessing about 50,000 miles on it.

My transmission has been out of whack for about three years now and I've been waiting for it to give out but it won't and that's why I'm wondering if maybe I am confusing the engine noise with the tranny finally going. It's a stock 4 speed manual.

I was hoping to get some help on here to get a better idea before I go spending money on it. It's my only truck to get to work. I don't want to spend money on parts I don't need, and I don't want to pay the labor charges if it's something I can do myself. Any help would be much appreciated,

I've got a 2006 FXSTBI, as of now it has some Vance & Hines pipes, a Kuryakin hypercharger, and a Screamin' Eagle fuel pack. It has a stock 88b in it and I'm thinking it might be time to give it some more balls. I've looked around at some engine kits and don't know which way to go. I want to get the best raise in torque and hp without spending too much to get there. Any suggestions on this subject are welcome, even nine bad things' criticism.

I have a 2006 FXSTBI. Recently my horn has become muted, it still honks, but it's barely audible. I have checked all the wiring up to the bars, but they are all intact to that point.

I did ride in a big rain a week or so ago, and went through a few flooded spots on streets which sent water pretty high. It was a few days after that ride that I noticed the issue. Is my horn damaged from water possibly? It's had plenty of time since then to dry out so just being wet is not an issue.

The only other things I can think of that may have affected the sound of the horn are recent lighting work. I installed a different taillight, but that was just cut and splice work on the stock wiring for the taillight only. I also installed rear turn signals which was simply connecting wires to the harness. And I did have to switch out the battery with my spare. Those all happened before the problem and the rain ride.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

84 K20 4x4 4 speed manual. So, originally after an accident my transmission was a little weird such as being a little difficult to shift down into second. No grinding or anything just had to force it. Recently I swapped the rear axle for a different one, and before I redid the brakes I drove it around a few blocks and it still shifted the same.

But now, after the brakes, the transmission will grind shifting up to second and really grinds when shifting down as well as still having to force it. When swapping out the axle all work was done on the rear axle and rear driveshaft, nothing else was touched. What happened? And how do I fix this?

I have an 84 Chevy K20 4x4, and the rear axle ground itself up. I have pulled the truck into a spot in my yard using the front axle, and a couple of years ago when I was working on the rear driveshaft I had to drive it a few blocks and back to a shop to get things figured out. So what I'm wondering is, would I destroy the truck any further if I just plugged the hole on the transfer case where the rear driveshaft goes and used it to drive to work and back at low speeds for a prolonged period of time?

I am having a hard time coming across a rear axle since my truck was all I had to haul things and no one that has one near were I live is willing to deliver. I'm in a small town so there is no u-pull-it place and well, I'm just stuck in a situation where the persons car we were lent is becoming a burden.

84 k20 4x4 4 speed manual. Since I bought it, the emergency brake has never worked, I've just engadged it in second gear to park it. Is this ruining my transmission or clutch?

So my exhaust broke apart a while back from too sharp a turn and I welded it back on, then turned too sharp again a month late rand it's cracked again but I have the pipe wrap on it good enough that it's not moving around to much and the exhaust still goes all the way through. What i'm wondering, is riding with the exhaust cracked like this ruining my engine slowly or is it not too much of a problem?

Since the second crack I have not taken it out on long trips, nothing more than 20 minutes at highway speed, and just rode it around town. I am getting new pipes that don't hang so low but I'm waiting on tax time.

Is this a bigger problem than I think or am I able to take it an hour down the highway still? Thanks for any input.

2000 HD Sporty 1200s. Recently my taillight and brake light will not come on at all. I have checked the bulbs and they are fine, I have checked the wires up to the cluster and they are fine, I have checked the fuses and they are fine, I pulled the tank off and checked for any spots in the wire casing wrap stuff and saw no holes or tears. And I hate wiring so I did not cut that off and check the wires individually. I have also pulled the taillight off of my girlfriends bike and hooked it up in case it was my tailight itself, and got no lights. The only thing I can think of that may have been a lead up to this problem was the brake light not coming on when I used the front brake, but working with the rear, and the running light worked properly too. So if anyone could help me solve this without having to go to the dealer I would appreciate it.

I need some help with diagnosing the problem in my truck, obviously. My truck does alright around town but when I put it in fourth gear, either after a while or right away, it starts jerking like maybe it's not getting enough gas or the clutch is slipping. My first thought was that it was the tranny finally going out from an accident a couple of years ago, because when I fixed it up the trans was acting different. But, when it does the jerking thing, I don't hear any grinding from the clutch or gears.

So, is this the tranny? A fuel pump issue? Fuel filter? The only other thing I thought of was possibly the carb because I was supposed to get that tuned a while ago but didn't because of the wreck.

Any help on narrowing this issue down is great, I just don't want to spend money on an un-needed part. And I am planning on doing this myself. Thanks in advance.

Alright, I understand this could possibly be a number of things. What I have done so far is replace the battery and alternator in the car and it starts and runs good, but then it will sit overnight and the next morning it will not start. The starter is fine, when I try to start it, it turns over but will not run. I was going to change the spark plugs when this first happened, but it decided to start and run all day just fine. Now it wont start this morning, it only got to 54 degrees last night so I have ruled out cold weather. It's our seventeen year old's car and we need it running, but without alot of expense.

So I bought some new grips for my bike. The grips currently on the bike were customs too, and whoever put them on glued the clutch side on. There is no end cap, there is a spot for set screws, but the screws are not there. All I can think of is rigging something on the grip and using a rubber mallet to pound away and hope something happens. Any advice would be appreciated.

So, I was going too fast to start with, then hit the brakes too hard going down my gravel driveway, and it dropped. My throttle is a little stiff now, can it be fixed or am I better off replacing the assembly?

I have a 2000 XLH 1200s which makes a knocking sound. It's not too loud and seems to be coming from the right side near the front. I'm wondering if it has to do with the tappets or a piston. I just don't want to take the whole thing apart and realize it was something simpler. Also, it makes a sound like there is sand in there or something.

On my way back from out of town yesterday, I happened to stop along the highway and noticed my exhaust wraps were smoking like crazy in a couple of spots. The wraps are not new. And the temperature gauge on my oil was higher than normal. when i checked my oil there were air bubbles in it, but otherwise seemed fine. So,after sitting for 30 minutes, I drove it back home at around 55 mph stopping every 10 minutes to let it rest for about ten to fifteen minutes until i got home. Then when I started it up this morning, it idled for maybe 3 seconds then shut off and a big puff of smoke came from the carb through the air breather. I started it up again and it ran fine for the next minute ir so while I moved it into the garage. Is there anything I can do without having to take it to my H-D shop? It's a 2000 sporty 1200s.

I have apes on my bike, and I've tightened them as tight as they will go, even breaking a couple of allens on it. But as I'm going down the highway, if I hit a good bump, they will inch down a bit. It sorta freaks me out because I know it's stripping them and eventually they could just loosen too much and put me and my bike in a wreck. What can I do to keep them where I put them?

My girlfriends bike had a little trouble starting, and once started, it sputtered a bit. I figured it was an easy fix so I put new plugs in and set the idle higher and it starts up like it should now. Since my bike is currently in the shop, I have been riding hers. Every now and then it sputters a bit still, and earlier today it backfired when I started it up after running errands in town for a while. I'm a novice at this stuff, so is there something I'm missing that's an easy fix or am I gonna have to take hers to the shop when mine comes back this week?

It is a 2000 XLH 883.

I'm tight on spending money, but I know things happen on the road. What are some must have tools that I can grab from my garage to take with me that will get the job done.