Considering a Leo Gecko?

So you are trying to decide on a reptile for your next pet?

This article might help you make all around decision to choose one.

http://petskeepersguide.com/how-to-choose-a-reptil...

Sand is not a naturalistic look for leopard geckos. They do live in the desert, but not a sandy one. It is more of hard packed, dry earth. That being said, you should not use any sort of loose substrate because there will be a high chance for impaction. Even calcium sand and sands that claim will not lead to impaction, actually do. You can always use paper towels, reptile carpet, or tiles.

For heat, you need either a UTH or heat lamp, or both. For leopard geckos you need a hot side and cool side of the tank for temperature regulation. The cool side should be around 75 (no heat source required unless your house is regularly cold), and the hot side should be around 90. UTH's are the easiest method to keep these temps but some people do choose to use heat lamps (must use dark colored bulbs..red, deep blue, etc).

"Gutloading" means just feeding the crickets food that is high in nutrition and vitamins so that they are passed to your leopard gecko (since crickets are not naturally high in much vitamins). This can be achieved by feeding the crickets fruits or purchasing special cricket gut loader which is available at most pet stores. And yes, you should be dusting your crickets with calcium plus D3. D3 can be overdosed, so if you wish to leave a small dish of calcium in your gecko's tank, then it should just be calcium and no D3 (they cannot overdose on calcium).

Not too familiar with the morphs, so thats all I got lol.

Please do't even use ANY kind of sand, no matter what the pet stores say. Leopard geckos need a heat lamp, and a heat mat. the tanks warm side should be 85-90F, and the cool side should be 70-80F. Gut loading is when you feed the bugs before you feed the critter the bugs. Read about it on my website, leopard geckos- Feeders. Supplements are very frustrating, but they must be done right. So multi vitamin once per week. Calcium with D3 2-3 times per week. And leave an easy access bowl of calcium without D3 in the cage at all times. Yes D3 can mecome a toxicity if over-used. Blizzards can usually only be found at reptile shows and expos. Try to find one near you.

Please visit this site: http://happyreptiles.com/leopard-gecko-care-sheets... If you were able to make use of the information, thank me by becoming a user.

My turn to answer one! I've had several leos and I just used paper towels, it makes it easier for clean up and they can't swallow any while feeding. DO NOT USE SAND!!! It will clog their digestive systems and could possibly kill them, that's how my first one died, don't use it.

When you feed them you can use meal worms, crickets, locusts, wax worms, and silk worms. Give them fresh water daily as well. Here is a list of items you might need for housing them...

Hides

Leopard Geckos need somewhere to hide. If there are no adequate places for them to hide they can become stressed. Hides can be made from anything from margarine tubs to coconut shells.

Moist Boxes

All of our Geckos have a moist box kept in their home at all times, during the day they tend to sleep in there. Moist hides are particularly important during shedding times to help remove their skin.

Heating/Temperature

Heating and Temperature are very important to the health of you Leopard Geckos.Leopard Geckos need heat to thermo-regulate, as they do not produce their own body heat internally. They need an external heat source to help them digest their food as well as regulate other bodily functions. Leopard geckos obtain their heat through their underside so the best source of heat is a heat-mat placed under either the substrate or under the tank itself. The mat needs to cover between half or 1/3 of the bottom of the enclosure. The temperature of the floor of your enclosure where the geckos bask should read between 84-88 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lighting

Leopard Geckos do not need artificial lighting or UV light, which some reptiles do require, but they do need to know whether it is day or night. In our vivariums we have lights to help heat their enclosure. Depending on the size of your viv determines the wattage of the bulb needed. We have our lights on a timer. In the room where our reptiles live we have a red bulb as they cannot detect it, and we can observe them during the night without disturbing them.

Substrate

There are different substrates available on the market today. Some substrates can cause impaction when eaten. Hatchlings and young Geckos should be kept on kitchen roll. Once they are big enough, around 6 inch in length, they can be moved on to something else. I would recommend fine sand if you want to use sand at all, if not just stick with some of the other substrates I listed.

I hope this helped! (I'll give you more tips on these, keep answering about mis pythons ;)

horoscopes pertain to people , not lizards , getin a leo gecko is the same as getin a tauris gecko