Caulking between tub and tile?

Why do answers have to be rude? Here is someone who has a good relationship with her landlord and is putting thought into maintaining that good relationship by not being confrontational or stepping on sensitive feelings. That is to be commended, not given useless replies like, "It's his tub, he can do whatever he wants." No, he has to provide proper maintenance on the property per the lease agreement. Speaking as someone who had an apartment fire because a poorly caulked tub fixture allowed water to leak into the wall and cause an electrical short in the wiring below, you better BELIEVE I would speak up if I saw someone doing an improper repair!

I THINK the following are all true. But just casually ask him if they are--put the thought in his head and he'll wind up thinking that it was his idea that these things could be problems and it would be better to caulk it. That's usually the best way to handle the male ego.

1. The wallboard is on top of the flange, so it will get wet and rot or mildew from any water that seeps in the uncaulked seam.

2. Water that gets behind the tile will be wicked upwards, damaging the mortar, wallboard, etc.

3. Water that gets behind the tile can still seep in the screw holes in the flange, where it will wet the wood--which tends to stay wet, with all the resultant problems

He is partially correct. There is a flange around the tub to prevent water overflowing the back side. However, water will run under the tiles at the joint with the tub and onto the floor

and the ends of the tub even with a good tub/shower door.

The grout between the tile is porous which allows moisture to leach behind the caulking at the tub.

Two things need to be done. First the grout between the tiles should be sealed. This is a clear liquid available at most home improvement centers. Each joint between the tiles should be painted with this liquid. This prevents water from encroaching into the grout and leaching down the wall behind the caulking at the tub. I suggest removing the existing caulking , cleaning the joint, then after completely dry, reseal the joint with Poly Seam Seal. This caulking will not mildew and is easily installed.

An old pro.

Hisemiester

I think most everyone is hitting this square on, The inch or so that a tub seal rises is just part of the system. I would highly doubt any tub manufacturer fails to mention caulking the tub seam. Water wicks upwards, evaporates upwards. It is his call unless you have perhaps an allergy to black mold, mildew, other such, in which case you will suffer, and may have cause to legal recourse, as such critters will grow right up under there where you can't clean. Other wise, the landlord just has to look forward to rotting his walls and floors, and eventually replacing the tile , green-board, adjacent floor tile, and sub flooring, in as little as a year in some cases, depending on how much water gets up there. On the practical side, the guy probably would let you caulk it, or do it if you bought the caulk. If not, well hey splash it up, its his property.

The caulk is put there for a reason. To keep water from getting behind the tub. You are right in thinking so, but it is his tub so do it his way unless you are willing to pay for the caulk yourself. The flange would keep water from getting behind the tub if you only use the shower and you didn't splash any water on the board around the tub or you didn't use the tub and didn't splash water up on the board around the tub either. There would be no problem. Mildew can be a health problem also. Tell him this and see what he tell you.

You NEED the caulking to prevent moisture from getting in behind the tub and the tile. But from the sounds of it there may already be a problem with moisture having gotten in there. Best thing to do is strip off as much of the old caulking as possible. Wipe the whole area down with a bleach solution and make sure everything is REALLY dry before applying new caulking. Talk to the people at your local hardware store. They can help you with suggestions.

while he is correct to a point on the flange around the tub, he is overlooking the problem of steam, and standing water. if the water stays on the edge of the tub for any length of time, it will cause the wall to start rotting away. and the flange to rust out. that is why they use caulking in the first place. however, if it is molding now, wash it off thoroughly with cider vinegar and let it dry before re caulking it.

Agree with him, its his tub but before he comes over to remove the old caulking, stop at a hardware store and purchase somethink you'd like placed over the corner so it looks nice. If you buy it, he ought to be willing to install it. Ask at the hardware store or look in the aisle where they sell caulk or bathroom supplies, they sell a very nice white plastic thing that folds into a right angle, you clean the area very well first and then it installs with either a peel off tape or silicone that makes the tub look neat and clean. You may need to replace it if it looks like its getting mildew, but its better than whatever is under your existing caulk. I'm sure it costs less than ten bucks for enough to do your tub.

first of all that Magic bathing room Sealer Trim Is rubbish. i attempted it as quickly as on my bath. I observed the training to the letter & interior of a month it peeled off leaving the messy adhesive backing at the back of. Secondly, if the hollow between the bathtub & tile is a nil.5 inch or extra i might definately grout it. Caulk will artwork, yet grout is plenty extra everlasting fairly in a niche that widespread. Caulk will crack & ruin down in a void that widespread fairly in an area like a shower/bathe. wish this grew to become into useful, good success!!

scrape and dig old grout from between tiles and tub with a small paint scraper,and re-grout it.

It's his tub to do with as he pleases. As long as it still has running water, you can't really complain.