ahanix1989

I've got a 17 year old cat who has developed mammary cancer on the 9th gland. For a year and a half she had small lumps under her skin (felt like fatty deposits). Recently they began growing, While she seems to be perfectly fine (eats, drinks, runs, grooms, plays with lasers intended for the other cats, no shortness of breath, etc) one spot looks like it's about ready to burst through the skin.

While I have not directly pressed on this spot because I'd imagine it's tender, it should be smooth and soft like the rest of her growths. I can't take her in for surgery for several reasons, including budget (I need my own dental work done this week which will exceed my maximum insurance coverage), prognosis (it's way beyond 3cm, and considering she's never weighed over 6 pounds except when pregnant, I doubt she'd even survive the surgery), and overall my feelings towards the surgery (She's not in pain now, the surgery will definitely put her in pain, and the vet has agreed that by all accounts she should've been gone years ago).

Which is why, to help prevent some pain of having that one spot burst through skin, I'm wondering of the possibility of using a sterilized needle and attempting to drain some fluid out of it. What should I know before I attempt this?

I'm having difficulty getting the timing set on this 1994 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.3 SOHC.

I get the crank and cam at TDC, put the chain on, put the tensioner in, put the guides in.... but when I spin it by hand the timing chain keeps jumping and messing up the timing.

Any advice? Tensioner is in working condition

Looking for some summer tires to grind away to preserve my expensive snow tires, I came across an ad on Craigslist for a set of tires in my size, "65% tread". I go to pick them up, they're pretty muddy but I figure they'll clean right up.

Once I get the tires cleaned off I learn the sidewall tread is a tall stylistic design and the actual "tread" is almost gone. Now I need to try to get my money back. I know I should have inspected them further, but the past is what it is.

My question is, since the tires are below the legal minimum of 2/32", could he legally sell them as auto tires? Isn't there some safety law that says tires without sufficient tread can only be sold as scrap / tire swings / etc?

I've already got enough of a case in that he claimed 65% treadlife when, as measured, the BEST of the four was 4/32" (30% treadlife) and one of them is a meager 1/32" (8% treadlife). I mean one of the tires is so low I used a penny and you can still read the words "IN GOD WE TRUST" above Lincoln's head, and since I paid over $100 I can technically take him to small claims for fraud if he refuses to pay me back.

Had a bit of a leak at the dipstick tube, so I bought a little more transmission fluid for my Dodge.

I poured in half a quart before I noticed it was Dexron III, not ATF+4.

It's not like my entire transmission is full of Dexron III, it's just half a quart in. Will this cause any severe problems if I drive it for a week until I get a paycheck and can afford to have it flushed?

Trying to find a replacement hood for a friend who hit a deer...

She has a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier sedan... I'm seeing a hood nearby off a 1995... but I know there was a facelift around 2000 -- were the hoods changed during the facelift?

Traded an engine on craigslist for a welder... it's some cheap Chinese knockoff welder called Speedway. I cannot find a replacement contact tip for it. It's smaller than Tweco-style.

The welder looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JUJJKI?ie=UTF...

Ok, I've been trying to diagnose network problems here.

I have Charter internet and a Linksys BEFSR41 v2 router. I eventually got the router to see the connection again, but speed is still a problem.

If I connect the modem directly to my PC, I have a latency of 32ms, 14Mbit downstream, 1Mbit upstream.

If I connect the router, my latency is 45ms, 5Mbit downstream, 0.8Mbit upstream. I have tried a number of different cables.

What is going on?

Isn't that kinda... backwards?

I didn't need to sign in to do this. I didn't need to sign in to toll the Religion & Spirituality section. But if I click a little thumbsup, JESUS CHRIST SOMEBODY GET HIS PASSWORD MAKE SURE IT'S AUTHENTIC

Also, why is it just entering '...' will trigger the "TOO MUCH PUNCTUATION" alert

Ok, with a full charge it starts beautifully.

