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question about cold bluing/refinishing pistol slide?
ok, i recently picked up a kel-tec p11 that was used and i absolutely love the gun but, the previous owner used some sort of spray on finish (unsuccessfully) on the slide. i have removed all of the spray finish and about 80% of the bluing is still there.
I know i want a blued finish and dont want to pay to get it hot blued. i am currently looking at using the birchwood casey kit.has anyone used this before? and can i go over top of the bluing that is there?
please dont recommend duracoat or any other spray finish. i want bluing or maybe even parkerizing.
has anyone used any of the parking solution from brownells? i just want something that looks good and protects that isnt paint.
thanks in advance for any help
5 Answers
- nickdc1960Lv 71 decade agoFavorite Answer
I've tried my hand at cold bluing. I never could get the results that they show on the packaging!
From what I understand, the secret is to have the metal completely buffed to perfection and to then use alcohol to remove any residue of any sort of oils on the slide. With the cold bluing process, it's usually a matter of bluing and buffing and rebluing and rebuffing, until you get something that looks "ok".
- Anonymous5 years ago
Depends on the firearm and what you mean by rattle. My first 1911 sounded like a bunch of rocks in a metal box. It fired fine and worked flawlessly. On a glock though I would not trust it. It was a Military 1911 that had seen combat in WWII, Korea, Vietnam, and Desert Strom I. Operate on the safe side and head the warnings of the others and have it checked out by a gunsmith. Mr. B In Love with the 1911 45acp.
- sirbobby98121Lv 71 decade ago
I agree with nick on this. I have 'home-brewed' a parkerizing solution that turned out well, but the cold blue treatments have never been acceptable in appearance.
If you try to do this, cleanliness is important ...I use acetone as a degreaser.
Another thought is to heat the metal (gently) before you apply the blue.
Good luck.
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