Would it be possible to make a new tabletop out of MDF? How?

I would recommend staying away from MDF unless you are going to laminate it. It would look very plain and cheap. As for rounding the corners with a router forget it, MDF has layers to it and when you round the corners you expose the various layers and it will be very "flaky". Another point to be made is that MDF is very heavy being made of mostly glue it will want bend without skirting or cross support of somekind. most likely your table has some support but probably not enough to support a 8 or 12 foot section. Depending on your skill level, available tools and budget there are various materials better suited for this task. An easy addition is pine glue-up boards available at most big box stores. they come in all sorts of sizes and are relatively cheap. Not the most elegant looking material (because most pieces are full of knot holes) but way better than MDF. Another option is to go with Hardwood ply. These are also available at most big box stores and come in 4 x 8 sheets. Much more sturdy than MDF and come in woods such as cherry, maple and birch. Just grab some trim to put around the edges and you got yourself a solid tabletop. All of these are best when put on top of a some kind of support structure. Hope this helps a bit.

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RE:

Would it be possible to make a new tabletop out of MDF? How?

Our current table is 29" by 47" and I'd like to make it bigger until we have the money to replace it. I was thinking that I could cut a sheet of MDF to size, probably extending the current table by about 8" to 12" on each side. I would use a router on the edges and then I thought I would stain...

Mdf Table Top

Possible, yes. Thing is, MDF is a bit brittle, so it would require bracing underneath to hold the weight of someone leaning on the table edge with their elbows.

If you use slats (like the pic shows your table-pieces of wood joined side-by-side) you'd have to support the ends where the slats are 'free-floating' (not supported by the existing table-top), still requiring support underneath.

I assume there is a rectangle-shaped structure under the existing tabletop supporting it. Is there room between the edge of the top and that structure allowing for the addition of such support for the free-floating 'ends'?

If so, perhaps this would work:

-attach such support to the bottom of the exiting top reaching back to the support structure - if substantial thickness is cumbersome, go with moderate thickness and substantial width on the 'joining' piece between the underside of the existing tabletop and the support - consider 4+ woodscrews ('he-man' type) and epoxy-glue to permanently attach to the exiting top

-make the new support as wide as the additional space - 1" to account for the lack of strength in 3/4" MDF (recommended). [if you want to add 10" width and length to the table, make the new structure 9" on all sides]

-cut your 3/4" MDF to match the new width and length, rout the sides,

stain and seal (like crazy - MDF is water resistant, not water-proof)

-attach from the bottom to maintain a nice, consistent surface.

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MDF looks fine but is not very structurally sound. Most DIY table tops are solid lumber glue-up panels, also you need a skirt close to the edge so it doesn't bend.

Shop around at garage sales, craigslist and freecycle, for a larger table rather than turn your small table into a mess.

I changed my glass table top to mdf thanks to my husband whos a carpenter - he whipped up a mdf table with routed edges. It was quick and easy.

You know what, your table looks about the same as what the mdf looks.

It has already been mentioned, the grainy rough layer look (although it's not rough to touch) around the edges looks kind of dirty now- it's only a year old and I do clean it daily.

If you do go with mdf, go for the darkest stain possible.

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Sure... you can paint over them! Here are the steps you'll need to take to make sure the paint sticks well: 1. Wash the units with liquid TSP to remove all grease and grime that will keep the paint from sticking properly. You can find liquid TSP at any good home hardware store. Use the liquid instead of the powder, as the powder is toxic, it's harder to mix and you have to rinse it after. Let it dry and then lightly (no need to get sore arms, I promise!) sand with a fine grain sandpaper just to make all smooth. Wipe off the dust with a soft, damp cloth. Let dry. 2. Use an oil-based primer to prime the units. I suggest either Bull's Eye 1-2-3 or Kilz or any other good quality oil primer. It's important not to use a latex (water based) primer on the units since you don't know what kind of paint is on them right now. If it's oil or emulsion and you use latex, the paint will easily peel, scratch and chip off. Allow the oil primer to completely dry according to the directions on the can. 3. Paint your units the color of your choice. You can paint over oil-based primer with latex, no problem. Keep in mind that since it is a kitchen, you'll need to be able to wash the units so use a paint that can be washed. Matte finish paint cannot be washed. I highly suggest you use kitchen and bathroom paint. It is made especially to be able to wash it and to avoid getting mold or mildew on what you paint, since kitchens and bathrooms are high humidity areas. Enjoy your new units!

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