What's a good MIG welder for me?

Don't buy cheap now and regret it later. A good welder is something that you will have and use for the next 30 years, and may need a part for here or there 20 years from now. The off brand ones you might not be able to get a part for then.

It's alittle pricy to get everything setup that you need, but once you do you will wonder how you ever lived without one.

Yes a gas mig 110 volt unit will do anything you will need to do. Do not get a gassless wire feed welder that uses just flux core wire. They are pure junk.

I myself have a hobart handler 140 amp 110 volt mig and love it. I weld everything from sheet metal, car bodies, roll cages (.134" thick), frames, ladder racks, etc with it.

I recommed a Hobart or Miller welder. The going price for the hobart handler 140 now is around $500-$550

Then you will need your sheilding gas bottle. You want 75/25% mix argon/C02.

You can rent or buy the bottle, and you can get any size you want. I recommed atleast an 80 cu. ft bottle though

When I 1st got my MIG, I rented a 140 cu ft. bottle. My local gas supplier rented the bottles for $5 a mo, with a 6 mo min contract. The gas fill on bottle was $33 (That was like 6 years ago)

After having rented the bottle for a year I was in a better spot funds wise so I just bought a 140 cu ft. bottle for $160

Buy an auto darkening welding mask.. They are the best thing since sliced bread. The $40-50 harbor freight one is perfect for your needs.

Leather welding gloves.. Again harbor freight for those. A pack of 3 pairs for like $10

You will need a welding cart, but most people builds their own. For alot its their 1st welding project. I built my own from an old junked large bird cage that was made from 1"x1" square tube., harbor freight rear wheels and front casters, an old washing machine side for the bottom of cart for welder to sit on, etc.

I buy the larger 10 lb spools of solid welding wire rather than the small 1 or 2 lb rolls.

Cutting and grinding tools.. I could on for days about these. The must haves IMO are

4.5" angle grinder.. Cheap ones will burn out fast. Buy nothing less than a black and decker.. Get a Dewalt if you can. I got my new dewalt on sale around christmas for $40

Get you some cut off wheels, grinding wheels, and wire wheels for it.

This will be used ALOT to prep surface, clean paint, rust, etc off, and can also be used to cut with.

Recep. saw (sawzall). I mostly use my dewalt 18 volt cordless. The best deal I found on metal blades is from maxtool.com 10 pack for $11

12" or 14" Chop saw if you can swing it.

I also use air 3" cut off tool, and sheet metal nibblers.

I also use an oxy/fuel torch to cut heavier steel with

You will also need ways to hold the metal together during fitup and so you can get a tack weld on the parts.

Like welding magnets (harbor freight has best prices on those)

Vise grips in diff sizes and shapes

Clamps of all shapes and sizes. C clamps, bar clamps, pipe clamps, quick clamps, spring clamps, etc.

Experienced welders make it look a lot easier than it is.

Here's what I'd recommend. Sign up for a welding class at a local trade school in your area. If you like it and you think you'd be good at welding, THEN consider buying a welder. don't invest in a welder without any experience in actual welding.

A good welding machine that will actually do what you want it to, is a really big investment...only to discover that you don't have the patience

Most clothes dryers and electric ovens run from 220 V. If your oven has a 220 plug you can buy a 220 extension cord and run it out the window.

110 volt welders are not worth your time and money. trust me on this.

That gas-less flux core crap is not worth your time either. People who tell you otherwise don't really know their business. Gas-less flux core is the worst welding process ever invented. You'd have to be insane to accept welds like this:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5066149103_e01...

http://shdesigns.org/Welding/arcwelds.jpg

A general rule of thumb. Don't MIG weld anything thicker then 1/8" unless you have a machine with at least 250 amps. Those run in the range of $1,600-$2,000

It's a poorly known fact that MIG welding requires 50-100% more current to weld the same thickness as stick welding. For example, you can weld 1/4" material and up with 100-130 amps with a stick welder. You'd need. 190-250 amps with MIG to get good penetration on 1/4". Most manufacturers exaggerate the realistic thickness capabilities of their machines by 50% or more. they assume the current requirements for MIG and stick are the same. Don't pay any attention to manufacturers claims. Assume you won't be able to MIG weld over 1/8"

1

Best Mig Welder

Lincoln Pro Mig 140

hi, i have a 110 lincoln flux core mig welder. i have had it for 10 years and in the last 3 i have used it every day. i do car body work, and lots of other stuff. anything under 1/8th inch im confident i can weld with it as long as its not a high stress part. not sure id weld a frame with it, for that id use an arc welder.

