How to wire lights electric bicycle?

First wire a fuseholder/breaker next to the battery +ve terminal. 5 amps will be more than enough for all the lights, and a 20 watt converter will comfortably supply all the rear lights. Filament lights -rear,stop and indicator would be no more than 30watts and LEDs are at least 3 times more efficient.

The 5 wires will be the return (-ve) for all lights and feeds for rear, stop and 2 indicators. While you could use a metal frame for the return I think it makes more sense to run a tough 5 -core flex to the rear light. At some point, probably in the battery box, you will have to connect wires from the switches to wires going to the fuse and to the rear light assembly. I don't think this is an easy job for someone with little or no electrical experience. I recommend you pay an auto electrician to do the wiring.

You will need:

1.Fuseholder or breaker, 5 amp. if a fuse, 5 amp rating.

2. 48/12volt converter.20 watt or 1.8Amp/12 volt output minimum.

3. 5 amp switch for head & tail lights

4. 5 amp switch for brake light

5. 3-way switch for indicators (Left/off/Right)

6. Connecting cable, extra flexible best. Minimum 2 amp rating.

7. connectors. Could be crimped insulated type or connector block inside plastic box.

Not a simple wiring job, recommend you pay an auto electrician to avoid pain. Most of the values given are over-rated, but with electrical equipment it is generally better to buy components rated at double the intended load.

Oh boy...

1) that motor requires a controller (and usually also a display) to run. Connecting it directly to a battery will acomplish not much - at the most, you'll burn out the motor instantly

2) your 12 Ah battery is not going to get you much - the motor will draw around 20 Amps, which will drain that battery in maybe 20 minutes - IF (and that's a big IF) that battery can even supply that current.

3) That headlight shoould work directly from your battery

4) The converter should be ample for the LED lights - but in order to use the flashers, you'll also need a controller ("flasher relay") for the flashers, otherwise, they'll be permanently either on or off. And that controller/relay must be specified as suitable for LEDs.

5) how many flashers you put ther is entirely up to you

6) using the frame of the bike (as in "bicycle") as ground path is in general not a good idee, for various reasons. It may work in some special cases, but will fail miserably (and, in the case of the motor, possibly catastrophically) in others

First, a bit of mathematics. Your 48V 750W motor may run at up to 16 amps, meaning that your battery will last less than an hour at full chat. The good news is that the headlight is likely to consume less than 1 amp, so it won't make much difference. I see nothing wrong in using a DC-DC converter to run 12 volt lights, and your choice is more than capable. However, I would fuse everything you add as accessories: fuse between battery and headlight switch; fuse between battery and converter; fuse between converter and switch(es) and 12V light(s). The battery will not take kindly to being overloaded by a short circuit.

Pick the first one 48V head light assembly is the best choice, it was made of LED , therefore, current is very small, could be just 0.1A. Hook its terminals directly to the 48V battery via a switch shall do.

Hi so a great lack of drive power is your problem as switch mode power supplies consume more power than they can deliver. so it will be glimmering lights and slow motor., if it turns at all.