When reloading, how clean do you get the primer pocket?

I do a 3 step process. For the primer pocket alone, I first take a small drill bit. Stick it in the case mouth, set it where I "feel" the primer flash hole, and turn it carefully and smoothly to de- burr the flash hole INSIDE the case. There IS ALWAYS a burr.

Second I use a primer pocket cleaner. RCBS and others make them. A small cutter that has 2 sizes. 1 large primer pocket size, and 1 small primer pocket size. Remove the carbon build up.

Finally I use a primer pocket "Uniformer" this cuts all the primer pockets to a uniform depth.

This procedure as with the others are used, and are the reason handloads offer the ability to make much better loads then factory loads. It is the sum of many dimensions to make a batch of "perfect" cases. The primer pocket is really VERY critical, to accuracy.

Like so many things, the answer is "it depends." I always clean primer pockets for rifle cartridges for use in competition, which I load on a single stage press. Several posts here describe good methods. For pistol ammo that will be used for informal shooting or competition such as pins that does not require gilt-edged accuracy, I load on a progressive press and don't worry about the primer pocket. No way am I going to try to clean the pocket after depriming on a progressive press. I don't know anyone who does.

The biggest reason to clean the primer pocket is to guarantee consistent ignition. Crud in the bottom of the pocket can prevent the primer from seating all the way (very bad in revolvers) and sometimes will cushion the blow of the firing pin enough to cause inconsistent ignition from round to round, which hurts accuracy although it's unlikely to be a safety issue.

That primer pocket looks clean enough to me. Unless you are a benchrest competition shooter, just a simple cleaning with a primer pocket cleaning tool (or flat end of a small screwdriver) will do the trick. Knock on wood - but I have never ever had a misfire of any kind, and I have loaded thousands of rounds of metalic rifle and pistol cases over 30 plus years of handloading.

I prep my brass in the following steps, a tumble in stainless media, transfer to a quick tumble in walnut shell, this in turn forces me or my helper to inspect each case for a blockage in the flash hole. I have several old deprimer tips that I use to clear the hole with and check for burrs. Next I have several of the primer pocket brushes in different diameters; I chuck one up in the old black and decker 12 volt cordless and give them a quick spin in the primer pocket. From there they either go into storage blocks or case holders, or the autoloader hopper for a run.

I used to leave my cases like your picture but I had a round of 40 caliber pistol ammo detonate about 4 mm out of battery. The case ruptured and the S&W didn't appreciate the experience. What I found was I had debris and a small sliver of brass lodge under the edge of a primer and was almost 72 thousands past the level of the base of the case. The primer had a edge ding to it and it appears that as it was going into the chamber the primer detonated. Since then I make sure there clean and clear.

The reason your experts on both sides do it differently is because its not cast in stone that it has to be done a certain way. A good reloading manual will explain primer pocket cleaning.

The case in your photo is clean enough for hunting ammo. Jin's ultrasonic cleaning method is good, or you can use a primer pocket cleaner. Some anal retentive people go to extreme lengths to clean and de-burr the primer pocket but for hunting ammo a cursory cleaning is good enough.

I use one like this:

RCBS,Lee,Hornady all have primer pocket cleaner brushes that only take a couple seconds to use. Main point of cleaning the primer pocket is to get right seating depth and so they sit "flat",sometimes direct physical cleaning works better than the media tumblers. An other aspect of a clean pocket lets you ensure the flash hole isn't messed up. I've never relied on the tumbler for my pockets, I hit them with the brush first.

Well, considering the fact that there is such a thing as is actually called a "primer pocket cleaning tool", and the secondary fact that they are basically the cheapest reloading tool I know of, clocking in at under $3, I'd recommend using that.

I like to batch load. To me it's safer as your cases get inspected more often (in my opinion). When I clean cases I inspect them as they come out of tumbling. If it doesn't look good it goes in for another cleaning. If it's clean it gets primed using a Lee Auto Prime tool. After priming I make sure the primer is well seated and that it's not proud. I have found that I get 3 to 4 case loadings before I have to worry about cleaning primer pockets.

I use a cleaner made from an old split case. Brass-on-brass.

And no, I don't worry a lot about it for hunting, defensive, or plinking cartridges. So long as the primer seats properly it won't make much difference. You only need to obsess if you're also turning the necks on the other end, for precision target work.

I use case cleaner, and it cleans the case and primer pocket.