things i find i use when welding, vice grips, a grinder to clean up whatever im going to weld, metal shears to cut thin metal, a hammer, good gloves, ear plugs when welding overhead (to keep sparks out of my ears), and a auto darkening helmet. i highly recommend an auto darkening helmet. they can be found for less than $100.

flux core works ok for me because i just buy a roll of flux core wire, and weld. but you cant get very thin wire like you can with a gas mig so its not ideal for body work, it takes more heat to melt the thick wire so you end up heat warping body work if your not very carefull. and flux makes dirty splattery welds. i can get by doing body work fine though.

the lincoln flux mig hasnt given me any problems yet. i paid about $600 for it a long time ago when they where a lot more expensive. you can get one for next to nothing used. i paid $200 for my auto darkening mask, you can find a cheaper one. i paid $100 for the vice grips, pliers, gloves, hammer, grinder ect. they are easy to find cheap. try a second hand store or pawn shop for grinders and hammers ect. you may even find a good welder there. ive seen small arc welders at second hand tool stores for $50 that looked brand new.

once you have a welder youll never know how you did without it.

A lot of good answers here. I would recommend the thermal arc 181.

I have a lincoln pro mig 140. I love it. I do wish that I had a 220 machine as I have out grown it. No worries as I have a lincoln tombstone for thicker stuff. Lincoln, miller/hobart, thermal arc. all make good machines. I have some friends that have the campbell hausfield and northern tool and eastwood migs. These are offshore units but work fine.

Here are a few links.

http://weldingweb.com/

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/equipment/mig...

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/onephase.p...

http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/

http://thermadyne.com/Shop%20Talk/Thermal%20Arc/sh...

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RE:

What's a good MIG welder for me?

I always find myself saying "I wish you could glue metal together" and I've paid someone handsomely for 5 minutes of welding work on several occasions.So, I've decided to teach myself to weld. I've done some research and I'm pretty handy, so I think it will be doable. ...

Everyone just about covered it, and I prefer the miller 110V or the lincoln welder. I have had my Miller longer then my friend has had his Lincoln welder though. I have heard if you change the electrical cord on the Miller to a heavier one will make it last longer, but I have never gotten around to changing my cord and it has been going "G" twenty years, always use a heavy duty extension cord if needed.

I do auto body and a 220V mig welder is over kill for auto body repair, the 110V mig welder will do anything for me including frames.

I use CO2 gas and keep the flux core wire around for like welding rusty exhaust pipes and emergencies. The flux core has way too much splatter.

I don't have a welding blanket so I wet down a blanket and lay it over things to keep from burning them, or to cover glass sometimes I cover the glass with masking paper and spray the paper with water, or put hand with glove on around the nozzle as a barrier to block the sparks from flying around.

They do make panel adhesive, so you can glue sheet metal together. but it has gotten too expensive so I don't use it that often..

Millers are good.

You will need at least "Sleeves" if not full leathers, hood, welders gloves, spare covers. I use a #9 lens, with a flip up and larger opening.

Needle nose pliers, tip dip, spare tips and at least one spare cone.

Don't forget a fire extinguisher and read up on fire safety. Welding (hot work) is not something to do and just walk away from! You need to plan time in for cleaning the area before welding as well as some time after welding just to make sure you don't start a fire. It is advisable to have some one else in the area. I have caught my cloths on fire and did not know it when it happened.

A side grinder (small one).

Now how many other fab tools (saws, sheet metal brakes) depends on how deep your pocket book is, size of shop and scope of work.

I use a lot of Vise Grips for jigging. Pony clamps are another popular tool with me. It just depends on how resourceful you are and the scope of the job.

I have welded for a living and used everything from fuel gas to arch welding. Never done TIG or electron beam welding. I use flux core at home because I hate messing with bottles. The purge gas presents the problem of needing refills as well as specific safety issues. Welding with out proper ventilation is enough of a risk and argon mixtures are gravity seeking. So it is very possible to be working and pass out (and maybe die) due to lack of oxygen. So don't work alone, I have stated the two reasons for saying this but I will repeat them:

1. Fire hazard (it is easy to not know there has been a fire started when the hood is down).

2. Health (if you do pass out due to lack of oxygen some one needs to be there to get you to fresh air).