My hot water heater works but when I try to drain it, nothing comes out. Can I do any repair for free?

You need to replace your P&T valve immediately!!! A non working one can lead to a very violent explosion if your heater fails to the on condition. As for the bottom drain you have to relieve tank pressure and remove the valve and use something like a long screwdriver or the like to poke through in to the tank to get the sludge and sediment flowing then you may or may not get away with cleaning the valve as it may never seal again and might also have to be replaced. Both valves can be found at Ace Hardware and are not very expensive. Don't forget to clean and use teflon tape on the threads of the valves before re-assembling.

The T&P valve (Temp and Pressure release valve, located near the top of the heater, is a safety valve, so if operating normally might bleed a few drops, cough, or sputter a little and that's it.

On a gas water heater, the knob with pilot on it is the gas control, which you can adjust the heat level on, or turn it off, but again won't drain the water.

The drain valve is located near the bottom of the heater, usually a plastic valve with a 3/4 hose thread on the end, just like you'd hook up a garden hose to. If the floor drain is a convenient distance away (zip to ten feet), you can get a corresponding length of washing machine water supply hose to make it to the drain These will have the correct thread on either end.

If you open the drain valve and nothing comes out, the heater could be silted up, clogging the valve.

With the hose off, try poking a piece of wire like some from a wire coat hanger back through the valve (opened) into the tank.

Let's stop until you try that.

It seems all these landlords are the same, you call them to repair something and they give you a hard time because they don't want to spend any money. The same with our landlord if something has to be fix or looked at, they make you waste your whole day waiting and never show up not even a call. See if you didn't pay your rent on time how fast you'll hear from him. If you have a lease then look and see if there is a provision in it, telling you what he's reasonable for when making repairs because if it says he's reasonable for the water heater, then you can hold on to the rent money until such time it's fixed.

Looks like you got it. Just make sure you open the pop off valve so air can get into the water heater while your draining it. If not it will take 2 days for that thing to drain

what are you trying to do bro? leave the water on, lift the T and P valve lever and plenty of water will come out. leave the water on and open the drain valve, the pressure will usually start flushing the heater. once you have a good flow cut off the water, open the t and p valve and let the heater drain, however draining the heater wont help. all you are doing is loosing 40 gallons of water. all the sediment is on the bottom and once you flush the heater with the water on and the water gets clear that's it. you could unscrew the drain valve and maybe use a coat hanger to fish out some sediment. fish a while and turn on the water to flush some more. the easiest way to drain the heater is take off or loosen one line on top to break the vacuum inside. older t and p valves are prone to start leaking if you open them. anyway good luck with your project.

Well your average water heater only last about 10 to 12 years. So if you can't do a cheap repair yourself I would just get it replaced. It is not worth putting money into.

If it works why mess with it?The pressure relief valve is for when the pressure in the tank exceeds a preset value.If you opened the drain valve on the bottom and nothing came out ,its because the bottom is full of calcium deposits.Open the valve and stick a small wire up the drain and you might get it to start draining.Best option is -If it ain't broke don't fix it.

its full of calcium deposits or lime or rust..even if you have a water softener it still don't work that way...the pressure valve is there in cases it cant get out,,so it wont explode..maybe the valve is froze and when you turn it to open just the handel is moving...I WOULD DO ALL I COULD BEFORE YOU HAVE TO INVOLVE A PLUMBER BELIVE ME.....

here's what i do..i turn bother water lines off,,open pressure valve to relive any pressure.then close it..then open drain plug..and smack the side of it but don't poke it..take a flat thin long screwdriver and stick it up in drain plug move it around see how much then comes out..if going by a drip then its going to take aday..if steady maybe 2 hrs...but if you just cant and you can do it,,you can always pay a i call scavenger worker that do anything cheap..tell them you want it out...without getting water all over..4 people could carry that and put on truck or your yard for now..then get a new one..if your inclined you can hook it up..just sweating some copper..dam 10 yrs anit long..get one glass lined 20 yrs...

love it when people say " do all you can, don't call a plumber" not all plumbers are rip offs, have made more money from people stuffing things up than i do from normal plumbing. i know times are tough, but if you don't get the safety relief valve replaced then your tank will over pressurize and blow.you should give the safety valve a crack once every few months just to keep the mineral deposits out of it

Sorry, no. They wear out with time. You'll have to buy a new one.