Alternator is charging, at 14.15 is that to low?

14.15 is perfect. I think your charging system is working fine if you've got 12.7 VDC on a bench test and 13.7 idle and 14.7 at higher rpm (as long as it doesn't go over 15.5 VDC).

AC output from the stator should be about 32-40 VAC at 2000 rpm, or roughly 16-20 VAC for each 1000 rpm. The actual AC output is not as important as checking to see that there is less than 5% difference between each of the pairs of leads.

I would also check the continuity of each of the pairs (with key off) to make sure that you have less than 1 ohm resistance (should be .1 to .3 ohms typically). While you're at it, check each lead for continuity to battery ground, it should be OL or OFL if using a digital multimeter, or several hundred K ohms or M ohms if not (there should be NO continuity to ground).

An intermittent miss at idle and a cough at high rpm sounds like a voltage problem in the ignition, I would check peak voltage (if you have a peak voltage adapter for your meter) both before and after the coil. I am assuming that you've already checked continuity of the wires leading to the coil and also the plug wires to make sure they are within spec (primary coil resistance less than one ohm, secondary coil winding resistance 5.5-7.5 K ohms, no corrosion to cause additional resistance). Your coil can work correctly under most situations and still fail a test, although I would suggest swapping coils to verify the intermittent miss before replacing a coil unless it failed any of the tests listed above.

alternator is fantastic. verify the two wires from the battery to the physique, the floor cord, and the starter, the nice and comfortable cord. in the event that they have a corrosion advance interior the cord they wont enable sufficient voltage to value the battery at 13-14.7volts. next, take a voltmeter and verify the dc voltage on the battery posts and then the submit connectors with the vehicle working and the advantageous submit off the battery. vehicle will save working, yet you will get a extra useful voltage verify of the alternator output whilst the vehicle is working however the battery cable is off. if decrease than 13 volts, replace the regulator if alternator is robust, you will possibly have an intensive to-ineffective cellular or undesirable terminal on the battery. if any corrosion is around a terminal replace the battery. additionally, verify the water point in the battery itself. it may say upkeep loose, yet yoiu can nevertheless get rid of the caps and fill up the water. low water prevents the battery protecting a value and needs to be checked periodically. fill up with distilled water, extremely than faucet water. the only reason they are asserting a battery is upkeep loose is to maintain human beings from getting the completed battery life through fact they flow undesirable in the event that they run out of water in the cells and the producers do no longer pick you to maintain a battery as long as you're prepared to purchase yet another till now you relatively pick to.

The alternator may need a rebuild as it is under factory range for specifications.Under load of accessories the charging system may not be quit up where it should be and may cause a lower intensity spark.The problem very well could be in the carburetor.If you have a CV carburetor that has a rubber o-ring around the jets and the o-ring(s) are bad it will miss fire because tinny air bubbles get by and cause a lean air/fuel mixture.Also check the compression as low compression will cause miss fire.Good luck I hope this helps.

Check the oil level in the engine. My motorcycle misses on the rear cylinder if the oil level is too high. If that's been the problem, then you're going need to clean the rear cylinder's spark plug too.

Ive seen lots of problems with stock harley ignitions missing, replaced with dyna s no more problems

14.15 volts should be fine as long as its not lower that 12