Full aluminum bedded stocks?

I've skim bedded both my aluminum frame stocks, but haven't noticed a difference before vs. after. That being said, it won't hurt to do it and it may eek out a modicum of extra performance.

If you are trying to squeeze every last bit of consistency out of this rifle that you possibly can, you still probably want to bed the action and chamber. The full-length aluminum bedding block will make the stock very nice and rigid, but if the fitment isn't perfect then there is still the potential for inconsistent movement of the action relative to the stock during firing, which can result in inconsistent barrel harmonics and groups that are not "all they could be". For a hunting rifle, no it isn't really needed. For a rifle that you are going totally insane over and want it to shoot as well as it possibly can... Well, then you should probably set the barreled action in the stock, develop a load for maximum accuracy and then determine whether you stand to gain anything by bedding it. If it shoots 1/4 MOA without the bedded action then you obviously don't need to bed it and would be a real fool to change anything about what you're doing. If it shoots about 7/8 MOA, that's still pretty good but you may be able to significantly improve the performance by bedding the action and chamber.

Ummm....... do you know what bedding blocks are? They are pieces of aluminum that are inserted permently into a stock so it fits super close to the flat surfaces of the intended receiver. The big 'idea' is that it will only take a few drops of fiberglass resin or resin + glass fibers to fill the small gap. You will still need to apply release agent ortherwise you will never, ever, separate that stock from the receiver again. Bottom line - you will still need a Accu-Bed kit..... although you can still use fiberglass and resin from Home Depot they wont have the blue release agent.

Do you reload? Handloading for a rifle will add undreamed of accuracy that a glass bed job wont.

Got a muzzle brake? I have a 223 that typically fires 1.5" groups with match ammo at 200yds. Toss on a muzzle break - that groups drops to .75". Remove the muzzle brake and toss on a 223 suppressor - it makes tiny little shamrock groups - not quite putting the bullet in the same hole but nearly close to that.

Hanging your hat on a McMillian stock is not a good idea. It's like eating sugary cereal in the monring - 'part' of a ballanced breakfast but unless you have the eggs, bacon and glass of milk it's not a complete breakfast.

You should practice bedding a few rifles before doing your favorite. Especially if you are inexpeienced working with small batches of resin. Too much hardner and it sets too quick or becomes brittle and cracks in a few days/weeks. Not enough hardner or too much resin and it stays sticky, tacky, or worse it looks hard but never quite gets there and never does the job right. And when you start to add the colors from the kit - that tosses in a new issue/variable into the mix.

Glacierwolf said everything I would have said and probably a bit more.

I was amazed to see that he received the usual "thumbs down" from some nitwit for an answer that absolutely squares with my 40+ years of experience as a match shooter and an occasional amateur riflesmith who has bedded M1s, Remington 700s and Winchester M70s. Go figger the crowd on Y! Answers!

The glass bedding helps keep moisture out of the action and stock; if you only shoot on rain free days and fair weather it would not help much, but if you shoot in all weather conditions I would suggest you really think about it. A little moisture in the wrong place can really mess things up.