avalentin911

I currently have student loans and I am trying to do more than the minimum amount each month. we are looking into buying a home within next 6 months. I wanted to pay extra for my school loans now but I am wandering if I should hold off until after i get the mortgage loan to show greater assets? my DTI will still be under 36% back end. credit score 770. We are planning to do 20% down, how important are remaining assets to these lenders? does it just help with loan acceptance and or interest rate or just ability to pay back the loan for them? thanks

How do they calculate gross monthly income do they take annual gross and divide by 12 or do they look at total of 2 paystubs so (28 days cycle of work period)? Do they just do 160 hours x the amount paid per hour ( if doing 40 hours per week). In other words do they look at overtime or just regular hours worked?

I have student loans and I am debating between paying $3,000 for 10 years at a rate of 3.06% or to do $2,200 for 15 years at rate of 3.41%. I believe my mortagage payment estimate with loan and interest at about $1660, home insurance $200/mo, property tax $400/month so total home expenses at around $2260/month. My monthly gross is around $12,000 and I know they want DTI to be at 36% or less if that is the case I have to do the student loan refinance rate of 3.41% at $2,200 for 15 years. I am really interested in doing the $3,000 for 10 years at rate of 3.06% however the DTI back end would be at around 43%. how important is this DTI? would keeping it at 36% just give me better interest rate on the home and loan acceptance and more loan options offers?  Thanks

If I put 20% down can I still get a home loan with 6 hard inquiries mostly from refinancing school loans? Are there lenders out there willing to deal with these inquiries or no?

I am planning to buy a house in a couple of months I know they look at credit card monthly payments. Mine usually average around $1500 a month. I am wondering if I should start paying cash so that the credit card doesn't show up on they calculate the loan for a mortgage that I can afford for now. I have been using credit cards to get points/rewards but I realize that I should probably stop and resume until after the house is purchased. My credit utilization is good at 3% but I can afford to pay cash for now. Or does it not matter at this point because maybe they look 2 years back for credit card monthly usage?

Within the past 12 months I refinanced my school loan maybe about 6 times each time while getting a better rate. I started at 4.25% now down to 3.05% how does it affect purchasing a home in terms of credit history? Also I have been doing the Covid 19 natural disaster forbearance past 6 months mostly to increase my checking account for a down payment of a house /(emergency savings). Would this hurt my application? My credit score is excellent now

I am debating if its better to do 5% roth or just do traditional and do more like 8% or more. I only ask because of the compound and taxes difference, which is better in long run? my manager said he is doing traditional at 10% he said it will grow faster and that he doesn't mind getting 30% of it cut at retirement because the compounding made it grow so big. I know with the Roth the earned interest is yours to keep. let me know your experience and knowledge. Thanks

i have about $325K loan from graduate schools. I have refinanced about 5 times in less than a year to get better rates. I started at 4.25% (10 year fixed) then 4.10% to 4.04% to now 3.98%. I just got approved this week for 3.55% for 10 year fixed, however I was also offered 4.0% fixed for 20 years (this rate dropped a lot usually near 5%). the 10 year vs 20 year rate usually differ by 1% but now it less than 0.5% difference.

In summary, monthly interest difference is $128, Monthly payment difference is $1230 (paying $3270 vs $2040$ per month).

I looking for a 10 year student loan refinance for grad school loans at $323k. I currently have a fixed rate of 10 yrs at 3.98% with citizens one, I checked my rate with earnest and they offer 3.75% fixed and 3.42% variable. I was wandering if variable is worth the risk and the extra 0.33% savings during COVID pandemic time. Or is it not worth the risk since its only worth it if savings greater than 1%? i do believe that I will get it paid in 10 years at least 7 years minimum. I don't know if rates will go up significantly this decade. Any input would help.

at 3.75%: monthly payment $3,232, interest monthly $1,009 with Principal $2222

total cost: $387,837 total interest: $64,837

at 3.42%: monthly payment $3,181, interest monthly $920 with principal $2,261

total cost: $381,830 total interest: $58,830

I get a big discount for BMW through corporate employee but I wander if Tesla is still worth it more? I only plan to use it just for work which is 30 miles round trip 5 days a week so 150 miles. The BMW i3 does about 153 miles I think. It would be nice to work with a single drive. Not sure how AC would use up the mileage. Let me know.