If I leave the headlights on for five minutes, or my doors open for twenty, it won't start. Acts like the battery is completely drained (which reads 11.5v)

The battery is less than two years old, and tested at 1059 cranking amps earlier today.

When cranking, the voltage drops from 11.5 down to 3-4. Ditto if I grab a different battery.

If I jumpstart it from a car or use a battery charger, it's fine.

Is this an indication of a failing starter drawing wayy too much power?

Working on a 2002 GMC Savana with 5.7L Vortec engine.

Fuel pump failed on it, so we dropped the tank and put a new pump in, doing the whole "wiring conversion" deal.

Get the tank back up and it pumps fuel, but the gas needle will "vibrate" in place, occasionally drop to E, and the Check Engine light is on with P0452 stored.

Is this a sign of a defective fuel pump, or did I not connect something properly?

Does anybody know, typically, how long it'll take for me to get my vanity plates? Driving a full size van, decided "I EAT GAS" would be a decent plate...

Just curious how long it takes.

Okay, I've got a 1996 Dodge Ram B5200 van, 5.2L V8. I pulled the Y-pipe off a 1994, and put it on my van.

It was a snug fit, but air is leaking where the y-pipe bolts to the manifolds. Quite a bit, too. What are my options? I don't believe there is a donut gasket available for these.

Trying to find that other classified site similar to Craigslist that has a ton of I's and J's in the name...

Unfortunantly, google searches aren't working.

I've got two SVC MTX Thunder 5500 12" subs... blew out my old amp so I'm looking for a monoblock amp to replace it.

Based on my budget, I've narrowed it down to either the Kenwood KAC-9104D or an Audiopipe 1500w amp (It doesn't list the model, I'm assuming it's the AP15001D)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item...

Which one would be better? I plan on running it at about 2/3 gain (right around RMS rating of the subs, without pushing the amp too hard)

God, I've been doing so much math lately...

I've got two MTX Thunder 5500's. Rated at 300w RMS each.

I'm getting an amplifier that tested out at 644w RMS at 2-ohm.

So when I connect these two 4ohm subs in parallel, it'll essentially be 322w per sub, well within safe limits, right?

Someone backed into my sister's '98 Neon and totalled the door...

I've got a guy in town who will sell me replacement doors, but I need to know how difficult it is to remove the door. It'll open, and the only wires are for the speakers (manual locks and windows)

I'm looking at buying a van that has a clean title in Illinois, and I live in Wisconsin. However, the van's steering rusted out and is undriveable. My intention is to tow it home, strip out its parts, and take it to the junkyard.

What is the best way to go from "Illinois Clean Title" to " Wisconsin Salvage"? Should I have the current owner retitle it to salvage, or does he have to title it to "Wisconsin Clean" and then I have to salvage-title it?

Okay, let's see. It's a Dodge fullsize cargo van.

JVC 6x9's in the rear tied in parallel to

Eclipse Point Source 4" speakers in the middle

All connected as channels 1/2 on 4-channel amp

Two MTX Thunder 4500 12" subs on their own amplifier

Front speakers are on 3/4 for the aforementioned 4-channel amp. They were some crappy $50 wal-mart 6x9's, but the tweeter and midrange on the drivers side failed, so I bought a nice set of Pioneer 6x9's... but for some reason these sound... flatter. Is it just not tuned right, or are the cheap wal-mart speakers just going to play higher pitches better?

Friend just called me, she recently got a Ford Focus, not sure what year, but she said her rear windshield wiper won't stop running and she doesn't know where the switch for it is.

Any advice?

Trying to get the van up and running again, when I try to start it, one of a couple things will happen:

a) "Click". Sounds like the solenoid kicking in, but the starter itself won't spin.

b) "Clickickickickickick" plus a spark from a random spot on the engine, usually towards the front of the intake manifold

If I remove the starter, it spins perfectly when I try cranking. Once I install it back on the engine it doesn't work properly.

Engine's not seized, motor's working. Just can't get it to crank and that random spark worries me.