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Shed Floor and Plywood Thickness?

I know 3/4 inch treated plywood is the norm for the floor of a shed.

If I have access to 1/2 inch treated plywood, what are the pros and cons of doubling up on the 1/2 inch plywood to go for a thickness of 1 inch?

Update:

Are two 1/2 inch layers not as strong as a single 3/4 inch sheet?

Update 2:

bitt,

If applying liquid nails in a grid, how far apart should the lines be?

What are ringshank nails?

dr dirt,

thanks for the additional info

ge524,

I would think if it were unheated, it would experience much more temperature fluctuation (below freezing and above 100 in this area each the year) so wouldn't it be better to glue?

Update 3:

bitt,

If applying liquid nails in a grid, how far apart should the lines be?

What are ringshank nails?

dr dirt,

thanks for the additional info

ge524,

I would think if it were unheated, it would experience much more temperature fluctuation (below freezing and above 100 in this area each the year) so wouldn't it be better to glue?

Update 4:

dan y,

Thanks!

20 Answers

Relevance
  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    If the 1/2 inch plywood is free, then by all means go ahead and use it, and double it. If you are paying full retail for the 1/2 inch ply, then you could actually end up spending more for it than the standard 3/4inch plywood.

    If you go with 2 layers of the 1/2 inch (and I would expect the floor joists to be spaced far enough apart you would need to use 2 layers), youve got 2 choices in how to apply that second layer. You could offset the seams by 1/2 sheet, or you can turn the top layer 90 degrees to the bottom layer....literally, lay the first layer of ply in one direction, and lay the second layer sideways to the first layer. This would result in a much stronger floor, than simply laying one sheet directly over another.... and it would also help with fastener placement, hehehehe. I would advise that you use screws, not nails, to prevent back-out. For a 1/2 inch ply, I would use about a 1-1/4inch screw on the first layer...and if you want the screws thru the top layer to get a good bite in the floor joists, then for that layer, I would use about a 2 inch screw. Square drive screws will not strip out as easily as phillips head screws, and get actual wood screws (or 'deck' screws), not 'sheetrock' screws, as they have a tendency to snap under strain.

    If this shed is a 'permanent' fixture, then you might even consider using some glue - between the first layer and the floor joists (construction adhesive), and between the layers of plywood... a construction adhesive, or Titebond 2 ( a very good wood glue, widely used in the woodworking industry), or Titebond 3 (same company, but this glue is water resistant after it cures, making it great for outdoor products). If the shed is to remain 'portable', or knockdown ready, then I would NOT bother to glue the 2 layers of plywood together.

    I would mark the wall with a pencil, or masking tape, where the floor joists are located, before starting, this will make it easier to spot where you need to run the screws.

    As to the 'cons' - I would have to say possibly, the weight... but if this is a portable shed, extra weight in the floor could actually be a good thing.... and of course the extra labor, screws, and glue (if used) would be the only drawbacks as added time and expense.

    'Pro's' would be a stronger floor, and, if handling full sheets of 3/4 inch plywood is too heavy for you, then the 1/2 inch plwyood will be much easier to handle, and move around.

    Have Fun

  • 5 years ago

    1

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  • berson
    Lv 4
    4 years ago

    Plywood Flooring

  • Anonymous
    4 years ago

    2

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  • 1 decade ago

    being it is a shed and unheated forget the glue just run the plywood at 90 degrees to the first layer put down and use galvanized twist or ring shank nails

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