I went from 40 hours to 36 hours a week. I lost 4 hours of pay each week. My lost in gross pay each week is about $291.84. I am not sure if I answered the questions correctly but in the end it said weekly benefit amount $450 and claim balance $11,700 (for 26 weeks). I am just concerned about being overpaid by them i am not sure how this works. I am still working. My hours got cut due to COVID two weeks ago. I work in healthcare. There was a question about the last day I work and the future date i would be working (2 days apart), so does this system know that I am doing partial unemployment. There wasn't any question about partial unemployment, it seems like the questions were mostly for full employment. I did ask for gross every quarter starting with last year 2019. Is partial unemployment claim a separate application or are they all the same? Thanks for any input

If the parents are deceased and the heir takes over and does a probate via affidavit real property small value do they have to pay back taxes during the application affidavit process or is it separate thing/process if they have some outstanding fees past due for 1 year. Or do you have to pay back taxes first in order to do this kind of probate. anyone have any experience in this field. I would appreciate any links or website for more information. thanks

I have been told I will lose 4 hours per week starting week of May 17 going forward it’s temporary. Is 4 hours loss enough to do unemployment I would go from 40 to 36 hours per week still full time.

I am essential employee as a pharmacist my hours are the same but I am doing less overtime per week instead of 1 hour it’s now 20 minutes due to less volume. I am just wandering if it’s a good time to save 3 months worth of monthly payment as backup. Monthly payments are $3408 and interest is about $1100 per month. Perhaps by then there will be a better interest rate?

I bought them cheap but I also didn t let my wife know about the purchase. I am the only one working full time i put in about $4500 in stocks including Disney average shares of 19 carnival, Norwegian, delta, united, jet blue, etc. I am wondering if I should just sell I feel like I keep just checking robinhood on a daily basis I feel like its unhealthy. I also know savings account like wealthfront only offer 0.26% annual interest. Besides that I only have savings of about $7k with $320k student loans from pharmacy school at 4.1% 10 years. I was told to keep these stocks for 2 years to see something.

I currently have long term disability providing 60% income protection at $51 per paycheck every 2 weeks after taxes. My work is now introducing individual disability insurance for $11.24 per paycheck for an extra 7% of income protection (total 67%) and 100 % income protection for catastrophic events (loss of sight, speech, hearing, loss of 2 limbs). I don't know if this is a good deal or not or essential coverage? I am a pharmacist and my gross income is around 160k. I did the math for the coverage compared to long term if it's an extra 7% it shouldn't cost me more than $5.95 but i understand the extra cost is due to the catastrophic part. For $13.84 it would include cost of inflation not less than 2% no more than 7% annual basis. They say I can take this insurance with whichever company I work for. Anyone have this insurance or is familiar with it? I only have one week to decide to opt in or opt out

I have pharmacy schools loans for about $320K i just refinanced down to 3.88% for 10 years. I was wandering if I had extra money should I make extra payments on school loan or buy stock now that they are cheap (discount price)? I would assume that the stock would bring back more than 3.88% back. Let me know

My employer matches up to 5% but every time I log in and contribute and do 5% matching I keep losing money. I am wandering if I should pause my contribution until it dies down in the summer? Or should I still contribute 5% like I have always have no matter what happens in the economy?

I got a quote from citizens one for 4.13% for 10 years in addition (through my work i get an additional $1000 towards principal) with their credit card my rate would go down to 3.88%. My total loan is around $323k for undergrad plus grad pharmacy school combined. I think I save about $28 per month on interest. I don't have to use the credit card just keep it active but its one more card to carry.

Otherwise right now through my work my school loans is through Laurel Road at 4.10% for 9 years and 9 months.

I am 30 and have 2 kids age 3 and 5, I just refinanced my school loans again now down to 4.1% from a previous 4.25% 10 year loan. We want to buy a house but we agreed that the school loans have to be paid off first. From having kids, should I delay/stop/freeze 401k to speed up the process or still continue my 5% 401K contribution which the company also matches and take a bit longer to pay off school loans (~1-2 years longer maybe).