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Heating question for Ford Ranger.?

I have a 3.0 v6 2000 Ford ranger. My heat will not blow warm air. Sometimes when I first crank it up I'll get warm air until my motor heats up, then it cools off and stays off! Both the in/out lines that go to my heater core are hot and I'm not getting foggy Windows or coolant on the floor. I had a hole in my radiator and replaced it. My thermostat seems to be working right, after about ten minutes of driving it reaches midway up and stops. When I turn off my air/heat sometimes I hear a whooping sound like someone is inside my dash making the sound, but I know there is no air in the system. What is up?

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  • 9 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    1996 through 2001 Explorers/Mountaineers and 1998 through more recent model Rangers have a known problem with the blend door actuator inside the dash just behind the glove box door. I had this issue on my 2003 Ranger Edge. Here's a link to an issue I had with the actuator itself.

    http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/f3/2003-ran...

    If/when you get your old actuator out of there reconnect it while it is out and turn your ignition to the ON position and move the temperature knob around slowly. If the D-shaped shaft pin doesn't move then the actuator is bad. The new one will move when connected outside of the dash. You'll see in that link in one picture you'll need a mirror to see the D-shaped hole. If yours look like it does in the pic then your blend door isn't broken which is a great thing.

    Source(s): 2003 Ranger Edge 3.0L owner
  • Anonymous
    5 years ago

    If the temp gauge reaches half way, the thermostat is working ok, just feel the heater hoses before and after the heater control valve. If the heater hoses are both hot where they go into the dash, the heater control valve is working ok ( it only shuts off the water in max a/c mode ). If all that is ok, the problem is in the dash. The Expeditions and F-150's are bad about the blend door breaking, but it is fairly rare on the Ranger/Explorer, so look behind the glovebox for a small square box on top of the heater case with a wire connector plugged into it. Look with a flashlite between the blend door actuator and the case, and with the key on, turn the temp knob. You should be able to see the shaft turning right and left when you move the knob. If it doesn't move, pop the actuator off and replace it. Some are a press on design, and some screw on, you'll just have to look and see which type you have.

  • 9 years ago

    This vehicle has a bad time with restricted heater cores! Try to backflush the heater core, and recheck operation.

    NOTE: It is often useful when diagnosing heater problems to have a clear piece of 5/8" vinyl tubing, as this helps in determining if coolant is flowing through the heater core. To replace the BDA (blend door actuator) calls for 6.3 hours to R & R the dash!

    Source(s): 28 Year Master, L-1 Technician
  • 9 years ago

    IF, and only IF both heater hoses are hot, then you have a problem with your blend air door or the servo that controls it...

    sounds like it's partially open to both the heater core and the evaporator core

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  • 9 years ago

    Turn your hot/cold knob both ways. if you dont hear the blend doors turning, closing or opening, most likely its a blend door issue, not a heater core issue.

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