JJ

I'm getting tons of spam with no opt-out options on them. I've started putting their address in the block email section, but now it's full (500 limit). Is there anything else that can be done to stop, or at least block these idiots?

In an electric stove (220 V), does one of the 110 lines feed the top burners while the other feeds the oven? I'm hooking up a power transfer switch for an electric generator but don't want to power the oven... just the burners.

I've installed a fair amount of this stuff behind tub-surrounds & showers. I generally use a jig saw with a carbide blade, which promptly goes dull. Any experienced tile workers out there find a better way?

I've been trying to solve a drain problem for quite some time.

Single story apartment. The toilet backs up on occasion, almost to overflow, & the kitchen & sink drains run very slowly. I've put sulfuric acid down the drains twice, once directly into the line beyond the trap. I've snaked the toilet & the roof vents & found no blockage. Finally I snaked the main sewage line but found nothing.

It behaves like a vent problem but today I was going to install an under-the-sink vent & noticed something. While I had the trap off in the kitchen (which allowed plenty of air available for drainage), the bathroom sink drain was still sluggish. So I ruled out a vent problem - for now. I'm out of ideas! Talk to me.

I recently re-plumbed a side-by-side 4-plex. I'm refering to the main lines under the bldg. I built a diverter out of Schedule 40 with 4 seperate shut-offs & a main shut-off valve. I mistakenly bought regular pvc (200 psi) instead of Schedule 40 for the lines... which I didn't realize until I'd already started running my lines & glueing them together. So my question is... is the 200 psi stuff adequate? I don't want to have to re-do the job 5 yrs. from now! The lines currently have 50 - 60 lbs. of pressure inside from the pressure tank. The crawl space is well insulated & the lines run on the ground (dirt floor) so I'm not real concerned about freezing. I guess it's more of a durability concern here than anything else. Opinions?

That nylon material they make shoelaces out of is too slippery. I've tried round ones, I've tried flat ones. The damn things are just too slippery & won't bind on themselves. Has anyone out there notices this? Found any solutions?

Most of them come with some type of guage on them but are they accurate? Nothing under pressure stays that way indefinitely. Any good answers out there?

I have a small stack of wormy chestnut lumber. Approx. 6" wide, various lengths from about 2' to 5'. Just want to get an idea of what I might get for it. What could I expect per board foot? I'd say there's enough to make a nice sized cabinet.