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Jon W
Lv 5
Jon W asked in SportsOutdoor RecreationHunting · 1 decade ago

Mauser CZ.24 will not strike primer on "FIRE" or go to "SAFETY" with Buehler 770 safety.?

This is a safety that works "backwards" from the factory Mauser safety.

See my previous question:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AnKAt...

for more details.

MIDWESTUSA sells a similar safety if you want to see what it looks like here: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showprod...

I cannot perform step 3 of the recommended fix procedure. I'll add that as additional details next.

Update:

If this did not work (it didn't), you need the dirtier, more difficult fix:

First, grasp the bolt body in your left hand, with the bolt facing away from you.

Second, place your right hand on the rear of the bolt with the bolt handle resting in the web of your right hand between your thumb and index finger.

Third, while gripping both parts of the bolt, twist both hands together while pulling them apart (kinda stretching the bolt).

Fourth, as the bolt twists and the bolt handle moves toward your body, flip the safety lever with your right thumb so it is "straight-up", locking the firing pin.

Once you complete these four steps, you should be able to slide the bolt into the receiver (on the rails) properly as you "pull-out" the bolt "lever" on the left side of the receiver. The bolt "lever" also serves, when closed, as your cartridge ejector.

Update 2:

I don't feel that it is unsafe. If I did, I'd load a cartridge deep-seated with just a primer, and then I'd have to dislodge a squib at the worst.

Luckily, where I live, the shooting range is a foot outside my front door.

I have until next deer season to get it fixed. I have a lot of time to work on it before turning it over to a gunsmith.

I don't think it'll could cost more than I paid.

However, I did only pay $150 for this sporterized cz24 with a a bright barrel interior, Monte-Carlo stock, recoil pad, Leopold quick-release mounts, 3x Weaver scope, low-profile Buehler safety, and tooled & padded leather sling.

A factory new bolt's $25, and sear's about $5.

If I added a new Beuhler-style safety for $25 and a peep sight andwhile I was at it - it probably would cost more.

I'd lost a screw from my 12-gauge Savage 30D shotgun and he charged me $30 for the $8 screw he ordered & did a receiver CLA (cleaning, lubrication, & adjustment) & tested it.

I'd paid $120 for that gun 4 years ago.

Update 3:

OK.

I was being a bit sarcastic towards the latter two replies of my 2nd post...

I've handled firearms for - oh - 35 years or so.

I've owned the rifle about 2.5 years & it's worked fine. I bought it from a friend of mine who was a pipe-line worker in Alaska. He bought it 25-30years ago & had basically never used it.

He knew I was in desperate need of a deer rifle & cut me a great deal.

I was sighting in hand-loads and I chambered and "fired" a cartridge w/o a primer (oops!).

I "extracted" the cartridge, but the bullet had engaged the lands and pulled out of the cartridge. I removed the bolt and did "something" different this time and couldn't get it back in and working. So, I let it sit until I had time.

We're a bit rural here, and the Smith had to go no further than his back-yard to test fire it. I agree it was a fair price. The screw had spontaneously fallen out - loosening 1 extractor side and jammed the works in the process.

I didn't attempt to mess with it, realizing my limits

3 Answers

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  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Bound's hubby here:

    I try to give accurate advice, there are too many people out here that get their kick's from misleading people as an "authority". I also try to not be mean or condescending, so if it appears that way, my apologies in advance.

    I presumed that you had this rifle for a while and that you had fired it before. However, some of your additional details on the original question I answered, then this one, do disturb me.

    First, on the original question's "additional details", you mentioned after you got the bolt back in the rifle, you removed a bullet that was in the barrel. In this question, you mentioned intentionally using squib loads ... these are loads that are dangerous and damaging ... you want to avoid these like the plague! When a bullet gets stuck in the barrel, you risk the barrel getting ringed or "bulged", both of which are potentially dangerous conditions and damaging to a rifle's accuracy.

    Second, you described your rifle package's purchase price ... not being critical, but lets look at the true cost of the rifle you bought for $150.

    A CZ-24 rifle, as military surplus ... maybe $300?

    A Leupold Quick release scope mount ... $60 uninstalled

    Beuhler safety ...lets say $35

    Weaver 3x scope ... maybe $150 (ref: http://www.wimers.net/access.php)

    Sling ... say $30

    Boyd stock, monte carlo ... $80

    You got a rifle conservatively worth $600 for $150 ... did any warning flags go up?

    Have you actually fired this rifle before? Did the custom safety work properly when you bought the rifle?

    I am honestly afraid that someone saw you coming, and sold you a white elephant!

    I would strongly suggest that if you want to delay getting this rifle to a gunsmith, you need to get Jerry Kuhnhausen's "How to" guide for the Mauser Rifle and learn how your rifle functions and is put together! Whether you take your rifle to a 'smith now or in 6 months, you need to get this book and read up on your rifle!

    Now, gunsmith fees? Yes, they are high ... for a reason! In many respects, they fix what we screw up! If you think $30 for an $8 screw, cleaning the receiver, and test firing your shotgun is high, think again.

    Had you known where to go, you could probably have gotten that screw from Numerich Arms for about $5, but you didn't.

    You could have taken about a half hour and cleaned and lubed your shotgun, but he did.

    Chances are good your 'smith had to pack up your shotgun and go to a range where he belongs to test your shotgun ... takes time, gas, and ammo.

    I think you got a real bargain for $30!

    See the link below for a table of gunsmithing fees, less the parts ... you may change your mind about the fees.

    My long time 'smith recently died ... he was weened on the '03 Springfield ... he was the only man I trusted to work on my rifles and pistols. Now, for jobs beyond my ability (fortunately, that is now limited to just cutting/machining and indexing barrels and custom fabrications) I must find a 'smith I trust, not an easy task!

    Each time you face taking a gun to your 'smith, think thru what you could have done to make that trip unnecessary. Chances are, your visit is the result of your mistake!

    A strong tip ... never buy a used, "custom" rifle ... and ask yourself this question ... "why, after spending God knows how much money, would the original owner now sell his pet project?"

    Good luck!

    Source(s): http://www.jrsgunsmithing.com/SERVICES.html Master Class competitive rifleman Expert Class competitive pistol shot Reloader of over 124,000 rounds Over 30 years of firearms and reloading experience.
  • 1 decade ago

    the Mauser in a simple rifle, even the CZ, it sounds like you fallowed some bad advice, you need a gun smith to fix it, but it will probably cost as much as your rirle to fix it.

    you night try http://www.jouster.com/cgi-bin/mauser/index.pl?nof...

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Now it is time to take it to a gunsmith.

    For your safety and others.

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